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Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody noticed a noise probably coming from the front housing at around 6000 rpm? In 3rd gear at 6000 rpm is quite noticeable. This started right after the recall work, so I suspect the dealer's mechanic left something not properly attached. It sounds like a metallic or plastic vibration. I'm taking the bike back to the dealer tomorrow. I couldn't find a thread about it. Thanks!
 

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My bike didn't have wiring harness recal but I had the same problem. The only thing I messed with was front dash. Removed it many times, installed some wiring inside it, later one relay, then adjusted front light hight... The buzzing noise appeared a year ago. I got crazy trying to find a source. Opened the dash again so many times, changed all zipties, rerouted all the wires I installed. No joy, buzzing persisted. Then it simply disappeared one day without me touching anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks bosnjo. The dealer explained that the recall work involved the harness reaching all the way to the ignition key assembly, which is right there underneath the dash. Tomorrow I will tell them to check that area. They said that if the problem was of their doing they would fix it at no cost. I have little hope. Thanks for the tip.
 

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That's one of those things that could be very difficult to locate, since you can't probe around while your bopping down the highway. Could just be something like a cable or connector that got slightly displaced and is now buzzing against a fairing, frame, or trim piece. And if it's in an inaccessible location... Good luck, let us know if you figure it out.
 

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It sounds like a metallic or plastic vibration. I'm taking the bike back to the dealer tomorrow. I couldn't find a thread about it. Thanks!
Do you have crash bars?

I had the same exact symptom on my Glee "adventure" with the stock crash bars. I finally tracked it down to a cracked weld in the bars. I taped the hell out of it with electrical tape until I was able to replace the bars. No more buzz.

If you have bars, and they're not cracked, maybe the dealer didn't tighten the mounting bolts completely. If you don't have bars...Well...Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I took the motorcycle to the dealer and after a day's work they said is the Givi crash bars. Specifically the left one. Possibly something shifted when they did the recall. They went through the wiring harness connectors, added tie ups, checked padding on plastic pannels. Eventually the mechanic test rode the bike, noise still there. He pulled up the left bar while riding at 6000 rpm and noise abated. At the shop he tried to shift the bar down a bit. Less noise but still there. I may remove them and offer them on ebay.

My conclusion is that, if the Suzuki bars don't buzz, maybe Suzuki is testing their design to make sure they don't. Maybe Givi designs these bars for the Vstrom 1000 but do not conduct enough testing. Just speculation.

Dealer did not charge for this work.

Bosnjo do you have Givi crash bars installed?
 

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I took the motorcycle to the dealer and after a day's work they said is the Givi crash bars. Specifically the left one. Possibly something shifted when they did the recall. They went through the wiring harness connectors, added tie ups, checked padding on plastic pannels. Eventually the mechanic test rode the bike, noise still there. He pulled up the left bar while riding at 6000 rpm and noise abatedbaAt the shop he tried to shift the bar down a bit. Less noise but still there. I may remove them and offer them on ebay.

My conclusion is that, if the Suzuki bars don't buzz, maybe Suzuki is testing their design to make sure they don't. Maybe Givi designs these bars for the Vstrom 1000 but do not conduct enough testing. Just speculation.

Dealer did not charge for this work.

Bosnjo do you have Givi crash bars installed?
I have the Givi with no buzzes. I'm assuming that all the mounting bolts were checked for tightness. If you have that plastic piece that clamps around the bars, did you check that?
 

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Yes, I have Givi bars. I haven't touched them but there is no noise anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have the Givi with no buzzes. I'm assuming that all the mounting bolts were checked for tightness. If you have that plastic piece that clamps around the bars, did you check that?
Good point G-Dub! I'll check the plastic piece.

Yes, I made sure all bolts and nuts securing the crash bars were tighten to spec, using a torque wrench.
 

