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What are your thoughts on the different approaches to break in. I’ve always followed the traditional route and broke the bike in gently. I’m hearing more and more that you should ride it like you stole it right out of the box. The other day I ran across an opinion that 80% of break in takes place in the first 20 miles and that you have to load the engine during that time frame or the rings will never seal properly. This guy had stats and pictures and years of working on race bikes and tons of convincing arguments to bolster his point. Not being much of a wrench myself, he had me convinced. He argues that it was necessary to break in gently back in the old days but new modern engines require a hard fast break in, but the dealers are still telling us to do it the old way mainly because that’s how its always been done and they don't know any better.
 

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I'm in the "don't baby the bike" camp. Back when I wrenched BMW boxer twins, the lastest (20 years ago) advice on a rebuild was to install the rings dry with non detergent oil in the sump. Upon starting, the engine was to be run at half redline for a specified number of seconds then at or near redline for another specified number of seconds. The idea was to seat the rings ASAP.
 

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Stromette, I think I love you. I am too old to think though.
 
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break in

my salesperson said to run it normally around town and stop and go... he said avoid a current highway speed during the break in process..he said go as fast as i want but continue up and down back and forth, just avoid one speed on the highway...
 

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Big B said:
What is a break in period???? :roll:
LOL.

I've also always believed you need to load the engine and get it used to revs. After reading a lot of posts here's how I am breaking in my bike:

Below 500 miles I will not exceed 4500 rpm. However I WILL take the bike up to 4500 under hard exceleration periodically and more towards 4500 rpm the closer I am to 500 miles on the bike. I will stop every 1/2 hour or hour to let the bike cool off.

Below 1000 miles I will not exceed 7500 rpm, and wind the engine up in the same way and more towards the full 7500 rpm the more I get towards 1000 miles on the bike, and in all gears (except 5th and 6th).

Basically you need to "load" the engine especially during break-in if you want a bike that is going to be happy in the future under load and high rpms. The biggest thing to AVOID is running the engine at the same rpm for too long. The reason is, doing this will continue to heat up just a specific area in your engine when what you want is to heat the engine in all the various "areas", not one specific area. If you are on a street/highway where it's hard to vary your speed, just shift to vary the rpm and thus the egnine load.

You also want to down shift a lot to load the engine when slowing down. This puts load on the opposite side of the engine parts. And don't "lug" the engine, meaning using a gear that is too high for the speed your going.

Change your oil after 100 miles then again after 500 or 600 miles. Then I'm going to change my oil again at 1500 miles, and then at 2500 or 3000 miles. Some time after this I'll switch to synthetic.
 

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greywolf said:
Stromette, I think I love you. I am too old to think though.
ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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Chris,

Mate, mate, mate.....you're thinkin' waaaaaay too hard about this!!!

Just ride the thing, and enjoy it. Running it in the way you described will be of no benefit, and you'll end up with an ulcer from all the stress of worrying about it! Take a deep breath and just cane that puppy from day one, it'll love you for it. Run 'em in hard, and they'll ALWAYS go hard!
 

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STROMETTE said:
greywolf said:
Stromette, I think I love you. I am too old to think though.
ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I'm glad you got a laugh out of it. Women who are genuinely knowledgable bikers or who are comfortable using a table saw just turn me on. My wife doesn't mind because she knows I'm too slow to catch one and even if I did, I wouldn't remember what to do with her.
 

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Barney said:
Chris,

Mate, mate, mate.....you're thinkin' waaaaaay too hard about this!!!

Just ride the thing, and enjoy it. Running it in the way you described will be of no benefit, and you'll end up with an ulcer from all the stress of worrying about it! Take a deep breath and just cane that puppy from day one, it'll love you for it. Run 'em in hard, and they'll ALWAYS go hard!
LOL, you are probably right about the ulcer. It's no fun thinking about all that during break-in and can't wait until it's over. It's kind of a bitter-sweet thing for me, where I enjoy breaking it in but also hate having to do it at the same time. I'll be happy when it's over and I don't have to think about the RPMs anymore!
 

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No, really Chris, what Barney is saying is... Don't bore yourself with the notion that you are doing your engine any good. In fact your way of breaking in may cause eventual damage. Of course there are several schools of thought on this topic. Search on this forum and general google searches on this topic. Seems to me the general thought is RUN THE ENGINE HARD, not to be confused with beating the hell out of it.

