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Discussion Starter #1
G'day all,

I've got the Eastern Beaver PC-8 mounted and ready to go, although I haven't installed the main fuse as yet.

How do I actually install my circuits? At which point in a circuit is the wiring actually routed through the PC-8?

To use a very simple illustration, if I want to mount a couple of CREE LED's as Daytime Running Lights (e.g. They'll come on automatically whenever the ignition is on), what would the wiring look like? Do I simply run the positive wire to the positive side of the PC-8 and the negative to the negative side (on the switched side of the PC-8 obviously)?

In a more complex circuit such as the one for the Stebel Nautilus horn, where in that circuit would the PC-8 come into play?

I guess where I'm getting confused is that the PC-8 already has connections to the positive & negative battery terminals and I'm struggling to see why I have to connect both sides..... I get that the power lead for the accessory goes to the positive side, but can't work out where the negative lead goes, given that the PC-8 is already connected to the negative side :confused:

That's why the title says "Really Dumb Question...." :thumbup:
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The PC8 has positive and negative connections because any electrical device needs both to create a circuit. In any equipment diagram that shows the equipment connected to a battery, take the two battery leads and connect them to the PC8 instead. The difference is the PC8 includes a fuse so the fuse on the wire to the positive battery lead in the equipment diagram is not needed. Just put a fuse of the same value in thr PC8. It's called a circuit because it is a loop, like a circuit around a race track. Power goes from positive to the load, like your lights or horn, and returns to the negative. Remove either and the circuit is defeated and power does not flow just like racers cannot race if there is a break in the circuit they are running.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Greywolf - that clears it up nicely.

I think my confusion was arising because I wasn't sure which part of the circuit needed to pass through the PC-8. Now I know it's the "power" leg.

If I have a simple circuit for low-powered devices, such as USB outlets to charge a phone/GPS or some LED lights (basically devices that don't require a relay), and I want the ability to turn said circuit on/off, can the switch be placed anywhere in the circuit? I guess the only proviso would be that it be capable of handling the current in the circuit?

On a high-power circuit that is triggered via a relay, where would the on/off switch go? On the circuit that actually causes the relay to switch on?

Thanks for your outstanding assistance!
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The switch should be on the positive side of the power circuit between the PC8 and the load. If a relay is used, the switch should be on the wire feeding the positive trigger wire to the relay so the relay shuts off when the switch is off.
 

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Dave.A

I feel your pain! I think I am getting the hang of understanding some of this electrical stuff - Thanks to Greywolf!. It is certainly very confusing when you came with no electrical experience as I did. Hang in there!! and thanks Greywolf our savior!!
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Dabble in 12VDC two rail model railroading for a while. It will teach you circuit theory. So will high school physics.
 

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Dabble in 12VDC two rail model railroading for a while. It will teach you circuit theory. So will high school physics.
I don't remember if I was ever in high school!!:headbang:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, High School was a long, long time ago!

I think I have a fairly good basic understanding of electrics.... it's just the PC-8 & how it fits into the circuit that threw me a bit!
 

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I'm going to add that you HAVE to run a negative wire back to the PC8. You can't ground (negative) to the bike's frame like you can in a car. Because the V-Strom uses aluminium and steel frames bolted together, current through the frame, combined with a bit of dirty water, would quickly damage the frame junctions. So, you need to run TWO wires to everything.
 

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Since this is PC-8 oriented, I was thinking of getting one of these to mount up on a 2002 DL1000. I need to clean up some wiring that the PO has installed and most of it works ago but it does look like a start of a birds nest. I was curious if anyone has mounted the PC-8 up under the fairing or is there any cautionary comments someone might have in regards to doing so??
 

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I'm going to add that you HAVE to run a negative wire back to the PC8. You can't ground (negative) to the bike's frame like you can in a car. Because the V-Strom uses aluminium and steel frames bolted together, current through the frame, combined with a bit of dirty water, would quickly damage the frame junctions. So, you need to run TWO wires to everything.
My preference is for a big negative wire run to the front of the bike. I use a length of #12 green THHN stranded building wire from the hardware store to make an "extension" of the battery negative post. I put a ring terminal on the front end of my #12 wire, and I wire the negative side all my electrical add-ons to that ring terminal with a screw & nut. The positive wires go to the PC-8 (or without a PC-8 or other fuse box or to a fuse near the positive battery terminal).
 

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As long as we're talking PC-8 I have a question about the switched circuit. What would you hook up to the switched circuit? And what would you use to trigger that circuit? My first thought was heated grips clothing etc. so it doesn't drain the battery without the bike running. But most switched circuits use the tail light lead to trigger the switched circuit relay to turn on. The tail lights come on whenever the key is in the on position, whether the bike is running or not, so doesn't that defeat the purpose? P. S. I may have stumbled onto an answer when reading a VSRI post "basic VStrom wiring 101".> http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php?topic=1461.0 <They mention using the high beam as a switched lead. You could run a wire from the high beam back to the relay coil, add a coil holding circuit wire to the load output wire & bingo no switched circuits coming on unless you tap the high beam flash to pass or high beam switch. Unless someone has a better idea.
 

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The tail light as a trigger will only leave the grips on with the ignition off if you leave the ignition in P(ark). Using any orange/green wire, such as the power feed to the rear brake light switch, as a trigger wire would eliminate the P situation. Why would you leave the ignition on with the bike not running? Only that would defeat the purpose of a switched circuit.
 

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The tail light as a trigger will only leave the grips on with the ignition off if you leave the ignition in P(ark). Using any orange/green wire, such as the power feed to the rear brake light switch, as a trigger wire would eliminate the P situation. Why would you leave the ignition on with the bike not running? Only that would defeat the purpose of a switched circuit.
Greywolf, Thanks for explaining. Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. So the heated auxillary whatever you have connected, would only be on for the short time between, turning the key, flipping the main power switch & pushing the start button. Got it. Dantrax
 
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