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Discussion Starter #1
In my second season I have desided not to store my bike for winter and ride any chance I can.
I did get Gerbing's jacketliner and gloves and at 35 degrees I only had it set at about 50%. I did notice with my brake lights on and blinker that the volts would randomly drop below 12.00.

To solve for the extra power I need for heated gear I was going to do some lighting upgrades. Thinking Eatern Beavers Lo beam cut off switch setup. (just 45.00). That would save about 55watts.
What would I need to get if I wanted to switch to HID's? and whats the cost?
Trying to stay within a bundget for now and the rest would be on my X-mas list :yesnod:

Any throughts would be great

Also before the PC-8 I had my stebel air horn connect with Pat walshes setup. Would that be the best setup if I wanted to contant it to the PC-8 instead of the battery? That would be just needing longer wires to reach the PC-8 which I would not have switched so I guess there is not need for the walsh setup I have now. Let me know your thoughts there too.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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With HIDs, you would cut off the power to one of the ballasts to turn one headlight off. HIDs are great for heated gear because a 35W HID lamp puts out more light and less heat than a 55/60W halogen yet only draws 40-44W. Also, the arc is steady when receiving 9-16V so a cycling variable heat controller doesn't modulate the headlight brightness like it does with halogens.

I added this HID kit with digital slim ballasts. 4300K gives the most light per watt and less atmospheric scatter than bluer colors. Digital Slim H4-3(9003) Bi-Xenon HID Conversion Kit Wholesale Digital Slim H4-3(9003) Bi-Xenon HID Kit HID Conversion Kits Car Lights HID Xenon Car Headlights Bulbs Ballasts at competitive prices [VVME-HKB93-DSL] - $52.99 : VVME.COM, Tattoo Kit, Xeno

You can use the PC-8 for the horn and heated gear. It can handle 15A connections and the Stebel draws about 13A. Transients have been known to blow 15A fuses though so use 20A. The PC-8 has six switched and two unswitched connections. You can choose either type for the horn. The relay will not throw without the ignition on in either case.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The tail lights are 21/5. The Wee and Vee only use 10W when not on the brakes.
 

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I have Gerbings liner, gps, xm radio, radar detector, Oxford heated grips. I added Eastern Beaver cut out and keep my v's up. It also helped when I installed the MOSFET RR. In my area riding after dark is taking huge risk due to road rats (deer), therefore with my age I seldom ride after dark. If I need to I just cut back on the power stuff till i am able to keep RPM's up. I always have between 13.2 and 13.8 v's.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Greywolf,

Very nice kit, I will have to get one. One quick question on it, with the 4300K setup do you find riding for a while at night puts alot of eye strain due to the color output to where I should go for more of the 5000k or 6000k etc? Also do you think that would be enough to save power for my heated gear or should I look into my tail lights or still get the Eatern Beaver kitc?

Lastly, being I installed the PC-8 would this conversation kit be easy for me to do?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The HID kit includes a relay so the EB relay kit is not applicable, but a single headlight cutout switch can save 40-44 watts in the daytime. Higher color temperatures are harder on the eyes, hurt night vision, put out less light and scatter more in the water vapor contained in the atmosphere. IMO, it's only out there due to the "hey look at me" attitude. Watt savings on the tail light with LEDs will be in the single digits with the brake lights off. For best results, take the fairing off for access. If you're comfortable doing that and doing wiring, you'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Sounds like the 4300 is the best option. For the single headlight cutout switch what would be the best plug -n-play option? I would like it to attach to my handle bars and the only place I know of is Eastern Beaver for parts this this. But not sure how the install would change by adding this (which is something I would like to do).
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I cut the low beam wire between the relay and the ballast and extended the cut ends to reach the switch on the handlebar. I don't know of a plug and play option.
 

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When you guys are talking about a "low beam cutoff", are you just talking about a way to have it off when starting the bike and then turning it on after it's started?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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We're talking about turning one headlight off to save power for use with a lot of heated gear at high power for riding in cold weather in the daytime.
 

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Which Headlight?

I'll probably do the low beam cutout before I get permission from my wife to get the HID kit I desire so I was wondering if there was a preference as to which headlight to cut out.
When I was adjusting them I would have one off and neither seemed to give full coverage all the way across the road. If I cut out the left one would I still be able to see things on the left side of a back road (animals are my biggest worry)?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I won't ride at night with one headlight on purpose. If I had only one headlight at night, I'd prefer the right on. It will show the side of the road I'd have to stay on, road signs and the closer deer.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'll probably do the low beam cutout before I get permission from my wife to get the HID kit I desire so I was wondering if there was a preference as to which headlight to cut out.
When I was adjusting them I would have one off and neither seemed to give full coverage all the way across the road. If I cut out the left one would I still be able to see things on the left side of a back road (animals are my biggest worry)?
JackinCT,

I was thinking I would do a cut off switch on the right one but not sure I want to go the route. I installed the HID kit at Cambions this past weekend (installing his HIDs this weekend). And if you compare the prices, a nice switch install could run you $20-50 for a quick power savings but when I ride with heated gear its dark in the morning and dark at night so that would help me much when it comes to safety.
If you would like to save 15-25watts and all in I paid 79.00 (do the im conversation or call them and oreder direct you can save 7.00 going stright through them, only pay 69.00 if you don't do the extended warrenty (I did pay the extra) go for the VVME HID lights with 4300K color. When everyone says you get more light you REALLY do, its like riding in the daytime with those things running. Your "See me value" for safety increases alot which my wife likes. Can't complain about 3x more light using less power. Also your lights don't dim as your heat gear pulls power.

In power savings in my situation I am not saving enough to beable to run my gerlings everything on high, sitting at a light with out giving the bike some gas drops my voltmeter below 12v but today it was 28 degrees and my jacket was on (maybe) half way and the gloves on full and I am hitting 12.2ish for the low side.
 
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