Check for "kinks" in the chain. If a link has lost it's internal lube, a kink will appear.
Rear Wheel Knock 2005 V 650
I recently went to adjust my chain and discovered it had a knock. I was convinced that I had a bad bearing(s) and the bike has over 55K miles, I ordered new OEM bearings and dust seals. I Cleaned everything, put it back together and balanced. Reinstalled the wheel, adjusted the chain and the knock is still there. The chain has around 2K miles on it and I keep it cleaned, lubed and adjusted regularly. Does anyone have any ideas?
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If you remove the chain and spin the wheel, is the knock still there? (this would confirm bearings, brakes? or some sort of wheel-related knock).
otherwise -
Is the chain rubbing/knocking or getting caught up on a bad front sprocket?
Does the chain have a bad link in it?
Etc..
otherwise -
Is the chain rubbing/knocking or getting caught up on a bad front sprocket?
Does the chain have a bad link in it?
Etc..
I spun it without the chain attached to the rear sprocket and there's no knock. With the chain on the sprocket and loose there's no knock. Only when I put tension on the chain the knock is there. I checked the front sprocket and it's still good. If it's the chain, there would have to be a bunch of links gone bad but all the rubber o-rings are still intack.If you remove the chain and spin the wheel, is the knock still there? (this would confirm bearings, brakes? or some sort of wheel-related knock).
otherwise -
Is the chain rubbing/knocking or getting caught up on a bad front sprocket?
Does the chain have a bad link in it?
Etc..
sounds like we have similar diagnosis procedures. LOLI spun it without the chain attached to the rear sprocket and there's no knock. With the chain on the sprocket and loose there's no knock. Only when I put tension on the chain the knock is there. I checked the front sprocket and it's still good. If it's the chain, there would have to be a bunch of links gone bad but all the rubber o-rings are still intack.
If it is only knocking when tight, it would affect the travel location of the chain, any chance it's rubbing chain guard/buffer/something that it wouldn't rub when loose???
found this thread that MIGHT be of interest.
Chain sitting right on chain guard... OK?
Here's the first in four maintenance questions I have. Writing to you from Tuxtla Guiterrez (about to head to the Sumidero Canyon National Park - Mexico's Grand Canyon). You can see from below that my chain is sitting right on the chain guard. I think this is OK because I have checked chain...
www.stromtrooper.com
Does the chain have sufficient slack??
I have the tools to check the chain tension and alignment. I keep the chain between the recommended 20-30mm slackDoes the chain have sufficient slack??
I'm wondering if it's possible that there is a bearing on the transmission gear axel that may be the culprit
Any chance the knock is from the chain interacting with the rear sprocket, not being 100% parallel?I spun it without the chain attached to the rear sprocket and there's no knock. With the chain on the sprocket and loose there's no knock. Only when I put tension on the chain the knock is there. I checked the front sprocket and it's still good. If it's the chain, there would have to be a bunch of links gone bad but all the rubber o-rings are still intack.
When you turn the rear wheel by hand with chain on and tensioned correctly, how many 'knocks' do you get in one revolution of the rear wheel? And when it knocks, if you stop rotation and reverse direction can you make it knock over and over at the same place? Can you feel any drag or bumping of the wheel when you hear the knock?
Somehow I didn't notice before but my rear sprocket is slightly bent. It along with the front sprocket and chain I replaced together about 2K miles ago. I sure hope that's the problem. Only way to find out is to replace it and see
While you have the wheel off, check the carrier bearing as well. Mine knocked after it failed, and I could hear it even when turning the wheel slowly.
I replaced it also along with the wheel bearingsWhile you have the wheel off, check the carrier bearing as well. Mine knocked after it failed, and I could hear it even when turning the wheel slowly.
A bent rotor will randomly cause the caliper attachment bracket rubber sleeve to knock against the swingarm fixture but that's rare. Your cause is a faulty chain and bent sprocket.
Did you buy this bike new? I’d now wonder how the sprocket got bent; or why you “suddenly “ noticed knock. Curiouser & curiouser!
Check that the rear brake caliper is seated correctly in the slot on the swingarm. Rear brake caliper ~ groove alignment HELP
Have you checked the cush rubbers? Replacing The “Cush Drive” Absorbers
Have you checked the cush rubbers? Replacing The “Cush Drive” Absorbers
Run more slack and that should solve your problem.I have the tools to check the chain tension and alignment. I keep the chain between the recommended 20-30mm slack
I appreciate everyone's help with this!
