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Discussion Starter #1
Last night I took a small trip on my Wee, just about 130 miles roundtrip. Journey there is fine, way back is fine. But as I'm pulling into my apartment complex, there's this sound that just isn't right. It sounds like some kind of friction that isn't supposed to be happening.

Anyway, I park the bike and start looking around for the culprit. I take a look at the chain, and all of a sudden there is no slack in it. None! I couldn't move it up or down more than 1/2 a millimeter! It was dark, late, and cold by the time I got back so I didn't really have time to do too much about it. I'm gonna go take a look here in a couple minutes...

Any idea what could cause such a turn of events? I'm clueless. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I went out to adjust the chain, and I got some slack in it, but it felt like I was having to loosen the adjustment bolts way too much. Going by the reference marks on the swingarm, it's about midway between the 5th and 6th tick mark on each side.

If I had gone even looser, the flat silver rear-ends of the swingarm felt loose themselves.

I'm fairly new to the "self-maintenance" game so it's hard for me to even know what to really look for on this kind of stuff. The chain "looks" fine to me. Is there any kind of measurement or spacing between the pins that needs to be met for specs?
 

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Did you loosen the axle before the adjustment and tighten it afterward? To loosen the chain, the axle has to be loose and the adjusters loosened beyond what is required and the wheel moved forward. A big rubber mallet can help with that. Then the adjusters can be tightened to move them back to where they are needed for proper positioning and the rear blocks won't be loose. Finally, remove the axle nut and apply anti seize to the axle threads, then torque the axle nut to 58lb-ft while holding the axle in place with a wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I definitely loosened the axle nut when attempting to loosen the chain. For added ease of moving the wheel while attempting all this, is it okay to perform these tasks while on a paddock stand?

I guess I'll give it another go and do as you suggested. It will be ok if the rear blocks seem loose at first? And then while tightening everything back up they'll be as if normal?
 

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I guess I'll give it another go and do as you suggested. It will be ok if the rear blocks seem loose at first? And then while tightening everything back up they'll be as if normal?
No. Push the whole rear wheel forward and that will pull the adjusters back snug. Slightly tighten the axle nut, not very tight, just snug. Then tighten the adjusters which will pull everything into tension. Finally tighten the axle nut.

As GW said, if you have to loosen the adjusters loosen more than you need to, push everything forward, and then start tightening them back up so that everything is under tension.
 

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It sounds like a worn out chain and/or sprockets. If the teeth on the sprockets are 'leaning', or asymetrical, the chain tightness will vary with nearly every rotation of the wheel because the teeth are ramped or wedge shaped. I bet by changing chain and sprockets your bike will run quieter and smoother and your chain will have a more uniform tightness and it will be easily adjustable.
 

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You really need your tire off the ground during adjustment.

Edit: I should have said alignment instead of adjustment. Tensioning adjustment is fine on the sidestand.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well problem is solved for now. Got it up on the paddock stand and gave it a swift kick to the rear! Everything is snug on the back end and there's plenty of slack. I'll keep an eye on it over the next couple days but it looks like I'm in the clear. Thanks for the help!
 

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Well problem is solved for now. Got it up on the paddock stand and gave it a swift kick to the rear!
Check and double check the tension AFTER you take the bike off the paddock stand and have it resting on the side stand. The owners manual gives the required slack when the bike is on the side stand not on a main or paddock stand. If you adjust to what you think is the correct tension on a paddock stand it will actually be incorrect when you go back to the side stand.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I gave it an extra quarter inch or so just so that under load it would be closer to specs. I usually keep mine on the looser end of the spectrum anyways...

Put about 40 miles on it this afternoon just around town and tension seems about perfect as of now. Still don't know what the initial culprit could have been.
 

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When you checked your chain, was it in neutral with no tension on the chain. I checked mine ONCE with it in gear and tension on the chain. Very tight. Took me awhile to figure that one out.

RwageR
 
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