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Hello All,
This last week I took my '15 650DLA to the mechanic to replace the rear tire. Since they were already changing the tire I gave them a set of front/rear gaffer brake pads and had them replace them while changing the tire.

When I got the bike back, the brakes were really spongy so I went ahead and bled the front/rear. The front went smooth, no issues, however when I bled the rear I was getting a lot of air in the system. I did contact the mechanic who replaced the pads and they told me the bolt pin on the caliper was overtorqued and they had to tap it out. They also mentioned there were metal shavings but said it was all taken care of and the brakes should be good to go.

For some reason, I cannot get the bleeder valve to stop leaking fluid. It's a gradual leak when sitting undisturbed, but a heavy leak when I try bleeding the brakes after closing the valve.

Any ideas? I'm probably going to have to take the bike back to the mechanic but at this point I'm not even sure I trust them to do a proper job. I realized after getting back the insulator and retainer that were installed on the stock pads aren't installed on the new gaffer pads. Do they need them? I'm not even sure the shop is still going to have my old pads as they probably threw them out.

Thanks in advance for any advice!
 

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Are you saying that when you press the rear brake pedal that brake fluid leaks from the bleeder valve on top of the calliper, as in this picture?

There is an issue where the threaded plugs which go on top of the brake pins to prevent mud from gumming up the hex heads often become frozen and need to be drilled out. It is not a serious issue but should be replaced (with anti-seize compound on the threads to prevent a repeat next time).



All of the parts of your brake system should have gone back on. If they left some off, like the insulator plate etc, those parts belong back on. Do you know this because they gave you back spare parts? Amazing. I can only guess that they did not know enough to take the master cylinder cap off so that the pistons could be pushed back into the calliper far enough so that all parts could fit back in.

If they did as I believe you are saying then yes, you are correct to doubt their ability. The choice is yours. You have to sum up if you believe an approach to THE BOSS would get their attention. If it is a back street two-man outfit you might be best putting it down to experience and taking your problems elsewhere for resolution. In the diagram below parts #16, #17 and #18 need to be in place.
 

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Rahz, it is possible that in an attempt to remove the pin bolt a torch was used to heat up the area, which could have distorted the caliper in the bleeder valve area. If that's the case it appears to me that somebody owes you a caliper. The missing parts(insulators) is one thing, a noise issue, but the leak is the main deal here, being a safety issue. If your state requires a motorcycle safety inspection for licensing( I was a Missouri State Safety & Emission inspector as part of my job) it would fail on the spot as a leak in the brake hydraulic system.
One of our policies was to return all parts replaced to the customer, or at least show the parts to the customer if they didnt want them. It's a matter of trust.
You mentioned taking your bike to "the mechanic". Could you be a little more specific?
 

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Is the leak coming out the hole in the bleeder valve or around the threads? If the latter, it could be residual fluid which is left in the space at the bottom of the bleeder. If the lever (pedal) has a solid feel and the brakes work properly then the valve is sealing properly, but after bleeding some fluid will remain in the small space at the bottom of the valve, and will tend to seep up around the threads. I had this issue recently and thought there was a warranty issue with the calipers. The dealer checked it out, with input from the factory, and came to the above conclusion. (I suppose if you use a vacuum tool to bleed this will not happen, as the residual fluid will be drawn out. When checking, keep in mind the spec for the bleeder screws is 4.5 lb.ft, so be careful of over tightening.
 
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