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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks,

I brought my '05 Wee in to my preferred mechanic tonight to get my chain tightened, as it'd somehow gone from about 1" of slack to about 2.5" recently.

We discovered that the axle nut was almost completely stripped, as was a good portion of the axle's threading. The cotter pin may have been the only thing actually holding it together. Whoever serviced the bike before now, seems to have really bunged things up and over-torqued the axle nut.

Goes without saying, we'll be ordering a replacement axle+nut set tomorrow. He wasn't sure about pricing but suggested a new axle would probably be in the $40-50 range.

Can anyone confirm how much this should cost (CDN$ if possible)? Local dealerships' sites don't seem to list any prices for OEM parts.


Also, I bought the bike with 24k on it, now sits close to 30k. I have no idea what was/wasn't serviced prior to purchasing it. Is it worth spending the money to have the valve clearance check done, maybe replace spark plugs etc if there don't appear to be any performance issues with the bike? It's been suggested to me that V-Stroms often don't require valve adjustments until closer to the 50k mark, but I honestly wouldn't know how to tell (if you even can) if it needs to be done. All I know that's been done, is the brand new tires installed at the dealership when I bought the bike, as well as 2 oil changes (semi-synth at purchase, full-synth a few days later as I felt the oil looked too dark/dirty already...)

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The axle problem was greater for bikes around that era. Improper heat treating was suspected. Get a new axle and a 2009 axle nut that is not castellated, using a different locking mechanism from the castle nut. Use anti seize on the thread and torque to 58lb-ft. Nobody who has done this has reported further problems. The nut is part number 08319-3118A and is about $15 USD. The axle is 64711-03F00and more like $75-80 USD.

The only way to know about the valve condition is to check it. See the poll at http://www.stromtrooper.com/information-vault/43389-valve-clearance-adjustment-poll-those-who-have-done-had-done.html and ask yourself if you feel lucky. Stock spark plugs are good for over 20,000 miles and Iridium replacements for over 100,000 miles.
 

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Try Safari Cycle Long Beach Cali should be 1/2 price

See if you can examine the bearing spacer as it may have been crushed a little.

More than likely it was just cross threaded and destroyed.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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More than likely it was just cross threaded and destroyed.
Not the case at all. The threads galled together and the axle's threads came off on the nut. This used to be a common problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
... Get a new axle and a 2009 axle nut that is not castellated, using a different locking mechanism from the castle nut. ... The nut is part number 08319-3118A and is about $15 USD. The axle is 64711-03F00and more like $75-80 USD.
Damn, that's more than I was hoping it'd cost. But need it anyway... I got a different part# for the axle, 03F10 instead of 03F00; yours listed as being for the '07-09 models, mine the '05-06. Does it still fit and just have that different locking mechanism, or should I stick to what my dealership site lists? (see below)


See if you can examine the bearing spacer as it may have been crushed a little.
I was thinking of telling the shop to order a few extra parts including the spacers (there are 2 listed online?) anyway; hopefully they don't cost too much.


These are the part#'s according to my local dealership, should I be alright with/do I need to order all of these?

AXLE, REAR - 64711-03F10
NUT - 08314-40187
WASHER - 09160-18030
PIN - 04111-4040A
SPACER, REAR AXLE LH - 64751-27G00
SPACER, REAR AXLE RH NO.2 - 64741-10F00
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The spacers are fine. Rich is not familiar with this particular situation. All you need is the axle and nut. The only difference between the two axles came between the '08 and '09 models. The earlier axle was cross drilled for the cotter pin of the castellated nut. In '09, the system was changed to a self locking Fuji nut. The '09 nut will still work with the earlier cross drilled axle but not the other way around. I have an '09 nut on my '07 bike along with the stock drilled axle.

An advantage of the later nut, besides not having to play with a cotter pin, is it has a larger surface area of thread contact since it isn't castellated. More area means less pressure on the threads and pressure causes galling. Anti-seize along with 58lb-ft torque to allow for the lubrication effect will prevent galling in either case. Also, the bad heat treatment problem is largely a thing of the past.
 
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