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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a new 18 xt 1000 strom and I've been reading about the TRE ( Timing Retard Eliminator). My question does it help? Also I keep reading that it turns off in neutral so the idle stays up. What if I stop at a traffic do I have to shift in neutral? Do I really need this thing? Any help would be appreciated...
 

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No you do not absolutely need it. There is a lot about TREs here on Stromtrooper and VSRI. Try teh search function for the most complete information. Or Google Stromtrooper TRE or VSRI TRE.

Also many kits out there to remove it. Most of the cheap fixes disable gear shift indication. However, at least one kit preserves the shift indication.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've searched and looked and all I can really find is on older models.. I thought Suzuki might have changed something on the 18 model..
 

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I just bought a new 18 xt 1000 strom and I've been reading about the TRE ( Timing Retard Eliminator). My question does it help? Also I keep reading that it turns off in neutral so the idle stays up. What if I stop at a traffic do I have to shift in neutral? Do I really need this thing? Any help would be appreciated...
What causes you to consider adding it to your new bike?
 

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C'mon, nobody wants to feel like they're missing out on a good modification. Nothing wrong with that, especially when you hear it eases the low RPM edginess, ever-present in Suzuki V-twin injection programming.
Just asking for the guy's thought on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It just doesn't feel right down low, like it doesn't have any power until it's 3500 rpm's.. I live in the mountains and ride super curvey roads, when I enter a curve I let off the gas and exiting the curve when I get back on the gas there's a jerk to its just not smooth.. I have a 16t front sprocket on order that might help it I'm not sure... In my search I saw the TRE but the idle part had me worried, will it idle if I just pull the clutch in or do I have to shift to neutral?
 

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I have one on my early 1000, mostly for track rides where I'm in 5th and 6th in the straight. My bike idles just fine with or without it, after dyno tuning.
 

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Let me try like this, it's the only way I can help:
Black connector, unplug it from ECU. Turn it the way the holes of the connector face forward (facing handlebars) and wires face towards the rear of the bike. Then, rotate the connector so the two wires get to the top row (both wires are the same color, black with green stripe). With the connector positioned like that, I remember the wrong wire was on the left (side of the bike) and the right one on the right side of the bike.
And all that if my memory serves me well. The worst thing you can do is install it to a wrong wire. The bike will throw FI code and engine light will turn on, like mine did. Then you have to move to the other wire. Error code and engine light will disappear after 10-15 minutes of bike running. No need to plug it to computer.
Read the manuals that comes with X-TRE. All instructions for 2014 model DL1000 are correct, except the position of the correct wire on the ECU connector. All the wires colors are correct.
DO NOT use the velcro straps to glue the X-TRE box inside the side plastic. It will fall off in few days. Use zipties to secure it somewhere near.
And about idle... Forget about it, it's not an issue. The problem simply doesn't exist. On idle, you can't say if you have X-TRE or no. The bike performs normally.
I see your problem about riding the bike on twisty roads on low rpm. I ride my bike on more or less same type of roads. So, there are few things I can say about it.
Firstly, and most important, this bike has been built to be ridden above 3000 rpm, never bellow. Riding it above 3500 rpm should be ideal for it. It took me a while on my first Strom to get used to it. It was back in 2012 on DL650. In 2014 I purchased new DL1000 and in 2017 new '18 model DL1000. They all perform the same about sweet spot of rpm. As I don't travel on freeways, the best upgrade I've ever done on both '14 and '18 bikes was to change front sprocket and install 16T. There is big thread about it, you need to read carefully and decide if you need it:
http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000a-2014-2016/312026-v2-16t-%3D-true-love.html
X-TRE was great upgrade too but more on '14 model. '18 model is more refined and installing X-TRE just made it perfect, for me. Engine braking is now progressive, it doesn't cut the fuel as soon as you close the throttle. It does it smoothly now. Then, and this may be important for you, it lets you use your bike at lower rpm's. However, this is not good for the bike as I said above, but if you need it, then X-TRE will help. You just have to decide which map to use. 4th is recommended by Healtech but I use 5th as I like it more. It's just up to you and your personal taste.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow Thanks so much for the help! I ordered the 16t sprocket the first time I rode, it's supposed to be here this week.. I'll probably go ahead and get the X-tre I'd read it really helps the older bikes but couldn't find any info on the newer ones.. The idle part had me scared off! Thanks so much for all the help, you guys are awesome..
 

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What causes you to consider adding it to your new bike?
C'mon, nobody wants to feel like they're missing out on a good modification. Nothing wrong with that, especially when you hear it eases the low RPM edginess, ever-present in Suzuki V-twin injection programming.
RPM edginess and injection programming...sorry but my '18 is smooth as silk especially compared to my last ride a '14 FZ09. For myself I would put $$ elsewhere on the bike.
 

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Wow Thanks so much for the help! I ordered the 16t sprocket the first time I rode, it's supposed to be here this week.. I'll probably go ahead and get the X-tre I'd read it really helps the older bikes but couldn't find any info on the newer ones.. The idle part had me scared off! Thanks so much for all the help, you guys are awesome..
I cannot imagine the sprocket change won't solve it for you. Granted, my bike was an Original k6 Vee, but the 16t sprocket was night and day difference. And it's purely mechanical. No electronic gadgetry. No wires to cut!
let us know how you do!
 

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RPM edginess and injection programming...sorry but my '18 is smooth as silk especially compared to my last ride a '14 FZ09. For myself I would put $$ elsewhere on the bike.
I hope you're right!
My new 18 XT still sits unridden due to salt covered roads, so I just don't know.
But the change from 16t and PCV on my old k6, to stock teeth and fueling has been a concern.
 

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At least on the older Stroms, the TREs don't affect the lower gears at all. They just change the mixture and secondary throttle bodies in 5th and 6th so that it thinks it's in 4th, which is unaffected by the bike's "safe operating speed" program. You have to dig deeply into the information on the TREs to find this out because often, the TREs are used to uncork the lower gears of sport bikes which are restricted to keep them from being wheelie prone. Our 650s are not restricted at all, so they don't need one at all. This info is on 2012 and older Vees. The new ones likely have the same function in their ECUs.
 

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Alot of this stuff seems to be speculation. I went through all of this on my SV and ended up just leaving it out.

I would think you would need to see if for yourself or on the Utoob to prove it actually works.
 

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My '06 1000 gained 8 mph on the straight stretch at a local road course after installing the TRE. 138 corrected mph. Mine is not stock. Your results may vary. Don't go that fast on a stock Vee. They are prone to tank slappers.
 
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