Just in case, seriously do not put yourself though that procedure you outlined, or you engine for that matter.

I only have about 900 miles on my engine and I have not babied it in the least, haven't beat it either. The motor seems to be waking up. Every time I ride it the bike seems to be more powerful, and smoother.

I don't care what you do really but check into some other ways.
 

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I bought mine with <400 miles and now at a touch under 600, it's starting to smooth some.. If my schedule and the weather could ever come to an agreement, I'd be riding..

I've been riding it, not afraid to accelerate to 6-7000 for breif periods (seconds) and then chopping the throttle and letting the engine slow me back down..

I'm going to change the oil this weekend at 600 miles and while I'm at it, drill and epoxy a rare earth magnet in my drain plug.. I'll slap in a few quarts of dino 10w-40 and do it again at 1500 miles..
 

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Paper said:
I'm going to change the oil this weekend at 600 miles and while I'm at it, drill and epoxy a rare earth magnet in my drain plug.. I'll slap in a few quarts of dino 10w-40 and do it again at 1500 miles..
What will this do? What is a rare earth magnet?
 

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ononewheel said:
In fact your way of breaking in may cause eventual damage.
What damage would my method of break-in cause? My method DOES run the engine hard, just not over a certain RPM given the number of miles on the engine. I've read a LOT of posts on break-in and basically summarized the most popular points in those, but added in the recommended RPM ranges recommended in the factory manual.
 

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The eventual damage may be the rings not seating properly. As I also said, there are several schools of thought on break-in. While I do not think holding the rpm's at redline or near are very healthy at first, 4,500 is a "drop in the bucket " of the Strom's capabilities. I have a hard time thinking about riding it for 500 miles and not going over 4500 RPM.

It's your engine and you are free to break it in as you wish. I might suggest this link http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

My intent isn't to laugh at you, only to say that I think while you have good intentions, there is a much more reasonable process of break-in, but most of all a more fun way. If I seriously had to ride the bike for 500 miles and not exceed 4500 RPM, and had to becareful to not go over 7500 miles I might have considered paying someone to break my Strom in.... Any takers?[/url]
 

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Paper, the drain plug already has a magnet in it. It will have a steel dust ball on the end when you take it out.
 

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ChrisW123 said:
Big B said:
What is a break in period???? :roll:
LOL.

I've also always believed you need to load the engine and get it used to revs. After reading a lot of posts here's how I am breaking in my bike:

Below 500 miles I will not exceed 4500 rpm. However I WILL take the bike up to 4500 under hard exceleration periodically and more towards 4500 rpm the closer I am to 500 miles on the bike. I will stop every 1/2 hour or hour to let the bike cool off.

Below 1000 miles I will not exceed 7500 rpm, and wind the engine up in the same way and more towards the full 7500 rpm the more I get towards 1000 miles on the bike, and in all gears (except 5th and 6th).

Basically you need to "load" the engine especially during break-in if you want a bike that is going to be happy in the future under load and high rpms. The biggest thing to AVOID is running the engine at the same rpm for too long. The reason is, doing this will continue to heat up just a specific area in your engine when what you want is to heat the engine in all the various "areas", not one specific area. If you are on a street/highway where it's hard to vary your speed, just shift to vary the rpm and thus the egnine load.

You also want to down shift a lot to load the engine when slowing down. This puts load on the opposite side of the engine parts. And don't "lug" the engine, meaning using a gear that is too high for the speed your going.

Change your oil after 100 miles then again after 500 or 600 miles. Then I'm going to change my oil again at 1500 miles, and then at 2500 or 3000 miles. Some time after this I'll switch to synthetic.
Chris......you must have taken me seriously!!!! :lol: I was trying to be a smart ass! I DO NOT BELIEVE in a break in period. Just ride the bike like you normally would. This "legend" is getting about as redundant, as the oil threads! :wink: But...it is still entertaining! :p
 

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ononewheel said:
It's your engine and you are free to break it in as you wish. I might suggest this link http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Great article on break-in, thanks. Well if this guy's right, then my post is out the window. :eek: You get soooo many different opinions on this subject it's hard to know which method is really best. From the article it sounds like he knows.
 
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