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Is it OK to adjust the shock while not on the center stand? Is it effective if the weight is on the tires?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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That works fine. If the preload adjuster sticks. it isn't because of the weight on the tires but lack of use. Exercise it regularly. If it sticks, you can take the knob off and use a socket wrench on the nut inside the housing to get more force to break it free.
 

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As GW says.

The only time I had issue cranking up preload with pillion in the back. Even then reducing preload isn't an issue. Got the point could adjust without getting off the bike, just stand up.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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What's the proper way to adjust suspension? I'm talking proper preload rebound etc


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I am not very scientific about it I go by balance. I am happy if front and back feel similar going over pothole if one feels stiffer than other than bike will be unsettled - make adjustments.

When preload set and not enough rebound it will feel bouncy and try to kick you up, if too much it feels dead and makes second hit feel harder.. set in the middle.. (usually ends up a compromise on a lighter side for loaded heavier for not as I don't like fiddling with it)
 

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I understand P[pogo, but what do you mean by "packs down" ? Is that when it feels like the Jolly Green Giant has your bike by the tail and is pulling it backwards on the 'boards?
He means the same thing the suspension compresses and doesn't return to initial state so second and following hits feel stiffer/too much preload.
 

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He means the same thing the suspension compresses and doesn't return to initial state so second and following hits feel stiffer/too much preload.
*rebound, not preload.

The bummer about the rear is that there is only one adjustment. Initially I thought it adjusted both the rebound and compression, but now I need to double check, it may just be the rebound can someone chime in?


Rebound is set to how stiff/slowly you want the oil returning. Set it soft for the suspension to be quicker and stiff to be slower.
Alot of road imperfections, chattering, like a brick road, set to soft, long whoops set to hard.

I set my preload a little higher, I rather top out than bottom out.
 

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*rebound, not preload.
.
Yes *rebound.

too much rebound makes it feel like too much preload on washboard surface, wheel starts skipping and looses contact, easy to trigger ABS. But no issue on single hits.

In practice it is easier to set too little rebound and then crank it up just enough to stop pogo effect.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I taped a yardstick to the side under the seat and ran it down by the rear axle and read the value while on the center stand. Then I got on the bike using almost no foot pressure just to keep it upright while running a video camera at axle level to get a loaded value. The difference between the two values was the sag.

For the front, start with the bike on the side stand and put a cable tie snugly around the fork tube. Pull the bike left and up to fully extend the fork tubes and slide the tie down the tube to the fork dust cover. Get on the bike and wiggle the bars a little to defeat stiction while again putting almost no weight on the feet. Get off and pull the forks to full extension again and measure the distance from the cable tie to the dust cover.
 

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That's about the best I've come up with too. I've tried using a laser pointer and a yard stick for the rear, but it didn't work very well. My mountain bike had an oring on the shock shaft. One day I'll experiment with that.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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25-33% is the typical range. 40mm or so is a good number for the difference between fully extended and fully loaded an any V-Strom.
 
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