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Discussion Starter #1
Checking out the bike I just bought, 2012 V-strom 1000. 30k miles. When I spin the rear wheel on the center stand I get a gravely sound besides the chain clicking over the teeth. Here's the video. You can barely hear it over the chain and wind, but listen for the groan/gravely sound especially when I spin backwards.

There's, also a gap on the front of that rubber washer thing between the swing arm and hub (See photo). It spins freely if I try to move it so I don't know if its just a dust shield or a sign of bad things. Also, on the center stand the rear wheel has a tiny tiny bit of play if I grab it at the top and try and twist side to side to make the read bearing clunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, I'll take a look tomorrow, trying to budget for winter tires for my car and now the bike needs work, lovely.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update:

Last night I changed my rear wheel bearings and cush drive at 30k miles. I've got about 700 miles on the bike since I bought it about 4 weeks ago.

What I found was the last guy put the infamous spacer in backwards which is why I had so much slop in the sproket hub and toasted wheel bearings. Also not sure if this is how they come stock but the bearings in the bike only had a grease seal on one side, so I could clearly see the ball bearings on one side. My new bearings (All Balls) had a grease seal on both sides.

Everything now feels like it's supposed to and the rear axle is about 1/4 inch further forward since it's not taking up the slop in the sprocket. Will be test riding tonight.
 

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Update:

Last night I changed my rear wheel bearings and cush drive at 30k miles. I've got about 700 miles on the bike since I bought it about 4 weeks ago.

What I found was the last guy put the infamous spacer in backwards which is why I had so much slop in the sproket hub and toasted wheel bearings. Also not sure if this is how they come stock but the bearings in the bike only had a grease seal on one side, so I could clearly see the ball bearings on one side. My new bearings (All Balls) had a grease seal on both sides.

Everything now feels like it's supposed to and the rear axle is about 1/4 inch further forward since it's not taking up the slop in the sprocket. Will be test riding tonight.
My stock bearings were also only sealed on the outside. Did you wind up getting the machined spacer, or did yours seem to space the sprocket hub correctly? That seems to be what ate everything up on my bike, was that the sprocket hub could not seat as far into the cush as it should have been able to, which allowed it to wobble on the spacer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My stock bearings were also only sealed on the outside. Did you wind up getting the machined spacer, or did yours seem to space the sprocket hub correctly? That seems to be what ate everything up on my bike, was that the sprocket hub could not seat as far into the cush as it should have been able to, which allowed it to wobble on the spacer.
I'm fairly sure I don't have that problem, apparently 2012s are most likely immune to that, and I checked that my chain is straight going up towards the drive sprocket, there's no play in my sprocket now, it's Rock solid against the wheel. But as with everything time will tell.
 

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Most Suzuki wheel bearings come from the factory with just one seal. I suppose it saves $0.001 per bearing or something.
 

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I haven't replaced bearings in some time. When I do, I take the old one down to the bearing supply house and utilize their brains for replacements. and I buy wheel bearings with 2 seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I haven't replaced bearings in some time. When I do, I take the old one down to the bearing supply house and utilize their brains for replacements. and I buy wheel bearings with 2 seals.
I bought the kit from All Balls and their bearings have seals on both sides.
 

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I bought the kit from All Balls and their bearings have seals on both sides.
That's the kit I used. Put them in the freezer until you get ready to install them. Mine were in the freezer for a few days and literally fell right in.
 

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I will not use All Balls any more. Some have good luck and some don't. I have an ATV that lives in the muck and water. It uses double sealed bearings and the NTNs hold up much better.

Many have good luck with AB....so what. NTN or equivalents are much higher quality and I like doing these jobs one time.

Freezing the bearing is what I do also and if even a little tight I toss it back in the freezer and use a heat gun on the hub first, then repeat.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I didn't have to use my freezer or a heat gun, I took them out with the Motion Pro tool ($28.50), and made my own drivers to put them in ($0 scrap bin finds). I think I got the 2nd wheel bearing a tad tight on the spacer but I guess we'll see how long they last. It was pretty easy so I won't mind doing it again later. The All Balls kit ($32.84) compared to the Timken at $25 a bearing x3. If the All Balls doesn't last another 30k then I will do Timken, but $30 is worth a try.
 

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Bearing driver works too;) Surprisingly shops don't put bearings in with their food.
In the shop that employed me, I was always in a hurry to clear my lift table off>:). I did not care if the bearing bore in the hub took a little abuse, when I "tapped/banged and/or cussed" a new bearing home:grin2:. I have drivers at the house also, they are called sockets with extensions and I never really need them.
 
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