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Discussion Starter #1
So... going to pick a brand new DL650 tomorrow.

I have been driving cars for the last 30 years, but after hiring a scooter on a vacation in Spain, I feel for it.

Being 2m tall (something like 6'6 I think), I am quite limited on what to chose as most bikes simply are to small for me. I have been test driving BMW F700gs, Honda ST1300, Suzuki DL650. I was also sitting on a 1200GSA, Honda Africa Twin which are also quite big, But test driving the DL650 made certain that I wanted it. Easy handling, cost efficient, fun bike.

As this is a new bike, I want to break it in correctly. Any recommandations for this? Test driving it was a bit has for me to figure out which RPM's the bike likes as there are quite a lot of noise driving a bike compared to driving a car.

Speaking of noise. Wind noise is quite much on this bike being 2m tall. Any recommandations for a windscreen that is optimal for us tall riders on a DL650?

The bike comes as standard. I would like decent but inexpensive topbox, panniers and what else would be generel needed for an MC. What can you recommend, and where to buy (in EU)?

Is this an attractive bike for thieves? I mean... how well should I guard it?

Anything else to recommend for a Newbee on a DL650?

Regards, Lars.
 

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Hello and welcome to the group!

The manual has breakin procedures if I recall. Just follow them.

Most people replace the OEM windscreen. I went wit the Givi Airflow and it was a big improvement.

I went cheap for the side cases, but I LOVE them, they are the Givi E22, or the Kappa K22n. Small top loading boxes that hold all the basics. I also went with a E460 Givi top case and keyed all three boxes alike for one key access.

I don't believe the DL650 is a high theft bike, but I'm not sure in the EU.

Tips; install an H4 wiring harness from Eastern Beaver, add heated grips and handguards, and enjoy!
 

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As a tall guy I can relate, a set of risers and a set of Richland Rick's drop peg mounts will work wonders on the 650.
 

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You should be fine with your height but the bike is a bit top heavy with a full tank so be careful with the front brake at slow speeds - learn to trail brake and use both brakes.

Madstad brackets and their largest screen will d wonders.
 

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Your best investment will be a good rider training course. Bar risers and Madstad's tallest screen, as well as smaller and more aerodynamic mirrors make a huge difference in noise and buffeting. I have just come back to a 17' DL650 from a highly modified Triumph 1050 Tiger and couldn't be happier. Welcome
 

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As poster have stated above.

get a different windshield setup. either givi airflow or madstad adjustible bracket and windscreen will cut down on helmet buffeting. a handlebar riser and lowering foot rest will greatly increase your comfort since you are tall.

For cases, since you are in EU. check out motostorm.it they have great prices for top and side cases from Givi. if you can wait, they typically have pretty good sales on Black Friday in November.
 

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Welcome to motorcycling!!!!!

I have 3 words for ya: Practice Practice Practice

keep your head on a swivel when you're riding. Assume everyone is out to 'run over you'. Wear bright riding gear.

Remember: All The Gear All The Time - ATGATT
 

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A lot of great riding and camping in Europe (if that is where you are).

I can't agree more about investing in training. The Strom... even though it's not a "high performance" machine per sé, still has more capability than the average rider (myself included). Ride the bike... then determine what you need to change, and what you want to change. Resist the temptation to simply start adding bits and bobs. Get to know the bike and you'll soon learn where you want to make changes.

That being said, yes, the MadStad bracket will usually help with wind. Eastern Beaver is a good place to start for basic electronic upgrades, Adventure Tech for various performance upgrades and farkles.

Ride safe... be proactive about your safety and you'll ride for a long time.
 

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To help the OP and his future confusion. You will see a lot of reference over the years for models prior to 2017 wherein there is a lot of talk of buying a madstad bracket. That can't be done for the 2017 and newer. You would need to buy the entire Madstad windshield package. I guess it is possible that somebody else could have bought a complete Madstad windshield setup for their 2017+ and then broke the windshield and decided to sell the bracket. That is the only way you will find a Madstad bracket for a 2017+. Enjoy the bike. It is awesome. Oh ya, so is the entire Madstad windshield setup.
 

