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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am an old person running around on a dl650 and in town I do an awful lot of clutching and shifting. nothing on this old person works as good as it used to, including hands. I have had bikes with a hydraulic clutch before and they are much easier to operate than the old cable operated clutch.
on ebay I ran across a complete dl1000 clutch operating set up, master cylinder, hyd line, and slave cylinder. It looks like it would work, might have to slot the holes. Has anyone done this transplant? If it will work it would be great for me.
I think I should make it clear that what I am after is not the dl1000 clutch pack itself , but the hydraulic actuation mechanism. Magura makes a hydraulic conversion for dirt bikes for $300 but it uses a hydraulic cylinder to operate the conventional mechanical clutch release mechanism and that has a lot more inefficiency than a straight hydraulic mechanism
 

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I do not think a DL1000 clutch is going to do you any good. I would be looking into either a dirt bike type conversion for changing cable clutches to hydraulic or possibly using softer clutch springs (if you are not a heavy throttle user).
 

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I have seen a hydraulic clutch conversion kit for the Wee but it costs about $300. I can't remember the brand off the top of my head. I'll see if I can find it a little later if you're interested at that price.
 

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If you plan on keeping the bike a Rekluse auto clutch could be worth the investment.
 

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I would think that mounting the slave cylinder would be a very challenging engineering achievement.
Ensure that the clutch cable adjustment, the clutch adjustment, and the clutch cable and lever action are as good as they can be.

Then consider this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moose-ATV-Dirt-Bike-Motorcycle-Racing-Easy-Pull-Clutch-Lever-System-M555-00-/163334093720
Or this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1200mm-Hydraulic-Clutch-Lever-Master-Cylinder-Knitting-oil-hose-125-250cc-Dirt-Pit-Bike-Motorcycle/32808616920.html
 

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It is not the "hydraulic vs cable" that makes a DL 1000 different in pull. If a DL 1000 had a cable clutch, it would probably be even harder to pull and go through cables fairly often. DL 1000's have extremely strong pressure plate springs.

DL 650's have a nice clutch lever pull when everything is right.

I have tried some off the wall stuff, but the work to try to mount a DL 1000 slave cylinder to the 650 is something I would never try.

Get an EFM auto clutch, or a Rekluse auto clutch if lever pull is a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Some real good thoughts here. thanks much guys. The reason that it occurred to me to put a dl1000 slave cylinder on my 650 is that I ran across one on ebay a couple days after moving the 650 clutch actuator out of the way to put a 16 t front sprocket on. ( love the 16 ) the image of the 650 actuator is fresh in my mind and it sure looks like the dl1000 would bolt right in and do the job. an advantage to using the 1000 master cylinder/lever assy is that a mirror mounts on it which the magura doesn't have.
I occasionally run across a kawi zrx1200 that I used to own. the hyd clutch lever on that 1200 is easier for me to pull in than the clutch lever on my dl650. hydraulic is a good thing. Auto clutches are the wave of the future I'm sure.
 

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"Bolt right in" is the key. There are no bosses cast into the 650 engine cases to mount the DL 1000 slave cylinder to! That would be a major project involving aluminum welding to make happen. Welding that would probably include engine disassembly to do it right.

IF you could get the DL 1000 slave cylinder mounted, then a bit of fabrication would allow the pushrod to work without much effort.
 

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How much force is required to get the clutch plates to separate, and how much force is wasted on friction in the clutch cable? With these modern teflon coated cables my gut feeling is that maybe only 10% of the force is due to friction. That's what you can potentially eliminate with a hydraulic clutch of a DL1000. Because the DL1000 hydraulic clutch is just that - a hydraulic system instead of a cable operated system. It's not a "power clutch" as in "power steering" or "power brakes". There is no energy of the engine going into the system to make clutch operation easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There are bosses cast into the 650 case that the mechanical actuator bolts to. the slave cylinder would bolt there, to the existing bosses IF it is a perfect fit. In the meantime I think I will lengthen the arm that the cable pulls on by about 1/4". it is a short arm compared to the longer clutch actuating arms that we used to lengthen by 1/2" on some early motorcycles. before I lengthen the arm (retired welder here) I would like to get a fish weighing scale to see what kind of pull is required before and after the modification. so I will be held up until I get a fish weighing scale.
 

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I am an old person running around on a dl650 and in town I do an awful lot of clutching and shifting. nothing on this old person works as good as it used to, including hands.
Me too, R.L.
Arthritis is starting to set in, and, although the clutch on my bike is tolerable for now, I do miss the hydraulic clutch of my previous bike. I shift up clutchless from 3rd thru 6th and down 6th to 5th. Also, I find I don't need to pull the clutch lever all the way back except for initial launch,

I'm not as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I ever was>:)
 

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I've always been impressed with the clutch function on the DL650 -- easily the nicest cable-operated clutch I've ever used. If there's a problem with your cable or actuating mechanism, those are pretty easy fixes.

If a clutch like the V-Strom's is giving you trouble, you might consider a DCT like the Honda NC700 / 750x. The bike has a strong following, and it's common to find them used with extremely (troubling, maybe) low miles. I've been considering a 2016 NC700X myself.
 

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Have you ever considered adjustable levers? Perhaps moving the engagement point may assist.
BTW some Suzuki hydraulic clutches seem to have an overly large master cylinder internal diameter and a tendency to engage abruptly at almost full release, a tendency that would be a disadvantage to those with hand issues.

There is a discussion thread on the DL1000 hydraulic clutch here: https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-2002-2012/28302-dl-1000-clutch-adjustment.html
 

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Have you looked at the Easy Pull systems....

Moose Easy Pull Clutch System

There are several all working on the same principle. I almost bought one then switched to a Honda with a lighter clutch.

A good solution for a heavy clutch
I bought and installed this system a month ago on my Suzuki dr650 and it's worked well so far. I commute to work in the city and was getting a sore wrist after 20 mins of stop and go so I picked this up as a cheap solution. Haven't had any pain since. Was easy to install but would recommend putting some grease inside as well as sealing with silicone or something as it's not waterproof. Installation took about 20 minutes. I docked 1 star because it came with zero instructions but you should be able to figure it out. It also gives you a longer pull so let's you modulate clutch engagement more precisely which can be good for launching from a stop or slow speed maneuvers. Highly recommended

Enthusiast (daily)
2003 dr650se
They seemed to be marketed to dirt bikes but it's a simple principle and no reason not to work on the Vstrom......easier and way cheaper.
 

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When my young bloke was 6 or 7 he had a KX80 and I fitted a Easy Pull clutch.

While it did ease some of the load it did also reduce some of the movement of the actuating arm meaning I had to have zero slack in the cable to get the clutch to function, having zero slack puts plate slip at risk.

Have you had a look at your clutch basket ?

They wear low points on the outer basket were the plates ride so when you pull on the leaver the plates must ride up onto the high points to separate.

Smoothing out the high points will make the clutch action easier and smoother, it is free to do and I would give it a try if I was in your position.
 

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Following.
After about 5 miles of what I call power walking (continuous pulling and releasing clutch moving bike a few feet at a time) bike in construction traffic in Vegas the other day.
My hands are still killing me, the whole section was on an incline so had to ride brake too.
I would be interested in a improvement in the pull, but was very glad I was on my 650 instead of my 1000 because it is a much easier pull on the 650.
I need to get back in the habit of squeezing a stress ball or similar to build up hands while watching tv.
Used to have one on my desk and would use it when I thought about it, also not so dangerous when coworker stressed me and I threw it at him 😉
Mike
 
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