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Discussion Starter #1
I just replaced the OEM shock with a Progressive Suspension 465 series shock with RAP. Once on the bike I tried to set the SAG. My measurement were 3 cm standard load (me and the stuff I usually carry) and 4.5 cm fully loaded. This with the RAP set on minimum (screwed all the way counterclockwise. I've tried getting help for Progressive but have got zero help. Is it usual to have that little SAG when setting the shock up and am I harming the shock by riding it at those settings.

Thanks,

Chuckersconnie
 

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I don't think you will harm the shock. You need an assist to get the sag. The more knowledgeable will pipe in here.
I left my shock the way Sasquatch suggested and only turned the hand knob a bit.
 

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How much you weigh?
 

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RAP = remote adjustable preload

Ride the bike a bit to let the new parts break in and free up. The preload moves the spring mount up or down, and you should be able to see that move as you turn it. With the sag setting you have (30 mm) the shock might top out when you hit a big bump hard--but probably not. 40 mm is our usual sag setting.
 

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Super important to be measuring correctly. I just put one of these on my Vee and I ended up needing to have a custom spring made for it because it was not stiff enough. For the Vee, the spring rate that comes with the shock is a 9.2kg spring. I weigh about 230lb and ended up with a 13.5kg spring and ended up right at 50mm of sag with no preload from the adjuster.
How much do you weigh and how are you measuring the sag?
With your bike on the center stand (rear suspension fully extended) pick a spot on the bike above the rear axle to measure from and measure down to a point on the axle. Now you need to sit on the bike upright in your gear and make the same EXACT measurement. You have to use a wheel chock or a couple helpers to hold the bike upright and someone to measure.
The sag range I was told was between 40mm and 56mm of sag. I ended up right at 50mm with no preload.
 

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FYI, the instructions for the 465 RAP list a minimum spring length which was exactly the length mine was with full pre load. The adjustment nut next to the RAP housing should still have some room to be adjusted. The adjustment nut sets the primary sag and the RAP unit is considered the fine tuning. If you have room to raise the nut 5mm up on the threaded housing, it should net you approximately the 10mm of sag you are not getting now. Basically, you follow the instructions for the non RAP model to get it close. The RAP housing is not threaded onto the shock body but just slips over it. The spring tension may make the RAP housing turn when you try to adjust the nut higher up on the housing and if this happens, it is recommended to remove the shock to make the coarse adjustment.

With this said, I had the opposite problem and am not a suspension expert. I had a lot of learning to do getting mine set up. Just remember that in no way should the spring sit loose on the shock. If you adjust the adjustment nut to have less preload on the spring, make sure that at full extension, the spring is still securely held in place. I seriously doubt that a 5mm adjustment at the shock body would loosen it that much but just be aware.

Once you get your sag set, don't forget that you have 5 rebound dampening adjustments that can be made. #1 allows the shock to rebound the fastest and #5 makes it rebound the slowest. If the bike feels like it wallows in corners or springs you up (pogo like) after a bump, it is set on too low a number. If you were to ride over stutter bumps and the ride gets harsh, it is set on too high a number. You can find a happy medium but learning what number setting works better on the different types of roads you ride will make your ride nicer! Also remember not to adjust the rebound from 1 backwards to 5 or from 5 straight to 1. Always go up from #1 and down from #5.
 

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2wheel, What is the case in which the nut becomes stripped and turning makes no adjustment. Is there a fix, can it be done personally or sent off to comp? Thanks
 
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