When I thought it was a or the wheel bearings I purchased everything from the dust seals and between including the spacers. When I pulled the sprocket carrier I noticed the rubber dampers seemed a little to easy to put the sprocket carrier back in so I stopped and ordered the dampers. I installed everything and reinstalled the wheel assembly and it didn't make a change.
I pulled the wheel off the bike and put it all on the balancer including the spacers against the left swing arm and the brake holder on the right. I gave it a dozen spins and observed the sprocket (it's bent but I don't know how) and to see if the carrier is seated properly which is looks like it is. The brake rotor is also straight. I can't find any links in the chain that are bound up or loose. It seems ok to me
Edit: I pulled the wheel assembly off this morning to make the checks
When I thought it was a or the wheel bearings I purchased everything from the dust seals and between including the spacers. When I pulled the sprocket carrier I noticed the rubber dampers seemed a little to easy to put the sprocket carrier back in so I stopped and ordered the dampers. I installed everything and reinstalled the wheel assembly and it didn't make a change.
I pulled the wheel off the bike and put it all on the balancer including the spacers against the left swing arm and the brake holder on the right. I gave it a dozen spins and observed the sprocket (it's bent but I don't know how) and to see if the carrier is seated properly which is looks like it is. The brake rotor is also straight. I can't find any links in the chain that are bound up or loose. It seems ok to me
Edit: I pulled the wheel assembly off this morning to make the checks
I decided since I'd like to keep my bike as oem as possible, I ordered a new oem sprocket from Partzilla so now I'm gonna need a chain and front sprocket that is 525 instead of the aftermarket 520 setup I have now. I'm gonna order the oem chain from Partzilla but I want a 16 tooth front sprocket that will work with the 525 setup. Can I get a recommendation of a 16 tooth front sprocket that is of good quality that will work? The current setup is 520 JT front and rear sprockets with a Japanese chain but I can't remember where I ordered the kit from. Also does the chain assembly that Partzilla sells come with the link or do I need to order that also? I have the PBR tool to properly put the chain and link together
Have you removed the sprocket and placed a straightedge across it to ensure it really is bent? The sideways force to have bent that in place would be quite massive.I pulled the wheel off the bike and put it all on the balancer.... I gave it a dozen spins and observed the sprocket (it's bent but I don't know how) and to see if the carrier is seated properly which is looks like it is. The brake rotor is also straight. I can't find any links in the chain that are bound up or loose.
A few years back, GreyWolf informed me that if you remove the rear wheel, lay it flat on the ground and then lift the rear wheel off the ground by grabbing the rear sprocket in both hands and everything stays together, then the rubbers are good. If you lift it by grabbing the sprocket in both hands and the sprocket separates from the wheel, the rubbers need shimmed or replaced. If the rubbers are providing sufficient friction to hold things together, you may think that the sprocket is correctly/appropriately installed but it may be slightly askew and not fully seated. This could make it "appear" bent. Considering how difficult it would be to bend a sprocket (unless it's retaining bolts were not properly tightened and torqued) I would meticulously inspect the sprocket to ensure it was seated properly in the rear wheel. Measure from the sprocket to fixed locations on the wheel to ensure it is seated fully and properly. Consider removing the sprocket, spinning it clockwise a bit, reinserting it into the carrier, and remeasuring. Same results? Repeat.
When the wheel is installed on the bike and chain tensioned, I would not assume the wheel is properly aligned just because the adjusters on each side are at the same marks on the frame. Use calipers to measure distances on both sides to ensure the axle is straight rather than rely on sighting it to the adjusting marks.
I like to check on how the chain tracks on the rear sprocket, when the wheel is spun by hand, while on the center stand. If the sprocket teeth remain at even spacing / center of the chain link, then to me, the chain to sprocket alignment is set up correctly. One can see whether there is a wobble / play in the rear sprocket when viewing from the rear end when using this method of testing the chain alignment.
The JTF520 number on the front sprocket is not a chain size reference. Have a look at the file JT Sprockets Application Guide 2021.pdf located on JT Sprockets: Downloads pg 8 (part number system) and pg 65 (bottom 3rd of the page - recommended for the DL650 models)
The JTF520 number on the front sprocket is not a chain size reference. Have a look at the file JT Sprockets Application Guide 2021.pdf located on JT Sprockets: Downloads pg 8 (part number system) and pg 65 (bottom 3rd of the page - recommended for the DL650 models)
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