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Have the Pro-Taper hi atv's. Tried the mid atv's 1st and were too staright and too low. Get the S/E's (7/8") and they bolt right up to the stock mounts.
 

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Have the Pro-Taper hi atv's. Tried the mid atv's 1st and were too staright and too low. Get the S/E's (7/8") and they bolt right up to the stock mounts.
Pro Taper Seven Eights (SE) ATV High bend here too, but I am on a Wee.

I like them. Much less sweep than stock.

There are a couple of other manufacturers with a similar spec'd bar; Tusk and MSR, I think. No experience, so someone else will need to chime in.
 

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ProTaper SE ATV High here also. :thumbup: Since I have had PT SE bars on my KLR for over eight years I would be surprised if you didn't like them. They are super tough and the sweep is just right for me. I just put the same bars on my Wee. Here's a little bonus: I get less vibration through the PTs than I did with the stock bars. On both bikes. Win/win.
 

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I also have the Pro Taper ATV hi bars but they are the fat bars with Pro Taper adapters. They are tough as nails. I had Pro Taper CR Hi bars when I flipped the bike and they didn't budge.
 

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I'm using the crossbar and would recommend it for strength. I'm using the OEM guards and bar ends. I had to get some 1/4" ID fuel hose and some 6mm nuts to make the bar ends work with the ProTaper bars which have a smaller ID than the stock steel bars. There are several threads here on how to do it.
 

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I'm using the crossbar and would recommend it for strength. I'm using the OEM guards and bar ends. I had to get some 1/4" ID fuel hose and some 6mm nuts to make the bar ends work with the ProTaper bars which have a smaller ID than the stock steel bars. There are several threads here on how to do it.
+1.

I am running the cross bar, saw no reason to remove. I have had the oem bar ends, with the mentioned fuel line mod, on both sides. I now right the left oem bar end and a Kaoko cruise control on the right. No hand guards. All the other controls mounted and work fine. The controls do have a nub that needs to be filed or ground down, it is plastic and files down easily. Some drill their bars for the nub but to me that limits your ability to adjust them forward or backward as needed.
 

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I have the ProTaper SE ATV Mid bars, which are pretty close to the same height as the stock steel bars. The High bars must be higher than stock, if that is what you want. I left the cross bar on, and the bar ends have several markings so that you can easily trim the overall width if you want. Untrimmed they are wider than OEM and do not bend back as much, resulting in a longer, wider reach to the bars.
Unlike the stock bars, I can feel them flexing while riding over the stutter bumps that you find on hard dirt roads.
 

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I had a set of ProTaper Contour (1-1/8") Pastarna FMX on my DL1K. The rise is not equivalent to stock, so I used a set of 2" ROX risers. The sweep is smaller than stock, putting your wrists at a much more comfortable position.

My Glee has a set of ProTaper SE ATV mid. Good sweep angle, but the rise is still too short for my liking (and installing an ATV high doesn't really solve the problem, they are only 10mm taller), so I added 2" risers (this time from PowerMadd).

Keep in mind that both of those bars are wider than stock. Many (most?) people cut off about an inch of each end to make them narrower.

Gustavo
 

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It appears I have tweaked my handlebars...

Has anyone here installed protaper bars on there vee? If so what size/style and how do you like them compared to stock?
Umm yeah, only everyone. :mrgreen:

ATV Hi and ATV mid seem to be the most popular. I have the mids, which cause a little bit of forward lean to reach them that the slightly taller Hi does not. Both have less sweep than OEM.

I run the crossbar, I would suspect that most do, as there is no good reason not to: more strength, looks better, more places to mount stuff.

The stock handguards and pretty much every aftermarket brand mount up easily with maybe only a little tweaking. I fact, I think all handguards look "correct" on the ATV-series bars because they ends of the bars are straight / parallel to the ground, so the handguards look properly oriented. On the stock bars handguards always look "droopy" when viewed from the front.



 
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