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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to raise tubes 10mm, without success. Bike on centerstand, front tire on ground. Left upper and lower triple clamps completely loose, yet fork tube will not rotate or slide up at all. Should i loosen triple clamps on both sides? Am concerned about front end collapsing if both sides are loose, but can place a floor jack under engine as a precaution. Any tips are appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
 

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The wheel is still connected to the other end of them (both). Loosen them both up and move them up then. It's on the center stand, so it will not be a problem.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Did you loosen both bolts on the lower triple clamp? There's no reason loosening one side shouldn't work. Did you push down on the handlebars with one side loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, loosened both 12mm bolts on lower triple clamp, sat on bike and pushed on handle bar. Do have a fork brace, might need to loosen that as well, though if machined properly, should not be tweaking the fork tubes. Weird thing is the fork tubes cannot be rotated by hand, so something is causing binding. Loosening 1 side at a time seems safer, but might try loosening both with a floor jack ready to catch bike.
Thanks for the answers,
Mark
 

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You have to loose up both sides on upper and lower triple clamp. Don't worry about collapsing of the front end since forks are on an angle so you even have to use some down force to move forks up over the triple clamp.

This is dangerous enough to prompt me to warn against it. Be very worried. GW
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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You don't have to loosen both sides. I've adjusted one side at a time more than once on two bike with fork braces. Not being able to rotate the tube is very strange.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Yes it will. Put a socket on the top cap and it can be turned with the pinch bolts loosened. Maybe hit the cap with a rubber mallet in case the tube is corroded to the triple clamp.
 

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Actually the only logical reason that the tube will not turn if everything is loose is ----"the tube is corroded to the triple clamp."
Either way, you'll get it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Was thinking of hitting interface between clamps and tube w penetrant, but friction is what will hold it together on the road, so no lube. Turning top cap should do the trick! Thanks, GW.
Mark
 

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I think I know what is going on.

If the bike is on a center stand the forks are likely fully or very nearly fully extended. Trying to pull up a single loose fork tube with the other side bolted in will be tough due to the weight of the wheel/fork assembly and the spring action from the other side.

First make sure the bike is completely supported. Bikes have tipped to the front while on the center stand with both fork tubes loose. Don't ask me how I know, but an ST1300 is a REALLY heavy bike!

While on the center stand you can add weight to the rear of the bike or support the engine or skid pan so it can't tip forward.

Loosen both upper and lower fork tube bolts and both sides.

Now your going to have to lift the weight of the whole front end to get the tubes up so a helper is a good idea. If you need to do by yourself you can slide a piece of lumber under the wheel to lift it up.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I can't imagine any difficulty getting the front to drop with one fork tube properly loosened unless it is corroded in place or the triple clamp is distorted somehow. In fact, the weight of the bike being held by only one fork tube tends to raise the other tube to just about the point you want. I found it very easy to lower the front one side at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This discussion about my difficulty in raising rhe fork tubes is making me wonder about the "why". Admittedly a bit better/quicker handling and a slightly shorter distance to ground are the reasons, having read about the downside, namely a greater liklihood of front end ocillations is giving me second thoughts. Was going to go with 10mm change, but maybe simply increasing front end sag will accomplish the same result, with easier reversal should the results not be desireable. Do remember GW saying the change in fairing/winshield angle actually increases high speed stability in spite of decreased trail and rake. Does this make sense or am i overthinking it all?
Thanks,
Mark
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Lowering the front helps Wees and Vees aerodynamically as the stock plastics lighten the front at high speeds. Glees don't have that ramp under the fairing that causes front end lift at speed and their longer shock already lowers the angle of attack. Vee2s not only don't have that ramp, but the beak causes an aerodynamic down force.

Bikes being lowered in the rear are best lowered in front too.
 

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I know this is probably not it but I'm trying to remember.. but there one more bolt on the bottom triple tee compared to the top? Is it possible one bolt on each lower was missed?

..Tom
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Covered in post #4, although the bolts have 8mm shanks and 10mm heads. I assumed that was just an error in memory about 12mm.
 

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This discussion about my difficulty in raising rhe fork tubes is making me wonder about the "why". Admittedly a bit better/quicker handling and a slightly shorter distance to ground are the reasons, having read about the downside, namely a greater liklihood of front end ocillations is giving me second thoughts. Was going to go with 10mm change, but maybe simply increasing front end sag will accomplish the same result, with easier reversal should the results not be desireable. Do remember GW saying the change in fairing/winshield angle actually increases high speed stability in spite of decreased trail and rake. Does this make sense or am i overthinking it all?
Thanks,
Mark
I am also starting to question whether I will lower mine.
 
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