[Dirt_Dad]

This was a new one for me. Riding 300+ miles home today from New York. Outside temps in the low 90s and I notice I'm seeing 3 bars on the temp gauge more than normal. I stop and I hear a gurgling sound. A check of the overflow tank shows the level about an inch or more over the full line.

About 3 minutes later I look again and the overflow tank is completely empty. Restart the bike and at speeds less than 50 MPH the gauge is always reading 3 bars. 50 and over it goes back to 2 bars.

I found some wet spots on the left of the crankcase and I assume my top hose is leaking. That's easy enough. I assume the gurgling is from air getting sucked into the hose.

The thing I'm confused about is the disappearing fluid in the overflow tank. Is that expected behavior? I witnessed this on two different stops. Is that just what happens when there is air in the system?

 

[SCraig]

As the engine heats the pressure in the system forces excess coolant into the reservoir tank. If the tank fills it overflows overboard. As the engine cools and pressure reduces, coolant is pulled back from the reservoir. If more fluid is needed than is in the reservoir air is pulled in.

As the coolant heats to the boiling point it can easily fill the reservoir and cause it to overflow, and then when it starts to pull the coolant back in as it cools there is not enough volume to fill the cooling system. Sounds like this might be what happened to you.

It could be that you've got a lot of air in the system, and air doesn't provide any cooling. Let everything cool down, fill the system at the radiator, and purge the air from it. If there are no other cooling system problems (i.e. bad water pump or something plugged) you should be OK. Also check the radiator fins for damage and make sure the electric fan comes on as it should.

 

[dancer]

As the engine heats the pressure in the system forces excess coolant into the reservoir tank. If the tank fills it overflows overboard. As the engine cools and pressure reduces, coolant is pulled back from the reservoir. If more fluid is needed than is in the reservoir air is pulled in.

As the coolant heats to the boiling point it can easily fill the reservoir and cause it to overflow, and then when it starts to pull the coolant back in as it cools there is not enough volume to fill the cooling system. Sounds like this might be what happened to you.

It could be that you've got a lot of air in the system, and air doesn't provide any cooling. Let everything cool down, fill the system at the radiator, and purge the air from it. If there are no other cooling system problems (i.e. bad water pump or something plugged) you should be OK. Also check the radiator fins for damage and make sure the electric fan comes on as it should.

Is there an exact process to determine the "as it should" requirement? Mine seems to hit three bars more often than it did, and I'd like to be certain the fan is operating "as it should"...

 

[SCraig]

The electric fan is controlled by a thermocouple. When it reaches a specific temperature it conducts and the fan comes on.

The thermoswitch is mounted on the right side of the radiator beneath the radiator cap. The way to test it is to remove it, support it and a thermometer in a pan of oil on a stove burner (the service manual specifically states to NOT let either the switch or thermometer come in contact with the pan so a hanger of some sort would have to be fashioned. It also specifically states to use OIL but I'm not sure why). Heat the oil, and monitor the conductivity of the thermoswitch with a multimeter. It should open (conduct) at approximately 208 degrees and then close again at approximately 198 degrees.

You'll loose some coolant and get some air in the cooling system when the switch is removed, so be sure to completely fill the radiator and purge the air. Lubricate the o-ring on the switch with engine coolant before reinstalling. Tightening torque on the switch is 12.5 ft/lb.

 

[PTRider]

It also specifically states to use OIL but I'm not sure why). Heat the oil, and monitor the conductivity of the thermoswitch with a multimeter. It should open (conduct) at approximately 208 degrees

If lived at an altitude of 2500' and tried this test it wouldn't work--the water would boil at 207.5°F.

Of course, using oil is a huge fire hazard. And if any water drops into the hot oil, the water drop will flash into steam and blow hot oil on to you--and the hot oil sticks on the skin and burns deep.

 

[janiceclanfield]

I was having this problem since replacing the rad on my Vee and recently running it in hot weather.

The solution was to fill the overflow tank to between the lines, run the bike 'til warm, then lean the bike WAY over both ways with the engine running.

The shop manual indicated to do this procedure, but I blew it off and as a result, had trapped air in the engine somewhere. Apparently, leaning the bike over allows the air to escape back into the overflow bottle.

I've run the engine to 3 bars a few times since 'burping' it and it hasn't overflowed yet.

It worked for me, anyway...

Good luck.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Fortunately I'm pretty familiar with the burping process. Performed it every time I've done a valve check. Never had any issues before.

Just glad this stuff is happening a month before the anticipated 4K mile trip next month. I'll happily deal with it from the comfort of home.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

The thermoswitch is mounted on the right side of the radiator beneath the radiator cap. The way to test it is to remove it, support it and a thermometer in a pan of oil on a stove burner (the service manual specifically states to NOT let either the switch or thermometer come in contact with the pan so a hanger of some sort would have to be fashioned. It also specifically states to use OIL but I'm not sure why). Heat the oil, and monitor the conductivity of the thermoswitch with a multimeter. It should open (conduct) at approximately 208 degrees and then close again at approximately 198 degrees.

I found the fan was not running when I expected, so I decided to do the official test.

I found mine was not starting to conduct until 237 degrees F (114 C). Turning off about the right temp (215), but not restarting again until 237. Looks like I'll be replacing the switch, too.

By the way, the thermometer in the photo was not accurate enough and had to be switched out for a digital probe. Not sure how the next turkey is going to taste flavored with old motor oil. :mrgreen:

 

[janiceclanfield]

Not sure how the next turkey is going to taste flavored with old motor oil. :mrgreen:

Not to mention the popcorn...

 

[T3/T4 Hybrid]

It looks like there are a couple of those switches going out! :headbang:


Not a hard item to change out and its good that you found it.

 

[SCraig]

I found mine was not starting to conduct until 237 degrees F (114 C). Turning off about the right temp (215), but not restarting again until 237. Looks like I'll be replacing the switch, too.

The numbers on the 1000 are slightly different from the 650 that I posted earlier. I think you may have looked them up yourself, but just to be sure, the thermoswitch should switch from off to on (begin conducting) at about 221 F / 105 C and then switch from on to off (stop conducting) at about 212 F / 100 C. Yours doesn't look real healthy.

 

[novascotia]

thermoswitch

what is the part number and where can I get one in Canada besides the Dealers, or is there a comparative one from another bike/car

 

[Dirt_Dad]

The numbers on the 1000 are slightly different from the 650 that I posted earlier. I think you may have looked them up yourself, but just to be sure, the thermoswitch should switch from off to on (begin conducting) at about 221 F / 105 C and then switch from on to off (stop conducting) at about 212 F / 100 C. Yours doesn't look real healthy.

I went by the service manual which is 100/105C.

The Suzuki part number for my 2006 is: 17680-33E00