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I've owned several 650's and am going to tred into the world of 1000's.
Any inherent issues that I need to be aware of. Some one told me about the need to add a clutch basket. Duh? Every bike seems to have it's idiosyncrices. Would love some feedback. I'm excited about the additional power and plan on doing primarily long haul pavement riding.
 

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Based on a small sample poll, DL1000 Clutch Chudder annoyance poll , about half of DL1000s develop clutch basket chudder. A couple of people here have fixes. A new basket will wear into chudder again. It's a design problem.

The 1000's engine runs on the bleeding edge of lean requiring precise synching of the two throttle bodies and sometimes a remap of the fuel amounts. Such a remap is a violation of EPA regulations for a business such as a dealership to do and California, at least, prohibits sales of certain devices that can do it.

A rear wheel spacer exchange program is available that moves the rear sprocket 2mm farther into the rear hub. Proponents say it lines up the sprockets better and makes the rear rubber cushion blocks last longer as well as the sprockets and chains. Detractors say it's not needed.

The stock gearing is very tall. Many riders prefer 17/43, 16/43 or something else other than the stock 17/41. A sprocket change also changes the speedo and odo calibration so a speedo healer is a popular accessory.

The 1000 is not as busy but it's not as smooth or fuel efficient at lower speeds as the 650 either. The added power makes up for any such little idiosyncrasies for happy owners though. At higher speeds, the 650's struggle to push the air aside using less power can cause both bikes to have similar fuel economy.
 

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I've got an '06 1000. Never experienced the dreaded clutch chudder. Yeah, the bike lugs a bit below 4000rpm, but not that bad and I just keep it above there. Some people have issues, some don't. Check a few out and pick the one you like best.
 

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Based on a small sample poll, DL1000 Clutch Chudder annoyance poll , about half of DL1000s develop clutch basket chudder. A couple of people here have fixes. A new basket will wear into chudder again. It's a design problem.

The 1000's engine runs on the bleeding edge of lean requiring precise synching of the two throttle bodies and sometimes a remap of the fuel amounts. Such a remap is a violation of EPA regulations for a business such as a dealership to do and California, at least, prohibits sales of certain devices that can do it.

A rear wheel spacer exchange program is available that moves the rear sprocket 2mm farther into the rear hub. Proponents say it lines up the sprockets better and makes the rear rubber cushion blocks last longer as well as the sprockets and chains. Detractors say it's not needed.

The stock gearing is very tall. Many riders prefer 17/43, 16/43 or something else other than the stock 17/41. A sprocket change also changes the speedo and odo calibration so a speedo healer is a popular accessory.

The 1000 is not as busy but it's not as smooth or fuel efficient at lower speeds as the 650 either. The added power makes up for any such little idiosyncrasies for happy owners though. At higher speeds, the 650's struggle to push the air aside using less power can cause both bikes to have similar fuel economy.
Great synopsis. I think the 17/43 would be ideal. I have 17/45 and it is similar in gearing to 16/43 and I do not like how short it is now that my surging (lean) condition has been fixed.

Also, I think the chudder issue is much less now that it has been tuned a bit more rich in the low end. Yeah, it makes an annoying sound, but it just becomes part of the bike.

The spacer issue is interesting. My K3 looks about right and the wear from the previous chain and sprockets looked dead even too. This might be a bike dependent thing.

Gearing and richening are all the changes that need to happen in my opinion. Turns the bike into something enjoyable. Because it wasn't before!
 

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I would get the bike and take care of the throttle body sync and the secondary throttle plate sync first. Do a Throttle position sensor adjustment as well. I think you will find that will smooth out the bike plenty in the 2500 to 4000 range. If it develops fix the chudder. Mine or my wife's does not have the issue with the wheel spacer. When your in there doing your throttle body adjustments put in some NGK Iridium plugs.

With all of this done I don't find myself wishing for a gearing change. Before I yosh boxed my bike I was getting 50MPG quite regular. Now that I have used a yosh box I am down to 45MPG and I am considering setting it back to zero as the little it did smooth out is not worth the mileage drop.

GW is right when pushed hard the 650 does not see a significant increase over the 1000 in mileage. I think you will also find that the 1000 gets an undeserved bad rap because Suzuki choose to not do anything with these issues over the years.

Enjoy your new ride your in for a real treat.
 

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IMHO.......stick with the 650.:fineprint:
 

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If I was going to get a liter bike, especially an out of production one, it wouldn't be a Strom. But I'm strictly a pavement rider.
 

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I have a '07 Vee with about 20,000 mi and it has run perfectly, it performs well, gets excellent mileage (I have gotten 50 mpg a couple of times) and it marches over mountain passes with power to spare. I am a tall guy so it feels like the most comfortable bike I have ever owned, just because it fits me. My bike likes revs over 3500, and I'm happy to oblige.
 
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