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Discussion Starter #1
So, with the weather finally getting nice enough around here to ride a bit I have begun piling the miles on the 05 DL. I have noticed on my cheapy volt meter mounted in the AdvTech dash that at cruise I usually get around 13.9 to 14.2. Prior to start up I have 11.8 and at a cold idle i get 14.2 to 14.5 every day. Now, when warm at a stop light I notice it drops down to around 12.9. If i let off the brake it climbs back up to 13.9-14.3. If the cooling fan kicks on at a stop light then it drops way back down again. I have found that if i cut one headlight while in town it stays around 14v. My voltmeter is connected to the heated grip connector and thus far the only added electrical doohickey are my LED driving lights. I have them run through the EB PC8 and installed the headlight relay kit from EB as well.

During the off-season I checked my magnets and they are still firmly stuck in place and evenly spaced. I have a brand new battery that I am going to put in it this weekend and ride it to see if that helps. Electrical troubleshooting is not my forte but not afraid to dig in.
 

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Your readings seem fairly typical to me. There seems to be not much excess capacity indicated by the V drop when applying the brakes. Your bike has dual brake light bulbs, so they draw a fair amount of current.

I would just keep watching the readings and as long as they stay where they are now not worry about it. If they fade away especially when the engine is hot there may be trouble coming.

If you want to run heated grips and a heated jacket you may need to unplug one of the headlights or install a cutoff switch to release 55W more power for your heated gear.
 

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I put in LED headlights and LED tail/stoplights. don't know what the amp draw and thus voltage is exactly but it has to be quite a bit lower than stock. relays won't reduce the amp draw in fact they will slightly increase it but they are a lot easier on switches and wiring. If your voltage doesn't go below 12v and climbs well above it when the engine is running, you are fine.
 

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So, with the weather finally getting nice enough around here to ride a bit I have begun piling the miles on the 05 DL. I have noticed on my cheapy volt meter mounted in the AdvTech dash that at cruise I usually get around 13.9 to 14.2. Prior to start up I have 11.8 and at a cold idle i get 14.2 to 14.5 every day. Now, when warm at a stop light I notice it drops down to around 12.9. If i let off the brake it climbs back up to 13.9-14.3. If the cooling fan kicks on at a stop light then it drops way back down again. I have found that if i cut one headlight while in town it stays around 14v. My voltmeter is connected to the heated grip connector and thus far the only added electrical doohickey are my LED driving lights. I have them run through the EB PC8 and installed the headlight relay kit from EB as well.

During the off-season I checked my magnets and they are still firmly stuck in place and evenly spaced. I have a brand new battery that I am going to put in it this weekend and ride it to see if that helps. Electrical troubleshooting is not my forte but not afraid to dig in.
Good for you for buying the voltmeter!

I would not buy a battery until this is figured out. Yes, you inspected your magnets over the winter. But I would tell you that my suspicion is exactly that, the magnets! Your description of symptoms is more of a magnet issue than just a stator, although that does not mean I am ruling out the stator.

I would want to know what your "cruise" voltage is now with engine hot and at speed like it would have been when you mentioned it in the post and I highlighted. With the same accessories on, nothing unplugged. If that is down from normal, I would pull the magneto cover right away and make certain ALL gaps between the magnets are about 1/4".
 

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hmm

OP, you've brought up an interesting question. I have a hunch that you do have a charging problem - albeit, one that you still have time to address before anything seriously bad happens.

That said, I'll have to do some testing with a multimeter to be sure. I use a Signal Dynamics voltage monitor LED. It thinks everything is fine as long as the system voltage is between 12.9V and 15.1V, so I wouldn't necessarily know it if simply activating the brake lights took my system down to 12.9V.

FWIW note that I have a 2007 Vee which ordinarily should not be that different from your 2005 Vee - but there are caveats. I upgraded to an SH847 regulator/rectifier, and had my stator rebuilt by Custom Rewind. Overall electrical capacity should be about the same, as there's no free lunch, but exact voltage threshholds may differ.
 

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Did some testing after the ride home (so bike's fully warmed-up).

OP, I'm afraid you have a problem. My charging voltage hovers around 14.4-14.5V with just base load. Putting on the brakes has zero effect on the voltage.

That's just what I expected. I shouldn't see a notable voltage dip until I've overwhelmed the ability of the charging system to deliver power. You should not run out of excess power simply from switching the tail lights from running light mode (ca. 8W per bulb) to brake light mode (ca. 26W per bulb). That is only about a 40W increase, where you should have about 100W to play with at idle.

