[WildDoktor]

Quick update: got the bolt I needed and got the rotor off. Removed all the bolts that hold the cases together. Can't split the cases without buying another $24 tool. *sigh* (Yep; I've *gently* tried a rubber mallet, a carpenter's hammer, and a 5lb sledge hammer...cases didn't budge.)

Ah, well; I'm used to it by now!

 

[oldjeep]

Quick update: got the bolt I needed and got the rotor off. Removed all the bolts that hold the cases together. Can't split the cases without buying another $24 tool. *sigh* (Yep; I've *gently* tried a rubber mallet, a carpenter's hammer, and a 5lb sledge hammer...cases didn't budge.)

Ah, well; I'm used to it by now!

On the plus side you'll have an awesome set of tools when you are done. What tool is needed to split the cases? Typically there will be a couple of slots that you can stick a big screwdriver or tiny crowbar in and twist it - don't know if a Suzuki engine has those but other bike/atv motors I have worked on did.

 

[WildDoktor]

No slots that I've found; needs a tool like this. I'm sure I saw one last night for $24 on ebay, but now can't find it.

Not sure having all these tools is gonna be a "plus" for me...I don't *ever* plan on doing this again!!

 

[oldjeep]

No slots that I've found; needs a tool like this. I'm sure I saw one last night for $24 on ebay, but now can't find it.

Not sure having all these tools is gonna be a "plus" for me...I don't *ever* plan on doing this again!!

I guess alternately you can probably resell the specialty stuff for close to what you paid for it.

 

[DesertBike]

I purchased a broken screw extractor this week, because I was having a hard time with the four screws that hold the Oil Separator to the inside of the crankcase cover.

Of course, the rule is that if you buy the special tool in advance, you don't have the problem requiring the tool. You have to figure out you need it, then wait a week or two for shipping. If you're lucky, it's available locally at a greatly inflated price.

All four screws backed out with careful use of a power drill & #3 Philips bit.

 

[oldjeep]

I purchased a broken screw extractor this week, because I was having a hard time with the four screws that hold the Oil Separator to the inside of the crankcase cover.

Of course, the rule is that if you buy the special tool in advance, you don't have the problem requiring the tool. All four screws backed out with careful use of a power drill & #3 Philips bit.

Lucky, because what always happens to me is that I have the screw extractor, need to use it and it snaps off in the offending bolt giving me something that is even harder to drill out

 

[WildDoktor]

And finally, after 21 months, the offending bent output shaft is OUT! With the proper tools and knowledge (and money), it should have taken about 3 days.

What a crazy journey this has been.

So far.

And it's only half over! Now I gotta put my crank and the new tranny into the new cases, put everything back together, figure out a new clutch basket (waiting on funds, of course), and get the new motor registired with the CHP and DMV.

Should take something like 3 days, right? Yeah...maybe for a normal person.

In any case, splitting the case involved borrowing a very large pully puller from my boss. But I could only get the tinyest of seperation between the cases, and that was only on one side...the other side was still tight.

Rather than just cranking on that 15/16 wrench even harder, I decided to have a look around.

Yep...I'd missed removing one of the bolts holding the cases together. So I cranked it up again, and...same deal. ???

Looked around again, and...yep...I'd missed TWO bolts.

I removed the last one, and the cases came right apart. Whew! I'm guessing that with those last two bolts out, the case would have almost fallen apart on it's own. Sheesh.

Anyway, I then removed the tranny, and the output shaft is bent for sure. But I already knew that.

Could it possibly be time to turn the wrenches the other way??? Maybe!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[Hilo Haole]

So... did the gear clusters come out easy or was force required to get the bent shaft out?

 

[WildDoktor]

Force, with malice a forthought, was required to get that shaft out of the sleve and bearing!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[Brockie]

Congratulations on your determination to succeed. :hurray::hurray::hurray:

 

[WildDoktor]

Ha Ha! Totally appropriate @Brockie!

 

[DesertBike]

Note to self: avoid bending countershaft.

 

[WildDoktor]

Note to self: avoid bending countershaft.

Like x a million!!

Can you please go back in time and tell my younger self that? Maybe add a slap upside my head while you're there...

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[Motor7]

Dude, you are the Pit Bull of persistence!

Can you tell I have had the grandkids since yesterday?

 

[WildDoktor]

Suzuki chemical equivalents / alternatives?

Hey all! I've been super busy the last couple months doing "other" stuff; stuff that's cool enough that I don't feel too bad about the delay. (I'm a singer, and I recently got connected with a super passionate and cool group of local singers and artists, and we've been doing local gigs the last couple months. I've been having a blast, and have *really* needed this after about a 3 year dry spell since moving to Redding, so yeah. )

Well, I had some time the other evening, so I did some research on what I'm going to need to put my motor (and my bike) back together. (And to see if buying a complete gasket kit would be more or less expensive than buying individual gaskets. That answer was easy: buy the kit.)

