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Discussion Starter #1
Just ordered the Active-Plus from Topgear.
http://www.topgearaccess.com/autocom/
$305 (including shipping) with passenger head set and lead and a few other doodads. was going to go with Scala Rider but decided I'd go this route for less money. i realize it's "last year's" model but hey, the price was right.

now, how's the best way to power it up. thinking PC8 from the beaver guy. what do you think?
 

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I think you'll be more satisfied in the long run, you don't even know the cord is there

it may seem fussy getting it setup, getting speakers velcroed in you helmet in alignment with your ear, adjusting volumes, going for test ride, readjusting, placing the noise sensor, etc.

once you get it set up, sound quality is better than you can imagine at whatever speed your going , I talk on my cell phone as crystal clear at 100mph as I do @ 30mph (better than not thru the autocom system parked on side of road)

I listen to stereo mp3s on my GPS
V-1 & FRS also connected
I haven't got it to work with my CB yet, need to get a special cable from england



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I've got the VOX, AGC, and noise sensor disabled on mine. Those features are unnecessary and annoying as all get-out if you use in-ear speakers.

I also used to be a soundman so I hate volumes changing unless I intended them to change. :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
...
V-1 & FRS also connected
I haven't got it to work with my CB yet, need to get a special cable from england
V-1???

FRS, that's a hand held comm radio. how do those work because generally you have to push a button on the radio to to talk?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think you'll be more satisfied in the long run, you don't even know the cord is there

it may seem fussy getting it setup, getting speakers velcroed in you helmet in alignment with your ear, adjusting volumes, going for test ride, readjusting, placing the noise sensor, etc.

once you get it set up, sound quality is better than you can imagine at whatever speed your going , I talk on my cell phone as crystal clear at 100mph as I do @ 30mph (better than not thru the autocom system parked on side of road)

I listen to stereo mp3s on my GPS
V-1 & FRS also connected
I haven't got it to work with my CB yet, need to get a special cable from england
I've got the VOX, AGC, and noise sensor disabled on mine. Those features are unnecessary and annoying as all get-out if you use in-ear speakers.

I also used to be a soundman so I hate volumes changing unless I intended them to change. :mrgreen:
how are you guys powering the unit?
 

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how are you guys powering the unit?
I've got a fuse box, but you don't need anything special. The only possible concern is that you can get a lot of noise in the system depending on where you mount it. I had this problem when I tried it in the under-seat tray. Randy lined his tray with lead to fix the problem. I moved mine to the tank bag.
 

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V-1???

FRS, that's a hand held comm radio. how do those work because generally you have to push a button on the radio to to talk?
They work with the Autocom FRS cable and are voice activated, so if you ride with a group and cough a lot, they're gonna be ticked off at you. :mrgreen:

I'm not sure that all models support the FRS radios. I have a Super AVI.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've got a fuse box, but you don't need anything special. The only possible concern is that you can get a lot of noise in the system depending on where you mount it. I had this problem when I tried it in the under-seat tray. Randy lined his tray with lead to fix the problem. I moved mine to the tank bag.
for reals, lead? i do want a more permanent install so under the seat is where mine'll be.

so, a fuse box wire's into the bike harness and any accessory would run to the fuse box?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
rather than get a packaged auxillary power supply like a Blue Seas or Eastern Beaver, I built my own with components I purchased at Sesquhana Motorsports www.rallylights.com
it takes up less space and gives more room for other stuff in the trunk like the Autocom unit & coiled up unused autocom leads

not adept in 'lectrics to attempt my own fuse block. i'm planning on one powerlet for phone and MP3 power (but with the powerlet kit i won't need a fuse box) and the autocom. i like the idea of eastern beavers box even though it accommodates more than i'm planning. i don't know, maybe i'm already getting in over my head.
 

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for reals, lead? i do want a more permanent install so under the seat is where mine'll be.
Try tinfoil. It might work. If it's close to the battery, it's going to be noisy. The back part of the tray might be okay. The autocom box itself is not shielded. Dumb dumb dumb.
 

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for reals, lead? i do want a more permanent install so under the seat is where mine'll be.

so, a fuse box wire's into the bike harness and any accessory would run to the fuse box?
I had some lead flashing kicking around the house, leftover from some chimney work so I fabricated a tray for the Autocom unit to rest in

it worked great for about 30,000 miles but just recently the vibration got to it, the lead tray broke into pieces, and I hear engine noise now in my speakers, I haven't fabed a 2nd one yet, thinking about how to do an antivibe shield



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The best shielding material to use is thin steel. If you've got any old consumer electronics around that you'll never use again (VCR?), the cover might be a good choice, but give any metal a try.
 

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Just ordered the Active-Plus from Topgear.
http://www.topgearaccess.com/autocom/
$305 (including shipping) with passenger head set and lead and a few other doodads. was going to go with Scala Rider but decided I'd go this route for less money. i realize it's "last year's" model but hey, the price was right.

now, how's the best way to power it up. thinking PC8 from the beaver guy. what do you think?
Autocom makes good stuff, no doubt, but their cables, headsets, and leads are quite pricey. I had an Autocom system on my BMW LT and it worked as advertised. My only complaints were the CRAP speakers and the coiled extention leads would go bad in a short period of time. Autocom would be glad to sell me more of they but wouldn't replace them for free.

I decided to try an alternative to Autocom, a digital Starcom1 system. The install and set up is, IMO, a pain in the ass. The instructions are just barely better than none at all. There are no dealers or installers anywhere close to me for assistance. Having to call California and try to trobleshoot it over the phone is also a pain in the ass, (almost as bad as the stock Vstrom seat).:headbang:

The next money I spend on comm systems will be for the yet to be released Scala Rider G4. It's supposed to be an improved version of the already capable Q2. I just hope they've improved the sound quality and volume of their speakers.

Wireless technology gets better all the time and that's the way to go for me.

PS- you can improve the sound quality of your system a great deal by wearing earplugs. I tried it and it works.
 

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not adept in 'lectrics to attempt my own fuse block. i'm planning on one powerlet for phone and MP3 power (but with the powerlet kit i won't need a fuse box) and the autocom. i like the idea of eastern beavers box even though it accommodates more than i'm planning. i don't know, maybe i'm already getting in over my head.
Go with EB. I'm not electronics guy either, but this is a dead easy install with the online directions. The kit comes with everything that you need. It is specific for the V-Strom.

http://www.stromtrooper.com/showthread.php?p=482010#post482010

I like the EB products. They are very well made. Put the fuse box in you might end up adding more stuff later.
 
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