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I want to improve my low RPM performance. Do I need one or the other or both? Can anyone give me the advantages of one vs. the other?
 

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The TRE won't do anything for the first 4 gears, it only effects 5th & 6th. IMO better and defintely cheaper to remove the top speed restriction by removing the secondaries. It is a "device" primarily designed to allow the top gears to see the bikes full power.

The PC will allow you to map the FI for a slightly richer low end (or any other place in the map depending on modifications or circumstances in future) which will boost the bottom end. But many dealers or others with Teka's or other devices can easily (less than 10 minutes) and often for free or under $25 add 5% to the bottom of the stock map to improve driviability and performance.
 

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Some after market pipes will also help with the bottom and mid range power. I added some Staintune pipes and free flow air filter and the bike pulls a lot better now. I also had an independent mechanic tune it with a Tekka Box.
I already had tried a TRE on the bike earlier, and I put it back on after the pipes and air filter and I'm not sure it has improved anything.

Dave
 
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Don't waste your $$$ on a TRE. You can get the same results by removing your secondary butterflies, and it won't cost you a penny! Also, this method won't disable your O/D light or mess with any of the computer's settings. Also, a good shop with a Yosh or Tkka bos can remap your fuel injection for much less than the cost of a PowerCommander.

I pulled the secondary butterflies and had my fuel map adjusted with a Yosh Box. WOW!!! My '04 DL1000 is a completely different bike! I can wheelie at will in 1st gear and most of 2nd gear! The dreaded chudder (hiccup, stumble, surging, etc...) is completely gone. I've made a point of trying to get it to surge, but it just won't. I can cruise in O/D at 3000-4000 RPM with no problems at all.
 
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I just got my PCIII earlier this week... Low end performance is improved and there's no more hicup or hesitation at all in the low revs... Satifaction is 100%. Even my wife notice a considerable in smoothness on our ride today...
 
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TRE does affect first four gears as well as 5th and 6th

Actually, the whole point of the TRE is to remove the retarding of ignition timing for gears 1 through 4 (as well as removing the top speed limiter on 6th). You can read about what it does here:

http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/tre.htm

The ECM retards the ignition timing for gears one through four when at half throttle or less. The ECM does not retard ignition timing for gear five. The TRE works by fooling the ECM into thinking that the bike is always in gear 5 (when not in neutral).

BradM said:
The TRE won't do anything for the first 4 gears, it only effects 5th & 6th. IMO better and defintely cheaper to remove the top speed restriction by removing the secondaries. It is a "device" primarily designed to allow the top gears to see the bikes full power.

The PC will allow you to map the FI for a slightly richer low end (or any other place in the map depending on modifications or circumstances in future) which will boost the bottom end. But many dealers or others with Teka's or other devices can easily (less than 10 minutes) and often for free or under $25 add 5% to the bottom of the stock map to improve driviability and performance.
 

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I know exactly what it is, but the timing advance is dependent on the enviornment not the TRE. if you are in area where air temps are regulary over 80 degrees you may find a performance difference, if it isn't hot in your area no improvement.

But okay, you need more advance below half throttle go to Radio Shack and spend .50 cents on a resistor to convince the ecm the intake air temp is lower than what it truly is. Check the Wiki faqs for the value of resistance needed and the install directions.

This isn't rocket science and the value to the price just isn't there IMO, if the air temps are cool you will have no improvement, if they are very hot you may actually "feel" a difference but you may well also need to run premium fuel. This is extremely common low tech mod on various fuel injected engines, the electronic version of packing the airbox and carb in dry ice.
 
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I pulled the secondary butterflies and had my fuel map adjusted with a Yosh Box. WOW!!! My '04 DL1000 is a completely different bike! I can wheelie at will in 1st gear and most of 2nd gear! The dreaded chudder (hiccup, stumble, surging, etc...) is completely gone. I've made a point of trying to get it to surge, but it just won't. I can cruise in O/D at 3000-4000 RPM with no problems at all.
I have been debating pulling the butterflies out.... just trying to decide why Suzuki put them in if they weren't needed. My bike has just been remapped and it runs awesome now. Will it help with throttle response, because it seems to be kinda slow when I compare it with my buddies SV650. Mine seems to have a much slower response when I crack the throttle and it even sometimes slightly backfires through the intake. Although since I remapped, the backfires are now rare. Seems that they are proud of this system and make it a point to bring it up in brochures and the website. :D Are there any downsides to their removal.... I have been reading alot of threads and thus far haven't found any!!
 

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[

I have been debating pulling the butterflies out.... just trying to decide why Suzuki put them in if they weren't needed. My bike has just been remapped and it runs awesome now. [/quote]

If your bike is running so well don't touch it. Although pulling the secondaries is an easy operation. If you feel the need try it and see how the bike reacts. If you don't like what it does to the bike put them back in.
 
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Greetings All

Sorry for my ignorance, but what are the butterflys? I'm planning on purchasing a 05 DL1000 next week. Should I ask the dealership to check out the engine mapping before I take delivery? This 3k hiccup, stumble, surging, etc... seems to be a common issue. I was planning on ordering a Power Commander, but it seems like the dealer can fix the problem for close to free.

Thanks in advance
 

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Skegee

Go ahead and ask them about it before you buy. You might get a good insight into how good a dealer they are by how they anwser you. Tell them that you will buythe bike if they can guarantee that the bike will run prefect when you try it out. Don't fall for the usual anwser that "it is the nature of v-twin engines" My friend's SV1000 runs about as good as a new bike can run and a lot better than my 2002 DL1000. I came from a BMW R11RS so the DL was a vast improvement. Has it been perfect? No but it does run fairly well.
 

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Remapping is the easiest, smartest, and cheapest cure for those problems!! Had mine fixed today- plugged in Yosh box under seat/ turned a couple knobs- FIXED!!!! It took about 15 minutes/ $38 out the door!!! I'm only irritated that I waited 4K miles to go have it done. DL1000's are sent from factory way lean to pass US standards- Richen the baby up and feel the power!!!!! YEAH>>>>>>>>>>>
 
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