Before you bust open the stator cover yet again, though, test stator output as described in the service manual. Then we can suggest further steps. For example, it's possible you have a bad regulator/rectifier.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
@realshelby my highway cruise voltage with both headlights on is 13.9 to 14.1. Doesn't really drop if I turn on my Aux lights, but they are LED so I wouldn't expect it to. I hope to test out the stator according to the manual this week. I'll update with those results probably Tuesday.

Been pricing a stator online and wow they are pricey. Probably wouldn't gamble with an off-brand but the OEM is around $300. Yikes.

Attached (hopefully) is a shot I took of the magnets 600 miles ago. None were able to be moved at all by hand and I didn't want to wrench too hard as to not break the adhesive that is there. I didn't measure the gaps, but they all appear to be pretty close.

Edit to add: Pre-start voltage according to the same voltmeter is usually 11.6 to 11.9.
 

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Yes, the magnets look fine in that pic.

But that was 600 miles ago. I don't know how quickly these can come loose and migrate together. But having the voltmeter might have caught this early. Or it could still just be the stator. Assuming your voltages are not what they used to be and sometimes seem to be too low.
 

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OEM stator is expensive and garbage. I had one burn itself up within 7 months, and that was AFTER I fixed my rotor magnets and upgraded my R/R to an SH847.

So don't waste your money. If your stator is in fact burning itself (common problem sadly), you can have it rebuilt by Custom Rewind for far less than the cost of a new stator. They are a small shop in Birmingham, Alabama. I had them rebuild my stator in late 2017 & it was not only much cheaper than a new stator, but has lasted longer.

However, I haven't checked in over a year, so I don't know whether CR are still in business. They don't have a website, but their number is (205) 798-7282.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Finally some sort of update

Well, I am finally able to update this issue. The week following my initial post I was involved in a serious motorcycle accident on my Harley. Was blindsided by a deer at highway speeds, sadly the bike and deer are both toast. I was lucky enough to have landed in the shoulder where it was nice and muddy. Been a process to get back to riding but, thankfully, I am up and on 2 wheels again.

I was able to pull the stator cover off the Vee and the magnets are still perfect. Spacing is good, drain holes are not covered and all are still tight. I also pulled the stator off the cover and there is NO burn to it all all. I (hopefully) attached pics to show the magnets and the cleanliness of the windings. I do not have a multi-meter (yet) so i have been unable to do any tangible testing on it. My intent is to buy a decent multimeter this week and get to checking this thing out.
 

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Sorry to hear of your accident. Glad to hear you are on the mend though.

While you have the cover off and magnets exposed, add the JB Weld dam between them. Clean the area from all the oil and residue, then add the JB. This way you'll know the magnets are secure from this point forward.

Even if you have to go to Harbor Freight and get one of their cheapee "beginner" multi-meters, get one. You can check all sorts of things with them. There are tests to run on the stator while the bike is not running as well as when the bike is running. Also, there is a simple diode test of the regulator/rectifier you need to do with the multi-meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, so I have some measurements. With my brand new Klein multimeter I get 0.3 between all three contacts on the stator wire plug. According to the shop manual, that is within spec. Have to wait for my help to get home to try the 5k RPM unloaded test. I did, however hook up a 2nd cheap voltage meter directly to the battery posts and it was showing .2 to .4 volts higher than the mounted one that is connected to the grip heater pigtail. When applying the brake, with the engine running, the mounted voltmeter dropped from 14.1 to 13.8 with the bike cold. The newer voltmeter connected directly to the battery posts did not drop, stayed right at 14.4 to 14.5 at idle. My plan now is to first run the 5k RPM test to determine output. I also will be running a pair of wires directly to the battery from the dash and mounting up my newer voltmeter. Is the grip heater not a good place to get voltage from? If not, perhaps I was playing myself the whole time but trying to take the easy way. I hope to get it out and ride this week. It's been 2 months since it's seen any sort of real road action. Been on a tender the whole time however.
 

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There is one test you can do to the stator. A test I consider most important. Set on OHMS, place one lead on a good known ground. Place the other lead against one of the three wires coming out of the stator ( can be done with stator installed, just unplug the connector ). ANY movement at ALL with an analog meter, or ANY change in reading on a digital meter means a failed stator. Do this for each of the three wires. Again, any change in reading shows a short in the stator wiring. Might be good to try this with engine hot as that seems to be when it reduces charge output. Heat can allow the wires to touch where the short problem is, and it might not touch when cold.
 

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I would expect a 0.2 - 0.4v drop on any switched wires on these bikes so what you are seeing is not unusual.
 
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