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Now you all have me scared.:mrgreen:

When I take mine off soon for a tire change I'll be soaking the nut in penetrating oil for a couple of days and then heating it really well with a torch before turning. That combo might help.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The problem is galling, cold pressure micro welds. If it is galled, the nut needs to be cut off. Oil and heat won't make a difference. Chances are it's fine. Just take the nut off normally and apply anti seize to prevent future problems.
 

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I bought a holeshot nut anyway and I'm glad I did. Its been on for about 1500 miles and hasn't moved. I don't have a problem paying a little for something that has been thought out. Once you get the original one off its obvious how flimsy it is. Plus it sounds like a small business and they had great service. So why not.
 

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I also just noticed he's getting 12 dollars for a 1-2$ nut... Don't you guys have hardware stores around? :yikes:
A stainless nut of that size will be more than $1-2 if you can find one at the Depot. Do try shopping locally, just make sure it is stainless.
 

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One solution is to use anti seize on the threads to prevent galling and to lower the torque to 55-60 lb-ft to allow for the lubrication effect. I have yet to hear of a single problem after doing it.
:headbang:I refuse to us GLEE to describe my bike..thats DUMMM:thumbdown:
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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aww crap

So when I adjusted my chain the other day just prior to 600 mile service, I had not read through these forums on the rear axle nut. Being relatively new to the mechanical world, I did put anti sieze on the axle but still torqued it to the 72 ft/lb spec.

have I just ruined my axle?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Probably not. Loosen and re-tighten to check.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Any good links to explanation of the lubrication effect?
Torque Tips is one. Other sites I've read in the past suggested 80% of dry torque ratings. I tried that and have not heard of a single issue with it.
 

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My rear axle threads stripped around 25,000 miles on my K8 DL650. Always used a torque wrench to 70 ft lbs and made sure the threads were dry. It had me wondering if there were issues with the original axle/threads. The castle nut did not fail. Where I retired from we had run into torque related failures and since then, always torqued dry.

Now I use the old stripped axle as a pilot to hold everything together from the opposite side while pushing the old axle out with the axle being used in the assembly while installing the rear wheel on the Vstrom & Ninja 650. The old axle makes a handy pilot tool. :thumbup:
 

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Informational read

Torque Tips is one. Other sites I've read in the past suggested 80% of dry torque ratings. I tried that nad have not heard of a single issue with it.
Thanks Greywolf, that was some great reading. I have a much better understanding of nuts and bolts than I ever thought possible! And now I won't be overtorqin' everything I set a wrench on. :thumbup:
 

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2007 wee 36,000m went to adjust chain and I noticed a valley in the axel where it looks like there are missing threads. Still had enough thread to install and torque axel nut but will order new 09 style axel and nut. wonder if I can use the new axel as a drift and install from right to left?
 

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Judging torque by feel...

I've worked on cars, motorcycles, yard equipment, etc, for about 40 years. Had many a success and failure while doing so, but in general I feel like I know what I am doing.

I loosened the axel nut the other day on my '08 650, checked the anti-seize, then re-tightened the axel nut by hand to what seemed like the right amount. Then I pulled out my high-dollar CDI brand Computorq III electronic torque wrench to check the torque. 30 lb-ft. Not 58, not 60, 30 lb-ft. I was off by 50%. I believe I have read before that even skilled mechanics can miss the correct torque amount by alot. I wasn't shooting for 60 lb-ft, I just tightened to what I thought was right.

I believe a skilled mechanic can reproduce a given "feel" on a fitting if he tightens that particular fitting over and over all day long, as in an assembly line procedure. But the right torque on a fitting that I might loosen once or twice a year? No chance.

I am a big believer in using a torque wrench.

So now I have a question. If I use "the big honkin nut from Holeshot", should I still use anti-seize, and what torque should I use?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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interesting thread, maybe a silly question but should i use loctite & antiseize together?
Grease and glue are not to be mixed.
 

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I went to adjust my chain yesterday (2005 DL650) and couldn't budge the rear axle nut. I even put a breaker bar on it and was probably up around 125+ foot-pounds and I think I moved it a bit but it wouldn't break loose. I've adjusted the chain several times without an issue but I guess if I followed Suzuki's instructions (which I did) then I over-torqued it.

I saw Greywolf said it needs to be cut off. Are you talking about a torch or a hack saw? Is this a dealer job, an independent shop job or do I have a shot as a DIY job? I hate paying the dealer for labor on something like this but really just want to do what's best to keep the bike in good shape.

Chris
 
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