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Discussion Starter #1
I apologize if this question has already been answered elsewhere but I am having a hard time searching the forum for the term `ABS’ which is always omitted by the search engine.

In a DL650 2009 I have a blockage in the ABS unit servicing the rear brake line. So I would like to bypass the ABS unit for the rear brake circuit and connect directly from the master cylinder to the caliper. I would really appreciate any feedback/advice from anyone who has done this.

Question 1; It seems to me that the standard rear brake line from a 2009 non ABS bike would fit straight on to the 2009 ABS version bike. Or am I missing something?

Question 2; In order to then seal the ABS unit once the rear brake circuit was disconnected, I was intending to remove the rear brake lines where they enter and leave the ABS unit and plug with suitable banjo bolt. Alternatively I could seal the unit where the rigid line changes and connects to the flexible line. That would be more accessible.

Any advice would be appreciated...
 

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It is my understanding that the abs, when turned off(either front or rear) reverts to normal manual braking. There is a thread somewhere here that entails how to add a switch to turn the rear abs off where the o/p cut the electrical wire going to the rear abs pump and added a rocker switch.

Another option is to watch fleabay for a parted our bike and grab a used abs pump waaaay cheaper than a new replacement.
 

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Not a direct answer but use GOOGLE and search defining stromtroper as the domain to search or just add stromtrooper to the search string. There were a few discussions about your type of problem here in the past.

I assume you lost the rear brake, correct? If the loss is not complete, one method that may bring it back is by trying to activate the ABS system by repeatedly (many times) activating the ABS intervention. Best done on a grassy surface or slippery gravel surface and braking aggressively so the wheel(s) want to block. If the front ABS is still working properly, it will not block but get the ABS valves actuated. If you'r lucky it may dislodge whatever is blocking the rear circuit.
 

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Question 2; In order to then seal the ABS unit once the rear brake circuit was disconnected, I was intending to remove the rear brake lines where they enter and leave the ABS unit and plug with suitable banjo bolt. Alternatively I could seal the unit where the rigid line changes and connects to the flexible line. That would be more accessible.

Any advice would be appreciated...
NOTE: I have never done this on a Suzuki. But on my BMW to keep the front ABS working and disable the rear ABS sells (sold in Germany only) short brake lines bent into a "U" shape with brake line flanges/nuts. The objective of creating a loop is to not trigger the computer into failure mode.

Some one will know - or - you can try the various recipes and report back to us.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the comments.

Including the domain name is a great method of searching. Thanks for that. I had found most of the previous threads by scrolling through google pages but now I got them all up front on the first couple of pages, a lot more convenient and comprehensive.

Just to clarify, turning the ABS on and off does not make a difference. It is purely a hydraulic issue. I need the bike back on the road so I cannot wait for a second hand unit to turn up and the second hand ABS units I have seen are still quite pricey, being half or third of the new price.

The posts and suggestion to use the ABS to get the valve working actually makes a lot sense. I can imagine the valve seizing from lack of use. I turn the ABS system off when I travel on dirt roads so it really never gets used. However, I do not have any brake action at all on the rear brakes so I cannot actually engage the ABS to bring it back to life.

My plan is to bypass the ABS altogether (rear circuit only) and it seems to me that the brake line from the non ABS bike should fit perfectly and that I do not need a special line made up. I will report back whether it fits, and hopefully, works.
 

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I thought the ABS compared rotation speeds of front and back wheels to sense when one is locking. Would it work at all if one wheel is not connected?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It is my understanding from other threads that the ABS can be disconnected from the rear brake circuit and still work on the front. Anyway, I will let you know…
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had an interesting morning to see if I could find a blockage or isolate the problem to somewhere else than the ABS unit (wishful thinking).

I was able to blow compressed air through all the brake lines. I was able to blow air backwards through the ABS unit. So in reverse to the normal direction of pressure when the brakes are applied. However, I cannot blow air through the ABS unit in the forward direction, the direction of fluid pressure. So it does not seem to be a blockage but some valve or similar in the ABS that is stuck or not working properly.

Although unsuccessful in fixing the issue at least I am certain that it is a fault within the ABS. Back to plan 1 and order a new brake line tomorrow…
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Today’s repairs:
Removed all existing rear brake line. Installed new brake line which was identical to the standard rear brake hose of the non ABS bike. Installed banjo bolt plugs into the in and outlet of the ABS unit to seal the unit. Bled the rear brakes.

Result:
Rear brake works well and was super easy to bleed. Can lock the rear brake if I try but needs a good bit of pressure to do so. ABS light comes on at start up and turns off once 5km/h is reached. Front brakes still have ABS and is functioning normal.

Thanks everyone for their comments. Problem solved.
 
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