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Discussion Starter #1
I am a pretty big bloke and as such went to increase the preload on the rear shock

My understanding is that the adjustment knob should turn around two and a half to three revolutions for the full range of preload settings.

I am not sure on what mine was set at but about 6 turns later I was still able to keep adjusting (in the clockwise or increased preload direction)

Is this normal?

Can you over adjust (in general, not to suit rider preferences)

Apologies if this topic has been flogged in the past but I am new to my Strom and this forum

Cheers
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It's closer to 30 revolutions for the full range. I forget exactly how many. There are five height lines around the shock body at maximum extension.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks guys

I will recheck in the day light

good night from Perth
 

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Keep turning and turning and turning and turning and turning while you curse the evil SOB designer who tucked the knob into an area where it's impossible to get a good grip on the knob and every tiny 1/4 turn will bruise your knuckles...

Yeah, it'll stop when you get to the end, and it takes a lot of turns. Still beats dealing with the old threaded preload collars with a hammer and punch.

You can also remove the knob (careful, there's a washer, spring and a ball that will fly out and vanish forever) and use an 8mm socket or t-handle driver.
 

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Quote fm Greywolf:
"There are five height lines around the shock body at maximum extension."

My Wee rear shock body shows 2 lines, with approx 1/16" above & below each line. I think this equates to a setting of #3.

Question: When turning this rear "loading" adjustment knob clockwise it stiffens the spring (helpful if carrying a heavy load), but does it ALSO lower the rear end of the mc? In other words, would the spring be COMPRESSED when set to a stiffer setting?

Thanks for clarification.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Quote fm Greywolf:
Question: When turning this rear "loading" adjustment knob clockwise it stiffens the spring (helpful if carrying a heavy load), but does it ALSO lower the rear end of the mc? In other words, would the spring be COMPRESSED when set to a stiffer setting?

Thanks for clarification.
Changing the preload does not stiffen the spring. The spring stiffness is inherent. Cranking the preload clockwise raises the rear and counterclockwise lowers it. It's called setting the sag for the load. See The Science and Black Magic of Suspension Setup
 

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To simplify, the goal of setting the sag, both front with spring selection and preload spacers & setting and rear with spring selection and preload setting, is to get you, with your weight and cargo, into the middle of the suspension travel. So you have about equal chance of topping out or bottoming out if you hit big bumps--or equal chance of neither topping out or bottoming out. It does not stiffen the suspension. It is not the correct way to set the ride height.
 

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And just to bring a bit of perspective to all this, if you weigh more than about 150 - 170 pounds, the stock spring is pretty much just useless mush. In other words, preload it all you want, but the stock spring rate is far too low for many riders. You can't adjust the stock suspension to work correctly if your personal displacement is outside this range -- you're rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic here.

If you're on the larger side, crank up the preload all the way and leave it there until you save up the pennies to send your shock to Sasquatch for a rebuild and a proper spring.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I would say 1/4-1/3 rather than 1/2 of the travel. More travel is likely to be used on compression.
 

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It's closer to 30 revolutions for the full range. I forget exactly how many. There are five height lines around the shock body at maximum extension.
I second that. Also, the knob gets pretty hard to turn as you are applying the preload and it will stop at the maximum preload. I don't think you can overdo it.
 

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Here is a download of a service manual of a DL1000.

http://mikeschinkel.com/motorcycles/vstrom/manual/6A-Chassis.pdf

on page 6-46 will give you a sketch of what you should see on the rear suspension. When I checked my rear suspension, I could only see four washers, but what looked like a thinner washer at the bottom of the other four. I had also preloaded the suspension to the highest point, where the knob would not turn any more. GW I think is correct, the knob will turn about 30 times from lowest to highest.

Bryn
 

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The stock rear spring can handle a hell of a lot more than 150-170lbs. I weigh 180, and with the preload cranked all the way up, the back end is STIFF AS HELL.

I could have used more when touring with 90# of gear on the back of the bike, but I'd say the rear spring is easily good for 250# of rider or thereabouts.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Increasing the preload doesn't make the spring any stiffer. It has no effect on the ride other than making it harder to bottom the rear. Either the compression damping is too hard (and it's not adjustable), you're actually bottoming the suspension or you're mistaking excessive rebound for stiffness.
 

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if you weigh more than about 150 - 170 pounds, the stock spring is pretty much just useless mush.

Is there quoted anywhere other than on your post? I'm curious if there is a Suzuki manual somewhere that says this, and how accurate this information actually is. I understand this is a Japanese bike, but the average male (assumed market) generally is not under 150-170...
 

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In gear I'm about 220lb and setting the static sag has my preload at about pos#3 on the rear but all in at the front. The rear has more to give but the front could stand slightly heavier springs in my case. The previous owner had everything set as soft as possible, I think he was trying lower the bike a little plus he's somewhat lighter than I am (we're both members of the same club here). The handling is much sharper now. :D
 

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I am 250 lbs geared up, 2012 new model vstrom 650, the rear shock adjustment knob doesn't seem to want to turn in either direction, the bike seems low to me if that makes sense, it isn't lowered by the way, just I'd rather see more suspension travel in the rear, it's like the rear of the bike is squat down a bit, and I think this is making the headlights aim a bit high too.
you can tell I'm a novice at this, which way should I turn the shock adjuster to raise the rear end a bit, I don't know if it's fully clockwise or anti clockwise at the minute, it's going to take a bit of force to get it moving by the looks of it and I don't want to break it,
any advice appreciated, also how do you adjust the headlights up and down? thanks.
 

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aka Rick in Alabama
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Resurrecting an older thread here -

The knob on my rear adjuster likewise does not want to move.

Is there a trick to it, or are they all just tight as a tick?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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You can unscrew the knob and put a tool on the post. If it isn't regularly used, it will stick.
 
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