Now I have a couple questions about "chemicals".

These are the "chemicals" I'll need, as listed in the manual (there are more listed, but I won't need them for the stuff I'm putting together):

Suzuki Bond 1207B
Thread Lock 1342
Suzuki Super Grease "A" - Suzuki apparently doesn't sell the "A"; just the "C"

Questions:

• Are there equivalents / alternatives to each of these that are more readily available at normal box stores or Amazon, or should I just go with the Suzuki stuff?
• Is there an actual difference between the A and C grease? I've searched for days, and like normal, 50% of posts say yes, 50% say no. The 50% that say yes are also split about 50/50 as to whether you should use A or C!

Anyway, I'm looking for answers from you who have actually used this stuff before.

Fire away! And...thanks!

 

[DesertBike]

Good news: There's nothing magical about the Suzuki substances. Use 'em if you got 'em, but they're not required.

If you can get the Suzuki stuff without undue delay or expense, go for it. However, often the "genuine" stuff is overly expensive, would take too long to get, or is altogether unobtainable, so folks have found substitutes.

Suzuki Super Bond looks like a silicone RTV gasket maker. There are several Permatex RTV products that could work in its place, depending on the application. Where is this stuff going to be used?

Blue Loctite (or the Permatex equivalent) is the only thread locker you need. It can be loosened with hand tools, but won't come loose on its own. I never use "red," or the kind of thread locker that requires heat to remove, since there's nothing on my Vstrom where I want to have to break out the blowtorch to get it loose.

Where Suzuki Super Grease "A" was indicated, I've used Mobil One synthetic grease. That's the red stuff that comes in blue-and-silver cans/tubes. Perfectly good substitution. Some folks prefer "marine"-rated grease for the extra resistance to dispersion by water, but it's not required.

Bottom line: you can get substitute goos and greases at any auto parts store that are just fine, no need to pay or wait for shipping.

Hope this helps.

 

[WildDoktor]

Thanks; that helps a lot!

The "super bond" is used for putting the cases back together...apparently a very thin layer on both sides, then bolt them together. (Just don't forget to, you know, put the tranny and junk in first.) Also for some other small parts that I can't remember at the moment. So yeah; I don't need a ton of it.

I can grab some blue loctite local, and already have marine grade grease, so I just need the super bond or equivalent. And some free time.

 

[DesertBike]

For the crankcase halves I would use Permatex Ultra Black (82180). It has the most oil resistance, so it's best-suited.

 

[WildDoktor]

Ok; thanks to you guys' input, and because I have a short break in the other fun stuff I've been doing lately, I bought some stuff today.

Yesterday, I asked an "engineer" type friend from work to please come put his eyes and his brain on left case, the bearing, and the output shaft...I just needed confirmation of what I should do next. He agreed, and we spent a good hour really inspecting everything, concluding that I should definitely use the new (used) left side case. It really wasn't a "no-brainer" until we took a close look at the output shaft. He confirmed my findings that it is, indeed, bent (and that it wasn't going up and down because the bearing had been smacked cockeyed). But more than that...check out the splines where the front sprocket rides!!

For comparison, here's what the new (used) shaft looks like:

We just couldn't in good consience use the case that took a hit big enough to do that to the shaft, so I'll be using the new (used) left case. We also concluded that I will use the original right side case; it couldn't have taken that big a hit, and also it has the motor number on it, and if I change that, then I have to do the whole CHP / DMV thing.

The only problem with the new (used) left case is that all the bearings were "grindy". But tonight I sat down and cleaned, lubed, cleaned, lubed, cleaned, and lubed all the bearings. They are no longer grindy; I got all the dirt out of them, and they're smooooth now. I also got all the crud out of the inside of the case, and cleaned up the mating surfaces as best as I could. Then I filled each bearing (and smeared the crankshaft bushing) with assembly lube.

So I'm on my way...again. This week I hope to get pages 3-78 to 3-86 in the service manual complete...crank, tranny and tranny forks installed; cases mated and bolts tightened, gearshift shaft/arm installed, rotor installed (before I install it I'm going to clean it up real good and add some more jbweld between the magnets if it looks like i didn't do a decent job the 2nd time I tried), cam drive idle gear/sprocket, gear position switch, and oil pump driven gear.

That's where I'll probably stop for a while, because the next part is to install the clutch. But I have a broken basket, so I guess there's no point putting it all together broken, just to take it back apart when I have the money to replace it.

Anyway, it feels good to be on the move again! It seems that I'm truly about to turn the wrenches the other way finally!

 

[DesertBike]

Impressive! You're going to have one of the only Vstroms on the road where you personally have been through and over every bit of engine innards.

Are you planning a Werks clutch basket upgrade?

Similar thought with the stator. I'd put in a rewound/aftermarket one if possible, a Suzuki factory stator is just going to burn out eventually (or quickly, depending on how often you ride) and cause grief.

Maybe you addressed that already, apologies if redundant.