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Discussion Starter #1
On Saturday while trying to adjust the chain on a 2009 Wee with 2800 miles I
could not get the nut to turn past 3/4 of a turn loose.

I tried to re-tighten and it would not do that either.

I rode it down to the dealer where I had purchased it and explained the
situation. They could not get it to turn with out a very long breaker bar and
working the nut back and forth, loose then tight then loose again to get the nut off. When it came off, the threads at the base of the axel against the swing arm were screwed up really bad. Now I have never had the nut off, no reason, and only loosened it for chain adjustments and always retorqued to 70 lbs with a beam type torque wrench. When they had gotten it off and replaced the axel and nut they torqued it to specs. When I got home I used my torque wrench to see if it was off but at 70 lbs it didn't even try to turn the nut so I'm feeling pretty sure I didn't over tighten by mistake previously. Even though they treated it as warranty I'm pretty concerned that this axel screwed up so easily from standard chain adjustment procedures.

Has anyone else run into this? Remember this is the new axel setup with the
locking type nut versus the cotter pin set up.

Thanks for any input,

Joe
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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38,048 Posts
For the third time:

It's not uncommon for the rear axle nut and axle to gall. There have been
many reports of this problem. What I do is apply anti seize to the threads
and torque to 58lb-ft instead of 72.5lb-ft to make up for the lubrication
effect of the anti-seize. A lubricated thread is commonly torqued to 80% of
a dry thread. Do that and you will never have the problem again. Leave it
dry and it can happen again. Stainless steel on stainless steel loves to
cold weld together under pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the information.

I wasn't sure if this had carried over to the set up for 2009 with the change away from the cotter pin.

Joe
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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38,048 Posts
SS on SS can always be a problem. The greater area of contact of a non cottered nut should reduce the pressure, but it looks like it can still happen.
 
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