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Just remembered what happened on my friend's 2015 Veek with Givi bars. He had very strong buzz on 5000 rpm. He did lot of testing and he found out it was the left bar. He'd simply grab it with his hand on 5000rpm and buzzing would stop. He came to my house saying he checked all the bolts and everything was nice and tight. Then I came up with different idea. We've loosen all bolts in order to have the bars relaxed and just then tighten them back. When I was unscrewing one of the last bolts (or nuts, I can't remeber), I heard big "clonck". The left bar has moved. Then, after making sure all of the bolts were loose, we tighten back everything and he's never had the buzzing again. My case was different, but on his bike it was as explained above.
Try that approach.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will try that approach! The bars were not perfectly aligned to begin with. You' d have to muscle a bit to align the last bolt shared with the radiator.
 

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Yes, that's the bolt I hate the most.
When I dropped mine on left side (while stationary), the bracket where that bolt goes bent badly. It was huge job to bring that bracket back into its shape again. I already had a thread here where I complained about how easily that bracket bend on small drop. Even my radiator bracket bent, just a bit. The bolt was bent as well so I had to replace it. It looks like that little bracket takes a lot of punishment in case of stationary drop.
I plan to trade this bike in sometimes in September/October for 2017 model and I'll let Givi bars go with it and get Heed bars for new bike.
 

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Why have I never heard of the Heed bars? They look nice and with the two crossover bars seems like it would give them a lot of strength. Haven't researched, but may be difficult to find in the US.
 

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I've done a lot of research about Heed bars. They are one little independent factory with excellent quality/price relation. I've contacted them already and they'd dispatch their bars all over the world. They also sell on eBay all the time.
Not many reviews about their bars for DL1000 but found quite a few about bars for other bikes and all reviews were excellent.
I just don't know if they'd fit 2017 model as the top crossbar goes just bellow the beak, almost touching it and on 2017 the beak is bit fat, so I don't know. I guess I'll have to buy them and see myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I removed the Givi bars. The noise is still there. I will listen to to the buzz for a few days, trying to pin point where is coming from, and then see if I can disassemble and assemble back the plastic panels on the left, in front of the tank.
 

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There are a lot of removable parts. You should remove all you can and go for a ride without as many parts as you can. I'm not sure but I think you can even remove the dash with ODO and ride without them. If noise's gone, then it's easy. Put one part at the time and go for a ride until you find the noisy part.
As I said, in my case Givi bars weren't a problem but something behind the ODO.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Humm.. Thanks bosnjo. Once again, good advice.

Behind the odo is where the dealer made a connection as part of the electrical harness recall.
 

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Having on mind the doubt if you can run the bike without ODO, why not just remove the ODO and the cover and do a test run without removing any other parts? If the dash is the source of the buzz then without the cover and ODO the buzzing will either dissappear or get louder.
Now, on more tought.
I've done a lot of things behind odo after I made sure the dash was the source of my buzzing problem. I don't know what fixed it. I've done a lot of cable ties renewal, put one more pair of springs for the windshield inside existing springs, etc, etc. And just today, thinking of your problem, I remembered one more thing I've done, that could be "the thing".
At the time I was researching the source of buzzing, I noticed my ODO didn't look too secured. If I touched it on the top I could see it was moving a bit in-out. I didn't like that. After studying the way it was secured, I understood that it had screws (or screw) fixing it on the bottom of the dash cover but no screws at the top. On the back of the ODO there is a big plastic pin that goes inside one rubber grommet when you close the dash cover. So, it was moving inside the grommet, there was too much space. I started to think about how to make the bracket to fix the top of the ODO to the cover and I mentioned it to my dealer (he's good friend of mine) and he said:
"No, there is a simple fix I use on different bikes for many years. Put one or two rubber washers (those that plumbers use) on the plastic pin before you push the ODO into the grommet."
I came back home and done that. 10 minutes job from start to end.
ODO is now rock-tight. I used two rubber washers. Now I just have to be careful if I remove the cover and pull ODO, not to loose the washers. And putting it back in requires some attention with washers, like securing them with your finger before the pin enters its grommet.
If I remember something else, I'll let you know.
 

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I had the same exact thing occur at exactly 6300 RPM but on my 650XT. It definitely sounded like it came from the instrument cluster. Motor7...did you ever notice it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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OK, I feel stupid for asking, but what is the ODO? I normally think of odometer, but that's not a separate unit.
 
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