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Yep, another rear axle with galled threads. Went to adjust the chain and right away noticed something wasn't right when trying to loosen the rear axle nut. It wanted to seize but I was able to get the cheap ass Suzuki slotted nut off. Sure enough there are several axle threads that are galled. Ordered a new axle and the self locking dual-star nut. I will not torque this up to the 72.5 foot lbs that is the spec, will probably torque to 60 foot lbs. After doing a bit of research I know I am not the only one with this problem, seems Suzuki has been selling quite a few rear axles for the DL650. Never had this happen in 35 years of riding motorcycles. My Wee is a 2006 and two weeks out of warranty but I called Suzuki anyway. Their response is there is no known issues with the axle (expected response) and bike is out of warranty but take it to a dealer and 'maybe' it will be covered as a good will gesture. I just told him all I wanted was a trustworthy fix to the problem and don't really care about the expense I have incurred. Right now the bike is out of commission until I get the new axle installed. After that I will take pics of the bad axle and give them to the dealer when I show them the bad axle. Don't have much faith that Suzuki will do anything for me though. Just out of curiousity I have thought of getting the bad axle tested for hardness as there are an unusual amount of these failing and I wonder if there are a bad batch of axles out there. Anyone had experience getting steel tested? Even with a Rockwell hardness test result I wouldn't know what values wound be acceptable. I'll probably just end up with a new axle and Dual-star nut, go with a lower torque and call it a day. But I sure am curious.

TM
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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One solution is to use anti seize on the threads to prevent galling and to lower the torque to 55-60 lb-ft to allow for the lubrication effect. I have yet to hear of a single problem after doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Pat, think I will use your solution. Anti seize with the combonation of the dual-star nut torqued to 55-60 looks like the winning solution.

TM
 

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Thanks Pat, think I will use your solution. Anti seize with the combonation of the dual-star nut torqued to 55-60 looks like the winning solution.

TM
I have seen a galled axle with dual star nut. Anti-seize use on it is unknown. I've been using a Holeshot nut for 3 years, since the time the problem happened to me.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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There is no mechanical stay on the Holeshot nut. It has more thread contact and shouldn't be a problem. Stock Stroms outside North America do not have cotters in most countries.
 

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Tom, I'm just curious, what locks the nut?
We've got lawyers designing bikes, I think, and they've got us by the nuts.

As Pat said, the Holeshot nut has significantly more thread surface area than the stock nut. I always torque it and it hasn't ever loosened. I'm willing to bet that the stock OEM crown nut wouldn't need that cotter pin if the full thread surface area were available.

I have a spare Holeshot nut and there are ten threads to fully grip the axle. The OEM nut has five. The threads where the flats have been cut on the OEM nut are useless.
 

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new axle for me too

I have a K8 DL650 which was last professionally serviced at 25,000km.
It now has 33,000 km.
I went to have my rear tyre replaced after 16,000 km only
to have the mechanics tell me that the axle was stuffed.

It was all they could do to tighten the RHS nut with one holding
the bike on the lift, another holding the LHS bolt and the third
guy putting everything into tightening the nut up so I could
ride home and think about what I wanted to do.

I elected to have new chain and sprockets as well as the new
Heidenau and axle; the bill was AUD $1111.

In retrospect I think I could have got another 10k km out of the
chain and sprockets.

Here's a pic if I can work it out.

Incidentally I also had a K4 and was adjusting the
chain and tightening the nut with a torque wrench.
Subsequently after riding the chain went tight on me and I'm
now sure that that axle was also galled !!!
 

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Combination of torque wrench use and Suzuki's too high torque spec are what cause these problems.
If you just do it by feel you'll be better off. The vast majority of stripped thread problems happen to guys with a torque wrench in their hands.
 
