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Be careful using @Hans471 advice above. That’s not how I was taught.

pH strips are dummy proof. The testing with a VOM meter is a little more involved. I may be wrong here, I’m sure I’ll get corrected.

One lead goes on the battery ground and the other lead goes in the coolant. The voltage values you are looking for I have recorded at home. There are some good YouTube videos how to do it.

My philosophy, use antifreezes CLEARLY LABELED non-silicate and non-borate. Honda and Toyota have this for their cars. I also ignore recommendations for coolant change intervals on all aluminum block engines and rely on voltage readings taken with a VOM.

My last advice. Different engines give different base voltage readings with new coolant. I take a reading after I change coolant and after driving the vehicle a couple days, then record it for the engine. Then I can see changes in real time.
 
As for the radiator cap? In my brain the system will exchange coolant with your vented reservoir every time it gets used. Air and oxygen will be in the cooling system. The radiator cap’s function is to maintain internal pressure and raise the boiling point of the coolant. The radiator cap has little to no contribution to corrosion (or prevention) and only requires replacement when it fails to hold adequate pressure.

BTW, I posted my procedure earlier in the forum somewhere…..for testing the coolant with the voltage values.
 
My Owner's Manual says to use (of course) the Suzuki OEM "good stuff", BUT! If that can't be had, to use a glycol-based antifreeze compatible with an aluminum radiator. Mix only 50/50 with distilled water. The Manual does not specify whether to use antifreeze with an Ethylene-glycol base or a Propylene-glycol base.

I say this because all are concerned with the "correct" anti-freeze but no one, unless I missed it, has mentioned a brand or specific mixture.

EDIT: It appears @dravnx mentioned Prestone and Engine Ice. From my limited research, Prestone uses an Ethylene-glycol as its base and Engine Ice uses Propylene-glycol. So, which would be better?
 
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I put what I use. Honda green non-silicate antifreeze for cars. I am pretty sure it is ethylene based. Cheaper since it comes in gallons and not quarts.
 

This tech references 300 mV (0.3 Volts) as the change coolant threshold. I have seen other techs recommend 0.4 Volts. This is why I check mine after I change it, so I know where I started.
 
This is a pretty good video explaining the different colors of anti-freeze and why we shouldn;t mix them. However, there is no mention of whether any of these is "glycol" based. Otherwise good. Touting a Prestone as one of the only solutions that can be mixed with others.
 
Man, you can sure go down a rabbit hole studying antifreeze. But my "limited" research shows this through SDS and Brand information:

Suzuki recommends using Suzuki Long Life Coolant or Suzuki Super Long Life Coolant. Both are ethylene-glycol based and silicate free.
Ecstar Coolant is ethylene-glycol based and silicate free.
Honda Type 2 is ethylene-glycol based and silicate free.
Prestone Regular or 50/50 is ethylene-glycol based and silicate free.
Engine Ice is propylene-glycol based and silicate free. (propylene is less toxic but is it acceptable by Suzuki? Quien sabe.)

My takeaway on this is key ingredients needed in your selection for antifreeze: ethylene-glycol based and silicate free
 
@StretchNM
I have been using Honda Type 2. It is green in color also. I use it since it’s cheaper by the gallon than motorcycle coolant and a good product.

For the cavemen that think oil is oil and coolant is coolant, the silicates are what attack the seals in a water pump. We seem to have our share of leaking water pumps here too.
 
People will drive across the country to sav $2.00 on a jug of antifreeze.And prolly not compatible to your application. ride your baby ,it likes it!

Then go out & buy a $300.00 bottle of whiskey.,with no problem.Don’t figure.
 
It's a motorcycle engine, not Falcon 9. Use any silica free antifreeze. These engines are about as low tech as you'll find on the road. You have a water pump, thermostat, hoses, a radiator, seals and some passage ways through an aluminum block.
 
From Pop Mechanics
The truth is, color is not a reliable predictor for what type of coolant you have. For example, OAT coolants are usually orange, yellow, red or purple. HOAT coolants are orange and yellow for the most part. Then the older IAT coolant is green. Coolants that manufacturers sell can confuse matters even more, like Honda’s blue coolant.
 
Yes, you need four spark plugs. My 2018 DL1000 did have iridium plugs from the factory. I had heart palpitations when I saw how much they cost! I changed them at 20,000 but they looked almost new. Next time will change at 50,000. I used the genuine Suzuki super-duper coolant; it wasn't THAT expensive and only needs to be changed every few years.
 
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Distilled water is always the way to go in batteries and radiators. Far too much junk in tap water, especially calcium.
 
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Distilled water is always the way to go in batteries and radiators. Far too much junk in tap water, especially calcium.
X 2 on this one. Although Hans didn’t say it, he obviously is recommending distilled water to top off a battery or to mix with your antifreeze 50:50, if you can find pure antifreeze anymore.

I even flush engines with distilled water instead of a hose. You never get all the water back.
 
Distilled water is always the way to go in batteries and radiators. Far too much junk in tap water, especially calcium.
👆 As the man said.......use distilled water to blend with your antifreeze....don't run straight water in the engine!! Same for the battery, use it to top off the battery, not fill it.
 
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