John had his made for his weight. The shock is set for 290 pounds and has plenty of adjustment past that. My shock is also dialed all the way out and with me and all of my gear packed it sags pretty bad.
I got the reply from Wilbers. Looks like that is the way I am going to go.
I can supply a stock replacement spring which is 30 % stronger (load carrying capacity) then the stock one @ $ 116.00 + S&H, or, I can supply you a complete new shock.
The following is some general information as well as pricing and pictures.
The WILBERS shocks come with a five year warranty.
The service intervals during this time are approx 2=3 years or 20-30,000
Service is done here in the US at my place at a cost of approx. $ 75 - 100
The WILBERS shocks are custom built to your specifications by the factory
and not converted over here. Other shocks (Oehlins, Penske etc.) are usually
customized to your specifications by the guy who installs them, or you have
to send them to a service place at additional cost.
The shocks can be built to lower your riding height - some bikes up to 2",
as well as to raise the riding height at no additional cost. Other
manufacturers will not do that at all, because it does not agree with their
mass production, or way of manufacturing.
The WILBERS shocks are offered with adjustable HIGH and LOW speed
There is a choice between a BLUE (standard) or RED color spring, at no cost.
Other colors can be done at extra cost.
Delivery is between 3 - 4 weeks.
The WILBERS shocks are high quality items, exclusively built to your
specifications, at a price level of a mass-production item.
For the SUZUKI DL 1000 V-Strom, I can offer the following:
Model 640 @ $ 417.00
the shock has adjustable rebound damping with 22 clicks, and infinite
variable adjustment for the spring pre-load via C-spanner
Model 641 @ $ 627.00
the shock has adjustable rebound damping with 22 clicks, as well as High and
Low speed compression damping with 22 clicks each and hose mounted
# 629 = infinite variable adjustable ride height +/- 1/2" @ $ 66.00
# 625 = hydraulic pre-load adjuster for rear shock, to eliminate the
fiddling with the hook-wrench @ $ 196.00
The attached pictures (generic) show the different models and installed
S&H in the US is $ 20.00 per shock
If you have any questions or want to talk to me about it, call me at either
my shop 877-786-6543 or eve. 732-845-3557
Thank you for giving me the opportunity to be of service.
Has anyone just swapped the spring in the original Shock. What manufactures offer a spring for the VS. I'm looking for a slightly firmer spring, but I still want the bike to handle the gravel roads. What are the original measurements of the OME spring ie rates etc. I'm also considering the 3 line spacer.
It's best to be patient when alter suspension from OME specs. Do things one at a time, then you can more easily understand if your tweeking has made improvements. My VS was lowered when I bought it. Now I would like to put it back up to stock height. Supposedly when you change the ride height rake and trail will be altered slightly. I would like to have more preloaded on the back. I've been told that the mechanical advantage of the links and shock may be reduced when lowering the rear of the bike.
So if I put the bike back to stock height I may have increased firmness in the suspension. If not I will then add the 3 line spacer for more preload. This will also raise the height of the bike.
Measuring Sag on your bike can derive useful information for suspension setup. Good articles are:
- Wilbers Spring 10.3 Kg/mm $116 US. Part # 496-011-00
Both springs have consistent coils not progressive. Just putting the spring in the shock you will have to live with the damping characteristics of the OME shock.
I wiegh 240 lbs and I was also considering the 3 line spacer, but I do not think it is necessary with this spring. I may replace the springs next year.
This year I'm think about installing the 3 line spacer with my stock shock though.
I would like to install the 3 line preload spacer in the shock. I have a press I can use at work. My manual does not show how to take the spring off. Does anyone know what is involved in doing this. Once I get the spring compressed what do I do to remove the top so I can add the spacer.
Received my spacer in the mail. Just removed the links and the shock. A easy job to do with a centerstand. Sent it to my shop to have it installed,should only take 1/2 of shop time.
My shop gave me a good piece of information:
They said that the spring should compress when riding about 3/4 of the full travel. You do not want it so firm that the spring does not compress to this distance or the wheel will be skipping over the pavement.
To check this smear grease along the shock shaft and go for an aggressive ride. From where the grease is rubbbed off you can see how much travel the spring is compressing.
Had the spacer installed by my shop. The documentation Seth gives you for installing it is good. My shop thought it should be installed at the bottom of the spring, but you put it just under the original lined spacer with a washer under it then the spring. Even if you put it on the bottom it would probably have the same effect. The installation of the shock is more work reinstalling it. I did the work in my apartment parking lot. Just purchased a large 1/2 drive torque wrench, now I have 2 the other for light torques. It is easier to remove the hole tire and why not install a new chain and sprocket while your at it and why not a new tire. Nothing is ever organized that well. When reinstalling the Links and the Shock when the bike is supported on a centerstand, have different thickness of blocks to prop up the tire handy. I was pleasantly supprised that my big mitts could fit in the small spaces to remount everything. I had to use a universal joint with all my socket extensions to torque one of the lowest link bolts. Not the way your suppose to use a torque wrench. While the suspension was off, I examined my Manual to see if there was anything else I could inspect. Regreased the link mounts, and try to check the play in the swing arm. From what I could tell there was no play,but its hard to tell while the bike is up on the wiggle centerststand. I'm trying the grease technique to see how much shock travel I have.
This should be another post but, whatever.
Also raised the forks in the tripple clamps, since I put the original OEM links on the bike with the extra preload from the spacer. I figured a
14 mm drop in the forks down from 26mm would work well. Used a vernier on the top of the caps and lowered one at a time. Had to clamp and reclamp a few times because each fork wouldn't raise the whole 12mm difference. The 3/8 torque wrench worked great on the 26N/M torques of the tripple clamp bolts. The only thing I have to do is readusted adjust my chain. It is out by 10mm on the sag.
All I can say is test ride one. It's a compromise bike that does well in most riding applications. Not as focused as a good sport bike. There is a photo on this web page, its under the first heading, StromTroopers. Its a picture of a guy draging the pegs on a VS.
Phangan posted it ,Title: Nice Yellow V-Strom Pic. The picture is also under the Heading Testing Ground
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