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Combination of torque wrench use and Suzuki's too high torque spec are what cause these problems.
If you just do it by feel you'll be better off. The vast majority of stripped thread problems happen to guys with a torque wrench in their hands.
+ 1 , i use feel most of the time , i only use a torque wrench for important jobs like flywheel bolts or cylinder bolts and such , even then i won't tighten a bolt/screw to torque specs if it feels over tight.
I removed my rear axle on the weekend to replace the tyre for the first time , it took two of us to remove the nut :thumbdown:, it undone about 1/2 a turn then locked , brute force and wd40 got it the rest of the way off. . I think i will be replacing the the locknut with a holeshot type from the local bolt shop .
Ozzy Strom
 

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Just happened to me too. Rear axle nut locked solid onto the bolt while it was still about four turns from being tight. It was never overtightened that day or any other. It's clear the problem is the bolt it too soft. I called Suzuki and they said they've never heard of this before and I told them Oh really? Yes that is right we've never heard about this before. I said Google V-Strom rear axle failure and you will read all about it.

I've been working on motorcycles for almost 40 years. I've been a professional heavy equipment tech for almost as long. 72.5 lb-ft of torque is the correct value for tightening the rear axle according to the factory manual (most full-size street bikes have a rear axle value between 65 and 73 lb-ft, so it's not unusual) and using a known calibrated torque wrench set to the correct value is the only safe way to tighten an axle, a cylinder head, handlebar pinch bolts, etc. The problem is bad parts in the system, nothing else.

It's pretty clear, Suzuki doesn't want to hear any bad news.
 

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I've got the same problem on my 2011. Have 5000 miles on it and went to tighten the chain but I can only turn the nut about 1/4 turn then it locks up solid. Called my dealer, as its still on warranty and they said they haven't heard of it before, but that I should bring it it. I didn't feel like trailering it 60 miles, as its mid winter here, so I bought the parts and thought I'd fix iit myself rather than make 2 trips- one to deliver it and then to pick it up. I put a 1/2 inch drive impact on it with no luck. Then even tried a 3/4 inch impact, and still no luck. Guess I will be taking it in to get them to screw around with it, rather than me spend time, that I don't have, on it. Just makes you wonder what kind of crap metal is holding me up from the pavement. Wonder how they keep getting away with it. if it was a GM, Dodge, etc. there would be recalls. But I guess its obviously not going to fall off or come loose. Wonder if half of these parts that the factories are using, aren't being sourced out of China, where anything goes, it seems???
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Stainless steel on stainless steel tends to gall. It's the nature of the material. Have the dealer apply anti seize and torque to 58lb-ft to account for the lubrication effect and the problem will not occur again. Yes, Suzuki should have figured this out by now and changed the procedure. There have been zero reports of problems after using the procedure.
 

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Thanks for this info. I'm going to take my 2012 rear axle nut off, put anti-seize on it, then snug it back down by hand. I do have torque wrenches, but, I've worked on Motorcycles for over 40 years, and I think I can tell when I've reached the correct German torque: Gutentite. :yesnod:

BOY, was that OEM torque tight. I had an 18 inch long 1/2 inch drive and had to really muscle it to get it to budge. It's now anti-seized and snugged up nicely. Glad I didn't wait to do this...
 

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Thanks for this thread guys. The take away for me and my '11 Wee with 5k miles and due for a new rear shortly, is to buy a couple Holeshot bolts and washers when I put on the new tire and replace the oem ones preventatively...and maybe save myself the cost and aggravation of an axle bolt down the road. I'm usually of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school but this definitely sounds like a design error and something that will occur sooner or later. Worth the peace of mind.
I don't wrench enough to trust my torque wrench "feel", and not sure if it's accurate to a 10% tolerance, either.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It's not a design error but a procedure error. Large SS fasteners need anti seize. Replacement won't help. Non SS will rust or be plated. Anti rust plating on the nut in contact with a SS axle can create dissimilar metals corrosion. SS on SS can gall. Just get some anti seize.
 

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Am I the only one who doesn't trust an un-locked axle nut? There are very few bolts on ANY of my bikes w/o a lock nut or lock washer, or on occasion, loctite. In the many times I've had my rear wheel off, and "torqued" the rear axle nut by feel, I've had 0 problems. The axle is still near perfect, with about 35k on the bike.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The old nuts were castellated and locked with a cotter pin. The new ones are Fuji style with a sheet metal grabber. Most people will never have a galling problem. The potential is there though so I recommend not taking chances.
 

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I also just noticed he's getting 12 dollars for a 1-2$ nut... Don't you guys have hardware stores around? :yikes:
 
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