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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have been reading lots of threads about the gold valve emulators and I do have a set as well as a set of springs now. I am planing on installing soon but I keep coming across people talking about a rebound hole being welded shut. Some like it left open, some like it closed.

I am looking for 2 things.

1: can someone provide a picture tho show me where the hole exactly is. I have a idea but want to confirm this for me.

2: Can someone explain the usefulness of leaving it open of closing it. Or atleast point me at specific discussion on this as search did not give me to much specifics on it.

My issue is that if the small hole up top is welded shut how dose oil get out of chamber B in image below on rebound. Ie the checkvalves would stop MOST of the oil getting back into chamber A.





Emulators how they work on racetech site
Emulators-How They Work

Note excellent info thread.
http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-2004-2011-[-wee-strom-]/56303-adjusting-race-tech-emulators-my-bike-strange.html
 

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it is right on your picture Rebound Damping Orifice.
Take the rod out, close to the bottom there are two "big" wholes, they are compression damping, to the top there are 2 or 1 "small" ones, that is rebound.

How the things work is more or less explained in the thread you have found, there are some useful links in there to other resources. Race tech has a wiki on that matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it is right on your picture Rebound Damping Orifice.
Take the rod out, close to the bottom there are two "big" wholes, they are compression damping, to the top there are 2 or 1 "small" ones, that is rebound.

How the things work is more or less explained in the thread you have found, there are some useful links in there to other resources. Race tech has a wiki on that matter.
Been reading the race tech stuff. what I am ready after is why weld it over. I keep finding conflicting info in the fourms
 

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The damping seal and rebound check valve are not a tight seal. I welded my rebound orifice shut for my fork upgrade using Ricor Intiminators, and I like the results.

You will need a long 6 mm hex bit in an impact wrench to get the damper rod bolts out. There is no way to hold the damper rod and keep it from turning, and the impact wrench makes quick work of it. (If broken loose by hand, would the bolt spin fast enough in a drill motor to unscrew it???). (I think 6 mm is the correct size...it must be a long bit.) Be sure to clean off all oil and use blue Loctite when replacing. File and stone the weld smooth so there is no burr to damage the check valve ring.
 

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I use 15w oil and have the rebound hole open. I adjust the emulator for compression and use one step heavier springs than recommended. Works super for street-only use. Some off-roaders seem to prefer a lighter oil and a welded rebound hole with recommended spring rate.

Bill
 

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Been reading the race tech stuff. what I am ready after is why weld it over. I keep finding conflicting info in the fourms
By closing the rebound hole you are increasing the amount of rebound damping. The crucial point is that changes the balance between compression and rebound damping.
With the hole closed you can run lighter oil and still have enough rebound damping. The lighter oil reduces the compression damping, which is what a lot of people are after, especially the high speed damping.
 
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