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And if you want to DIY from scratch this is a great start. You just need to add some wire and connectors. It's what I did - powered the fusebox relay from the tail light circuit so it is switched.

 

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Be careful where you mount the relay with the built in fuse. My fuse got bashed from the gear under my seat. I ended up removing it and using a standard relay with an inline fuse. The built in fuse is not protected nor is it very robust. YMMV. I've used the same fuse block in a few bikes now. Works great.
 

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Recent discussion here of some other options:

 

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Be careful where you mount the relay with the built in fuse. My fuse got bashed from the gear under my seat. I ended up removing it and using a standard relay with an inline fuse. The built in fuse is not protected nor is it very robust. YMMV. I've used the same fuse block in a few bikes now. Works great.
Yes, good point. I actually used a basic 4-pin relay to power the fusebox with a 30 amp inline fuse in the 12 gauge lead. That one was no longer available on Amazon so I linked to that fused one.
 

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+1 on Eastern Beaver
 

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Who doesn't like beaver and I've never been in Harbor Marine, but put "Marine" or "RV" on it and the cost doubles.

Summit Racing has splash proof fuse blocks for under 10 bucks. Wire it through a relay and you're good to go.
 

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I like the Eastern beaver stuff. The 3 circuit solution is what I currently installed on my Honda 500x
 

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2020 BMW R1250RT, 2019 V Strom 650
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Redmond, I just did this project with an amazon 6 fuse block, the one where they are all in a row. Spent less than half what the Eastern Beaver unit would cost. BTW velcro the block down, don't screw through the under seat plastic. I ordered multiple relays and 30 amp fuse links, sucker for volume purchases. So I can send you a relay and a 30Amp fuse link if you want to do it yourself. The relay in the center of the picture with leads to the right is the one. Tapped into a switched lead near the battery.
 

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Quite a number of customer reports regarding circuit board and connection corrosion after a year of use. Perhaps related to install location details but the more expensive unit is not water proof. Eastern Beaver with external relay is less expensive and seems robust according to reviews.
 

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2013 Suzuki DL 650 Adventure
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Power block is the best way to go, this is a much cheaper solution.

I buy this equipment on Amazon.

1. LST 4FT 12V Ring Terminal SAE to O Ring Connecters Extension Cord Cable Connector for Battery Charger/Maintainer
10.95
2. SAE DC Power Automotive Connector Cable Y Splitter 1 to 4 SAE Extension Wire Harness 16AWG 2ft
12.95


Once you put in the 4 foot line, you have a SAE connect that is easy to connect and disconnect to your SAE cable Y splitter
You have a solid connection and the Y splitter make your work a lot easier.

Optional
It for protecting your wire, It is a pain, but I think it is worth it.
3. ZhiYo 13ft-1/4” 13ft-3/8” 13ft-1/2” Wire Loom Split Tubing Auto Wire Conduit Flexible Cover.
15.95
 

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I buy this equipment on Amazon.
Two key features you're missing with the cheaper option: keyed power source and individual circuit fusing.

There are good reasons to use (or not) a keyed power source. Easy to add a relay into the mix to gain a keyed power source and still keep things cheap.

But to skip fuses for each individual circuit, and use a single fuse spanning all 4 circuits, is risky. You want each of the four branches to have its own fuse of appropriate size based on whatever's connected on the other end.

You could add an inline fuse to each branch of the splitter. But at that point, I'd probably just find the cheapest fuse panel I could find rather than dorking around with all the extra wiring & splicing.
 

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2013 Suzuki DL 650 Adventure
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Two key features you're missing with the cheaper option: keyed power source and individual circuit fusing.

There are good reasons to use (or not) a keyed power source. Easy to add a relay into the mix to gain a keyed power source and still keep things cheap.

But to skip fuses for each individual circuit, and use a single fuse spanning all 4 circuits, is risky. You want each of the four branches to have its own fuse of appropriate size based on whatever's connected on the other end.

You could add an inline fuse to each branch of the splitter. But at that point, I'd probably just find the cheapest fuse panel I could find rather than dorking around with all the extra wiring & splicing.
You made some very good points. I liked your thread. The right fuse for each accessory is the right way to do it, excellent safeguard.
I like it because all my accessories are at the front of the bike and I only have to run one 16 gauge line to the front.
I like being able to unplug from my 4 ft line and work on the accessories circuit at my workbench.
 

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2019 DL1000A
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And if you want to DIY from scratch this is a great start. You just need to add some wire and connectors. It's what I did - powered the fusebox relay from the tail light circuit so it is switched.
What model Strom did you put that on? Where did you put it?
 

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