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Get some bark busters and crash bars. There is always a chance of dropping the bike. That chance goes up for a new rider. The brake and clutch levers don't handle the weight of the bike very well. Bark busters will protect them. Also, if you have a nice looking bike, you don't want to scratch the paint. That is where the crash bars come into play.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
To help the OP and his future confusion. You will see a lot of reference over the years for models prior to 2017 wherein there is a lot of talk of buying a madstad bracket. That can't be done for the 2017 and newer. You would need to buy the entire Madstad windshield package. I guess it is possible that somebody else could have bought a complete Madstad windshield setup for their 2017+ and then broke the windshield and decided to sell the bracket. That is the only way you will find a Madstad bracket for a 2017+. Enjoy the bike. It is awesome. Oh ya, so is the entire Madstad windshield setup.
Good point... I was actually thinking if any gear fitting pre 2017 would also fit 2017+

Attached my Wee - picked it today after I got pickpocked riding a train to pick it. :frown2:

Regards, Lars.
 

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There are as many arguments on proper break in as there are oil threads. As long as you not going to hope on Interstate 80 click it into 6th gear and ride across the country at a constant speed or continually bounce it of the rev limiter don't worry about proper break in. Gas it up go for a ride and ride until the fuel is low. Top up the tank and ride some more. Keep repeating until you run our of gas money or time.

Honestly most of the break in is done at the factory before the motor is even in the bike when its bench tested.

As far as fitting the bike to you. Ride it for a while taking note what bothers you day after day. Tackle these niggles one at time and take notes of the change good bad or indifferent. Sometimes you get lucky and something like bar risers not only give you better ergo's but also change the way you're in the saddle and that buffeting issue might go away. I know is hard to not buy a cart load of farkles and start bolting them on but if you do small incremental changes you'll end up with a better end product and probably saving some money along the way but not wasting it on something that had little effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There are as many arguments on proper break in as there are oil threads. As long as you not going to hope on Interstate 80 click it into 6th gear and ride across the country at a constant speed or continually bounce it of the rev limiter don't worry about proper break in. Gas it up go for a ride and ride until the fuel is low. Top up the tank and ride some more. Keep repeating until you run our of gas money or time.

Honestly most of the break in is done at the factory before the motor is even in the bike when its bench tested.
The manual actually states no more than 5.000 rpm for the first 1.500 km

Regards, Lars.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hello and welcome to the group!

I don't believe the DL650 is a high theft bike, but I'm not sure in the EU.
Thanks. I noticed that my DL650 apparently got an immobilizer. I didn't know this. Is it any good? I mean... of coarse it can be carried onto a van and driven away... but is it hard enough to circumvent for people not bothering to steal it?

Regards, Lars.
 

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The manual actually states no more than 5.000 rpm for the first 1.500 km

Regards, Lars.
All manuals have verbiage like this and its the law team typing those words. More to let you get used to the bike verses the very minimal break in that may occur.

If you take the bike up to 6,000 or 7,000+ RPM's for short bursts it isn't going to hurt it and some even say its beneficial.

Its your bike do what you think is best be that follow the manual or do a track day. Neither answer is right or wrong and neither will hurt not hinder the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I went cheap for the side cases, but I LOVE them, they are the Givi E22, or the Kappa K22n. Small top loading boxes that hold all the basics. I also went with a E460 Givi top case and keyed all three boxes alike for one key access.
The bike comes with three extra key cylinders that fits the key. Can these be used on any boxes and cases or only specific?

Regards, Lars.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi Lars,

the main ignition key or a key for another case?

Most key cylinders are brand/model specific.
Yes, the main ignition key. It fits into the three, loose cylinders that came in a plastic bag at the bike delivery

I guess it is for cases... but witch then?

Regards, Lars.
 

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The manual actually states no more than 5.000 rpm for the first 1.500 km

Regards, Lars.
Just ride "normally", the whole break in thing is for the rider of the new to them bike. :wink2: You'll figure out in time what you believe needs added to the bike, spend more time riding and honing your skills over anything else. :fineprint:
 
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