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Discussion Starter #1
the manual says that it comes set a 3 bars in the front and 2 lines on the rear shock. Does anyone know what weight rider that is set up for? I don't have any help at my house to do the zip-tie trick. i have a wife and 3 daughters who are not interested. LOL. I just want to be in the center of the travel for the springs and shock and i figured they had to have a number in mind (average size/weight rider) when they came up with the standard settings. I weigh 173 btw which i think is average so i left it at the standard settings. Anyone know?
 

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Personally, I feel like the stock springs are for 98 lb Japanese guys. I would pre-load them a lot and raise the forks in the clamps about 10mm.
The rear doesn't have a pre-load adjustment (quoting GW) However it has a ride height adjustment.
I would be looking at Sonic Springs for a new set of fork springs.
 

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?? Very early Vees don't have a front preload adjustment. A red one will be a 2006 model which should have 5 lines on the front and five lines on the rear to indicate preload level. All years have rear preload adjustment. The preload adjustment is the ride height adjustment.

You don't need help to do a decent job with the zip tie trick in front. Tie the zip tie on the fork tube at the dust seal. Then get get on and and change from one leg supporting the bike to the other leg as you kick the bike from one side to the other making sure to have both feet off the ground in the transition. Then pull the bike up on the side stand to get the weight off the front and measure the distance between the zip tie and the dust seal. You want about 40 mm. The range is 25-33 percent of the full travel, not half. You need more compression room than rebound room.

You can try three lines on the rear and see if you get any bottoming. If you do, you add more preload.
 

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2006 was maroon. I think 2012 was the only year for red on the DL1000.
 

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?? Very early Vees don't have a front preload adjustment. A red one will be a 2006 model which should have 5 lines on the front and five lines on the rear to indicate preload level. All years have rear preload adjustment. The preload adjustment is the ride height adjustment.

You don't need help to do a decent job with the zip tie trick in front. Tie the zip tie on the fork tube at the dust seal. Then get get on and and change from one leg supporting the bike to the other leg as you kick the bike from one side to the other making sure to have both feet off the ground in the transition. Then pull the bike up on the side stand to get the weight off the front and measure the distance between the zip tie and the dust seal. You want about 40 mm. The range is 25-33 percent of the full travel, not half. You need more compression room than rebound room.

You can try three lines on the rear and see if you get any bottoming. If you do, you add more preload.
"Changing the preload does not stiffen the spring. The spring stiffness is inherent. Cranking the preload clockwise raises the rear and counterclockwise lowers it. It's called setting the sag for the load. See The Science and Black Magic of Suspension Setup"

I mis-understood
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Right. Changing the preload changes the sag, or ride height. If maximizing the preload doesn't get the ~40mm you need, a stronger spring will be needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
super helpful fellas. I have looked at the Science and Black Magic of Suspension Setup before. But this just makes more sense to me. I appreciate it.
 

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As a 320 pound rider, my pre-loads are maxed out. I am looking into new shock for rear and new spring for front, or maybe new spring for rear too, but from what I have read, the rear shock is so/so performer, if even that. But on a 2011, I don't want to dump lots of money into it, so time will tell how the max settings work for me.

Rmpl
 

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As a 320 pound rider, my pre-loads are maxed out. I am looking into new shock for rear and new spring for front, or maybe new spring for rear too, but from what I have read, the rear shock is so/so performer, if even that. But on a 2011, I don't want to dump lots of money into it, so time will tell how the max settings work for me.

Rmpl
At that weight, proper springs rates would give you a new bike.
 
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