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My question is, after cutting down the rubber pads on the seat to lower the height does the seat remain stable and or lock in as before ?

Has anyone removed them completely (the rubber blocks) and if so does the seat still lock and unlock as before ? I would hate to remove them and lock in my seat only to find out I can't get it to release now.

Has anyone purchased new rubber blocks for Suzuki and what was the cost of 4 of them ?
 

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I cut mine down and it locks (and unlocks) just fine. It is a little more loose (up and down play) when I'm not sitting on it but it does not move around at all while I'm riding.
 

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I cut mine down and it locks (and unlocks) just fine. It is a little more loose (up and down play) when I'm not sitting on it but it does not move around at all while I'm riding.
totally off on my Vee. dont really have to cut them, they will come out with force. easy to glue back in.

seat locks fine and does not move around
 

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I believe I saw a post about removing or cutting down the rubber bumpers that had also cut down the seat lock somehow.
 

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Cut mine in half on the '06 Wee with no issues. Glued 'em back on with PL Premium as they were prone to coming out when the seat was removed. You can save the off cuts for future use if you lose one.

Earl
 

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Rubber blocks are removable I suppose but make cause more feedback to your posterior?

Somewhat related: I removed the seat lock and associating hardware, the seat stays in place with the hooks on the bottom, comes off quickly when you want and there's more room for things underneath.
 

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I removed mine and replaced them with a thinner version (1/4" High density foam material). I found the seat was stable laterally but has a bit of up and down play, so I added some additional material (about 1/2" of the same foam) to the plastic "tongues" that insert at the front. It worked perfectly and I notice no difference in the comfort or ride.

I got about a 1/2 " lowering out of this and am able to almost flat foot.

On my new ride (just got a 2010) I'll do the same, and also install 3/4" lowering links from Murph's, and will lower the forks to the max allowed with the ABS. I don't know the measurement offhand but it's on the forum in other threads.
 

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On my new ride (just got a 2010) I'll do the same, and also install 3/4" lowering links from Murph's, and will lower the forks to the max allowed with the ABS. I don't know the measurement offhand but it's on the forum in other threads.
I just read in another post that without a fork brace you can drop the front 10-15 mm. With a front fork brace only 7-10mm.
 

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I removed mine and replaced them with a thinner version (1/4" High density foam material). I found the seat was stable laterally but has a bit of up and down play, so I added some additional material (about 1/2" of the same foam) to the plastic "tongues" that insert at the front. It worked perfectly and I notice no difference in the comfort or ride.

I got about a 1/2 " lowering out of this and am able to almost flat foot.

On my new ride (just got a 2010) I'll do the same, and also install 3/4" lowering links from Murph's, and will lower the forks to the max allowed with the ABS. I don't know the measurement offhand but it's on the forum in other threads.
This is a good idea as I can never be too close the ground with my short legs. I think I'll make some kind of wedge to attached to each seat 'hook' - or modify the hook slots - to take up the slack and keep things solid.

PS: I dropped my '07 forks 5/8" when I added Kevin Baker lowering links - rides and handles great. Larry's (or Ricks) peg lowering brackets add a level of comfort on longer rides and give you a quicker peg drag for added excitement in turns!
 
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