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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I have installed my Power Commander III and my K&N air filter. Bike started right up. It runs good and the "hesitation" at low rpms is gone when turning a corner. Fantastic

BUT, I have a flashing FI error. How can I see what that error is, clear the error and find out why I'm getting it?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Codes

Ok I got to work on my bike again yesterday. I did the maint jumper and got my error codes on the dash. I got two codes. A c21 intake air temp sensor and a c28 secondary throttle valve actuator error. I also contacted the tech department of Power Commander to make sure I was on the correct TPS wire since their instructions say I need the "pink" wire. Also I questioned them on how to tell if the power commander is working. It wasn't and they felt I had the wrong wire since I had tapped a pink/white wire. I propped up the rear of the gas tank then checked my schematics. It is indeed the pink/white wire but with a fluke meter on it I get nothing when I turn on the key and twist the throttle. My posi-tap connector was not puncturing the wire. So I took a pair of strippers and clipped the wire then eased the insulation back on both sides. Now I had a connection and my voltage is moving as per my fluke. I attached it to the power commander then started looking to see what I had either not connected or not connected well. I had read several comments about the air box connector but I was sure I put it on. I had connected the one on the front right, but not the one on the right rear. It was left off and after attaching to the airbox the FI errors left too. I put it all together and no error. Then I restarted and got another FI error. Then I restarted and it went away. I've read about FI errors that are intermittent for a few days so I'm not worried. When I run the tank out if I still get it I'll take the tank back off and check all the connections and the air box for possible leaks.

On a good note, the bike no longer lugs at low RPM when turning into curves. Smooth as silk.
 

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wow.

when i did my PCIII i undid one quick-connect between the ECU and the injectors and connected the PCIII in between. no stripping, no hunting for wire colors. it took 10 minutes. 9 of which was trying to get the quick-connect apart.

P.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
1000

I hear that on the DL1000's. That you can basically take the side panels off and it's really quick to do. Like 15 minutes and you get a nice cold drink to go with it while you admire your work. Maybe I did something wrong but the 2004 DL650 I did required me to remove the tank, the airbox, several connectors and hoses, the side panels and all connectors from the side cowling to remove the tank. If that wasn't enough the front injector was easy to remove but the back one took 3 sessions, lots of swearing and the misuse of several tools since it points slightly downward and there is no room to get a tool to it. The power commander for my bike has to plug inline with the injectors. In the end I had to ask my higher power for help and use a weird set of forceps I borrowed. The DL650 also requires the tap to the TPS wire. The one that came with the kit was horrible so I used a posi-tap to make the connection.
 

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I hear that on the DL1000's. That you can basically take the side panels off and it's really quick to do. Like 15 minutes and you get a nice cold drink to go with it while you admire your work. Maybe I did something wrong but the 2004 DL650 I did required me to remove the tank, the airbox, several connectors and hoses, the side panels and all connectors from the side cowling to remove the tank. If that wasn't enough the front injector was easy to remove but the back one took 3 sessions, lots of swearing and the misuse of several tools since it points slightly downward and there is no room to get a tool to it. The power commander for my bike has to plug inline with the injectors. In the end I had to ask my higher power for help and use a weird set of forceps I borrowed. The DL650 also requires the tap to the TPS wire. The one that came with the kit was horrible so I used a posi-tap to make the connection.
Doesn't sound like a PCIII....are you sure it is?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Pciii usb

Doesn't sound like a PCIII....are you sure it is?
Without a doubt it's a PCIII USB model for a 2004 - 2005 DL650.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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A good time to put your model/year in with your signature. Avoids confusion.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Signature

A good time to put your model/year in with your signature. Avoids confusion.
AHH, very good very good indeed

Thanks
 

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Without a doubt it's a PCIII USB model for a 2004 - 2005 DL650.
Sounds like a pain in the butt....glad I don't own a 650.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
HEY Wait a minute there

Sounds like a pain in the butt....glad I don't own a 650.;)
HEY I wouldn't go that far! I do miss my DR650 sometimes though. I went and looked up the install instructions for the DL1000. Man what a piece of cake. ANYONE can install that. Heck that's easier than putting an LED bar on the back of your bike. I'd go so far as to say that it looks easier than letting AutoZone come out and install wiper blades FOR you!!! I mean it's just removing the seat, one easy to remove side panel and a single connector. OH and attach a lead to the negative on the battery.

Interestingly, the DL650 power commander got rid of my below 4k hesitations but my top end suffered. I like it better because now I can gear down to corner but not lug. Now I get to find out how to play with those low, med and high settings. I think the high end might be too rich now.
 
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