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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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A torch would be damaging to surrounding areas. A saw or grinding wheel would be indicated. The best tool would be a nut splitter as it might allow the axle to be saved but the biggest I've seen goes to 22mm and the nut is 24mm.
 

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Do a Google search and you probably can find a 24mm splitter but you may not want to pay the price.

Here's one on Amazon (they are also available on eBay):

3-Piece Nut Splitter Sets - Amazon.com

But at $110 plus :yikes:, you may want to see if anyone rents them.
 

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Close call

I too once had the thread galling issue and replaced the axle and axle nut with the addition of anti-seize. I had been riding with the axle like that for about 6-8 month with no issue. However, after a rough ride up in the Sierra's today, I get home only to find that my axle nut had come off and the axle had begun to wiggle out. How I made it home without a catastrophic pile-up, I don't know. I feel pretty lucky. While the lubricating effect of the anti-seize really does eradicate any galling issues, keep your eyes peeled for that baby spinning loose.

Just to further clarify the circumstances surrounding this, I am in the 'torque by feel' camp and always have been with no issue. Some may claim that is apart of my problem here but i've been riding and working on bikes for 20 years and I have never had this happen before. For what it's worth.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Since you did it by feel, I'd say that was part of the problem. The other part would be the nut. Did you replace it or wear it out? It shouldn't be removable by hand even when loosened, much less come off by itself.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Given a little while to think about other things freed my mind on this one. Unless you replaced the stock nut with an ordinary one, the most likely reason for loss would be theft.
 

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Unless you replaced the stock nut with an ordinary one...
It sure sounds like he used something other than a castle nut. Or a castle nut without the cotter pin.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It sure sounds like he used something other than a castle nut. Or a castle nut without the cotter pin.
He's got a 2011 Wee. Wee's changed from castellated nuts to Fuji nuts in 2009.

 

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He's got a 2011 Wee. Wee's changed from castellated nuts to Fuji nuts in 2009.
Well, there ya go....shows I'm still living in the past. Which is good, because that's the only place I feel at home.:yesnod:
 

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I've got that fuji nut shown above. I don't think it was theft because I was literally in the middle of nowhere all day. I saw a few people as I flew past, but no one had the chance to get close to my bike. I think I had put too much anti-seize on. I guess a little dab will do ya! A couple 'roads' I took consisted of nothing but rock and I rattled around on those roads for a good 15-20 miles. On the way back home I was shooting along maintained gravel roads that were wash boarded pretty badly and I believe it must have come off at one of those time frames. It must have been a case of under tightening. My prior issues with galling had me gun shy about over-tightening and now I apparently went the other direction! Time for a torque wrench maybe???:var_6:

I hadn't touched the axle nut in the last few months because the chain has been in spec and didn't show any movement in the nut until yesterday when it came off. I think I just rattled the damn thing off. Something to keep in mind.


Forgot to mention, the galled nut was replaced with an OEM fuji nut.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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A Fuji nut can't rattle off unless the sheet metal tang was broken or worn out.
 

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Excellent point Greywolf...I guess that is the whole concept of the nut design afterall! :thumbup:

Perhaps too much anti-seize was put on in combination with under tightening? I put a new OEM nut on this afternoon with a very small dab of anti-sieze and torqued to 60 ft-lbs. Lets hope this stays! I am thinking about going to the nut from the guys at Holeshot....
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Like I said. I've never heard of a nut coming off by itself and don't see how it could unless the nut was changed to an ordinary one or the locking tab was damaged. It takes a tool to get it off, often two tools. The axle may need to be held in place to get the nut off without spinning the axle. It isn't going to vibrate off if it is in good condition.
 

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posting in this thread for easy bring back.

I always used anti-sieze on my last bike so I have a jar of it sitting on the maintenance shelf.

chain. that's a new thing on a motorcycle for me, it sounds like I've got some research to do.
 

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Amateur question: Doesn't Loc-tite provide anti-seize properties by creating a thin layer of material between the two metal surfaces? If so, then would loc-tite be better than anti-seize for its holding capability?

Please set me straight; thanks!
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I don't see a need for Loctite because of the locking nut. Anti seize pretty much takes one application to last many changes. Loctite is best cleaned off before re-applying and it would need to be applied every time, not to mention the extra force required to break the bond.
 

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Hello,
I just picked up a 2012 Vee a few weeks ago, and at my 600 mile oil change (this weekend) I plan on installing my spacer mod. While prepping for the work I noticed a non-slotted nut, which led me here.

So, IF I am able to remove the nut from the axle, I should re-install with anti seize and torque to 58 ftlb?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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So, IF I am able to remove the nut from the axle, I should re-install with anti seize and torque to 58 ftlb?
I would if I were you. Most people have no problems with a dry installation but some people have. I have heard of zero problems using anti seize and 58lb-ft except one report of a nut coming off. Since its a locking nut, my best guess is it was removed by someone else. I can't see it happening without help. It certainly can't happen with a castellated nut and cotter pin.
 

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On my 2009 DL650, too...

Nothing new under the sun, is there? My 2009 650 has 23,000 miles, went to adjust the chain last night, couldn't get the (Fuji) nut off just like all the cases above. When I go back with the new axle and nut and Never Seize and 58 ft-lb torque, I'll safety wire the axle nut just in case.
Thanks to everyone on the thread for the stories and advice.
 

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Simple and easy.. "Stainless loves Stainless' .... meaning that it wants to gall and tear when mated under pressure....same reason it's a b*%*ch to machine without the perfect setup.... always use an anti-seize compound, and make sure it is a silver and not copper based anti-seize. Nuts that are self locking are and have always been designed for single use applications in manufacturing as a cheap short cut...if you can't secure with a castle nut and cotter pin and you don't use proper torque methods (hand tight guestimates are not something I bet my ass on even after 20+yrs) then next best thing is to safety wire/lockwire the nut. You have decide what is the best option for you, but if you trust your "feels tight enough" judgement on the one nut that keeps the back tire on...I'd recommend investing in some lock-wire pliers! ... again just my $0.02 :yesnod:

Cheers
 

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If you're not going to, or cannot, use a cotter pin or safety wire it might not be a bad idea to get yourself some torque seal (I'm not cool enough to post links but google it and you'll see what I'm talking about) and put a stripe on the axle nut so you have a visual indication of movement BEFORE your wheel falls off :var_15:
 
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