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I recently purchased a 2007 DL1000. All I can say is, why did I wait so long??
Thinking ahead, any thoughts on pre-emptive maintainence, such as replace the water pump, fuel pump, anything else?
 

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Several of the most knowledgeable members have all changed to Mosfet type of Regulator/Rectifier from the stock "shunt" type.

It apparently really smooths out the electrical power delivery and helps saves the Stator from prematurely burning out.

I am, however, electrically impaired and I really don't understand the technical differences between the 2 different types. All I care about is results and the knowledgeable types really sing the praises of a mosfet type R/R. Thus I will probably replace mine soon.

Having said the above, my current 2006 DL650 (at around 60,000 miles) still has the stock stator and R/R. So I really don't know what failure rates are. Nor do I know if failure rates are higher or lower on Vee or a Wee.
 

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Irish john

Just throw your leg over it and ride it like a new girlfriend. :hurray: Put some miles on it before you mess with it. :fineprint:

Welcome and good luck!
 

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A headlight kit(From Eastern Beaver) uses relays and helps stop switch failures. Also brightens up your lights some.
 

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Be sure all the fluids have been renewed. In addition to engine oil, be sure the coolant, and front & rear & clutch brake fluid are new.

--Valve clearance check is important.
--When you change the tires, renew the valve stems.
--Check that the radiator and oil cooler are clean on the exteriors.
--Examine the chain and sprockets for wear & clean under the front sprocket cover.
--Examine the thickness of the brake pads.
--Check that the rear sprocket is aligned straight with the front sprocket. --When you have the rear wheel off, check that the rubber dampers are tight enough to hold the sprocket carrier in the wheel hub when you turn the wheel over.
--When either wheel is off, check that the wheel bearings and sprocket carrier bearing turn by hand absolutely smoothly and silently. (Any sign of dry red rust from a bearing or chain link means that its dead.)
 

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Replacing the rubber dampers in the rear hub will help smooth out the drivetrain. I change mine along with the chain and sprockets. There are 5 @ $7 ea.
 

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add later

everyone has an idea of what to do first. i say ride first and then add later thanks take care wayne
 

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Lube the throttle cable.
Check the fork bolts and rear hub nut.
Check the headset by rocking the bike while the front brake is held.
Check the air box for a filter gasket (in addition to a filter)
Lube the side stand.

Ride Ride Ride:thumbup:
 

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Be sure all the fluids have been renewed. In addition to engine oil, be sure the coolant, and front & rear & clutch brake fluid are new.

--Valve clearance check is important.
I'd second checking the valve clearance if it hasn't been done recently. When I checked the valves on my '06 just after I purchased it used with 11,000 miles on it they were all either tight or at the bottom limit.

I'd also suggest syncing the secondaries and throttle bodies as it makes a difference. Mine were out about 1.5" on the Motion Pro stix.

When I got in there I also found one of the rubber plug caps on the vacuum ports completely missing and the other severely cracked and ready to fall off. Can you say vacuum leaks? And with all of the above it ran pretty decent so don't go by that alone.

Everything else mentioned makes sense also but I consider these pretty important for both good smooth running and longevity.
 

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Not much needed.

Valve check.

The relay kit for the lights is probably needed when the age gets up - my lights were quite yellow by the time I installed the relays and turned white again after.

Check the chain for side play, take off the front sprocket cover, clean the grunge out and check the front sprocket for wear. (In theory it wears a lot faster than the rear).

The cush hub rubbers probably do need replacing around 60,000k's, mine still had no slack but they were like little rubber bricks when I changed them, no give at all left.

Pete
 

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Lube the throttle cable.
Not our bikes with their teflon lined cable housings. Do put a drop of oil on the lever pivots.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Suzuki says to grease the cable barrel ends. That's all the cable maintenance they recommended. A big reason to add headlight relays early is to prevent failure of the switch contacts and wire connectors which are a pain to get working properly again after being heat stressed.
 

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A big reason to add headlight relays early is to prevent failure of the switch contacts and wire connectors which are a pain to get working properly again after being heat stressed.
I'm starting to think this might be moved way up on the list of things to do to mine. But I think the front suspension work and some ergo improvements will come first.

What's the recommended relay kit, an Eastern Beaver kit?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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If you know wiring, you just need two relays and connectors. Complete kits are available from Eastern Beaver and Adventure Motostuff.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Thanks but I'll follow my Suzuki Service manual...
That is a known error caused by lifting the information from a previous bike and applying it to a DL1000 outline. Check the details in the manual.

p5-31

HANDLEBAR SWITCH BOX
• Install the throttle cable case.
• Apply grease to the throttle cables and their holes.
99000-25030: SUZUKI SUPER GREASE "A" (USA)
99000-25010: SUZUKI SUPER GREASE "A" (Others)

Grease will stay on the exposed cable ends. Nowhere in the step by step detail in the manual will it say to oil the cables. Oil will attract dust and make the nice, slippery cable coating worse.
 

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Clutch and Brake Fluid

Bleed the clutch and brakes every two years as it says in the OEM maintenance schedule. I erroneously waited until the clutch slave cylinder was leaking (5 years) and had a bigger clean up and had to change the seal. Not a big job but you could see corrosion starting in the cylinder. Also the feel to the clutch and brakes improved enough that you could notice it. I hadn't really notice the decline over time.
 

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That is a known error caused by lifting the information from a previous bike and applying it to a DL1000 outline. Check the details in the manual.

p5-31

HANDLEBAR SWITCH BOX
• Install the throttle cable case.
• Apply grease to the throttle cables and their holes.
99000-25030: SUZUKI SUPER GREASE "A" (USA)
99000-25010: SUZUKI SUPER GREASE "A" (Others)

Grease will stay on the exposed cable ends. Nowhere in the step by step detail in the manual will it say to oil the cables. Oil will attract dust and make the nice, slippery cable coating worse.
BS. Products like Champions Life Cable Lube work for all cables. They displace water, prevent rust and extend the life of cables.

Getting a little sick of the holier than thou tone GW.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Use it if that's your preference. It's not a big deal. Everybody reading this thread for info can decide what to do for themselves. As for my tone, I just post my opinions and references as best I can. I appreciate the feedback and think about how I can do better.
 
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