Eastern Beaver had been the standard for a long time, at less than half the price:
Ditto. Installed mine the summer of 2012; no complaints and no issues.Eastern Beaver had been the standard for a long time, at less than half the price:
Yes, good point. I actually used a basic 4-pin relay to power the fusebox with a 30 amp inline fuse in the 12 gauge lead. That one was no longer available on Amazon so I linked to that fused one.Be careful where you mount the relay with the built in fuse. My fuse got bashed from the gear under my seat. I ended up removing it and using a standard relay with an inline fuse. The built in fuse is not protected nor is it very robust. YMMV. I've used the same fuse block in a few bikes now. Works great.
Two key features you're missing with the cheaper option: keyed power source and individual circuit fusing.I buy this equipment on Amazon.
You made some very good points. I liked your thread. The right fuse for each accessory is the right way to do it, excellent safeguard.Two key features you're missing with the cheaper option: keyed power source and individual circuit fusing.
There are good reasons to use (or not) a keyed power source. Easy to add a relay into the mix to gain a keyed power source and still keep things cheap.
But to skip fuses for each individual circuit, and use a single fuse spanning all 4 circuits, is risky. You want each of the four branches to have its own fuse of appropriate size based on whatever's connected on the other end.
You could add an inline fuse to each branch of the splitter. But at that point, I'd probably just find the cheapest fuse panel I could find rather than dorking around with all the extra wiring & splicing.