[greywolf]

It sounds like you need a new chain and sprockets. Being able to pull the chain off the sprocket at 3 o'clock and having tight and loose spots are bad signs. The chain slack up to down should be 0.8-1.2 inches at the tightest spot on the run with the bike on the side stand and no extra weight, person or luggage, on it. Measure the chain stretched out at the loosest part of the run. The distance between 20 links (21 pins with start and stop pin included) should be no more than 12.57 inches. If there are any visible kinks between links are noticed or there is red dust present not from red earth in the area, the chain also needs to be replaced.

 

[barryg]

It sounds like you need a new chain and sprockets. Being able to pull the chain off the sprocket at 3 o'clock and having tight and loose spots are bad signs. The chain slack up to down should be 0.8-1.2 inches at the tightest spot on the run with the bike on the side stand and no extra weight, person or luggage, on it. Measure the chain stretched out at the loosest part of the run. The distance between 20 links (21 pins with start and stop pin included) should be no more than 12.57 inches. If there are any visible kinks between links are noticed or there is red dust present not from red earth in the area, the chain also needs to be replaced.

I just can't imagine how a chain/sprockets would need to replaced with 8500 orig miles on the bike...?
No red dust or anything. I don't see any visible kinks...just assumed there were since some parts of chain tighter than others.

 

[greywolf]

That's uneven wear. Do the measurement. An uncared for chain can be a problem with very little mileage. The bike is five years old. Weather can do more damage than miles. I had a chain that was in fine shape in the Fall that died in less than 1000 miles in the winter because it got salt on it I didn't notice.

 

[tucsonstrom]

Kinks you describe indicate the need for chain replacment. :thumbup:

....

 

[barryg]

Maybe neglect but weather is doubtful. Previous owner had multiple bikes, all in his garage. Said he never rides in the rain....I believe him since there's not much of a reason to here in San Diego. And "winter" doesn't really exist here.

I'll do the measurement this weekend. I'll probably take it to my local mechanic and have him take a quick look as he's arguably the best bike mechanic in my city.

 

[rconti]

I was surprised at the somewhat rusty chain on my Wee when I bought it from Chula Vista. Coastal air, I guess.

If the chain is tighter in some points and looser than others, that's definitely bad.

 

[Improperly Torqued]

When I buy a used vehicle, I generally replace all consumables wherever there's any doubt, and take the P.O.'s word for nothing. There's no point in second-guessing and speculating, in my opinion. I'd just replace it to get to a known state.

 

[PTRider]

I've seen original chains with fewer miles than yours in very poor condition. Yes, they "should" last more than 8500 miles. Yours is dead. Did the original owner lube it?

Conventional wisdom is to renew the sprockets when the chain is renewed, but if a close inspection of yours shows no wear, you might keep them on with the understanding that they might cause your new chain to wear out sooner than it otherwise would. The front sprocket can be flipped over so the other side of the teeth wear.

 

[DrDale]

Even if the chain is "loose" it should still be snug to the rear sprocket. That's been my rule of thumb for a quick check of the status of the chain and sprockets. I replaced mine last summer for the first time with about 27,000 miles on the originals. Even then the old chain and sprockets were more snug than what you describe. No way of knowing why they're shot, just that they are. Be sure you get a good quality (I use the DID X-Ring) chain. You also always want to replace the sprockets, since bad sprockets will quickly wear out a new chain and a worn chain will wear out new sprockets. BTW, I don't over worry about my chains, just clean somewhat regularly (grunge brush and diluted dawn dish soap) and lube somewhat periodically with Dupont Teflon Multi-Lube.

 

[barryg]

Even if the chain is "loose" it should still be snug to the rear sprocket.

I agree. But for whatever reason, after riding the Strom to work twice, I check the chain today, pushing the bike 6 inches and checking slack and it all seems fine. No tight spots, slack seems about the same throughout.
Sprockets don't look great but not that bad either.

I'm still going to take it by my shop Tues and have them take a look at it.
But the bike seems to ride great....so I dunno what's up or why it was initially real tight in spots....