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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Edited after some more work-

For starters, K3 DL1000 with 70k miles.

Did a valve check and new iridium plugs in preparation for a 3 week trip. All the valves were tight- glad I checked.

Will start but run rough. Will not idle unless I give it a little gas. Will pop / puff every couple of seconds from the front cylinder.

The front exhaust was not hot to the touch but the rear was.

Cam alignment questions seem to not be the issue anymore. Seems like the front cylinder is not firing.

And after adjusting valves, aligning per the manual


I have it tore apart again, checking the cams and alignment. All seems good.

Here is a video of it "running"
https://youtu.be/KRvBx6WTWtY


Spark issue? Timing issue? Electric? Vacuum?

I think I will start with spark and compression tomorrow.

Thank you in advance!


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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Just noticed I didn't have the cams rotated the same for the two images. (Before disassembly).

I must not have had TDC on one of my pictures.

Main post edited with updated and video.

More to come...


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Discussion Starter #3
Re assembling again, following the manual to a T. I think it was something other than the valve cam alignment.

Going to double check the rear then put it together again.


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Discussion Starter #4
Tried starting it again tonight and it was not running as rough- but still running on just one cylinder. Did not take off the valve covers.

Tested spark first- starting with the old (known working) plug, we tested for spark on the cylinder that was not firing. We were getting spark. Replaced it with the new Iridium plug and repeated the test. Got good spark on the Iridium plug.

So, spark was getting to the front cylinder.

Next was gas. Since there was no consistent explosion, the plugs should have been wet with gas if they were not firing- but they were not. They just barely smelled of gas.

So we have spark and air but no gas.

We also compared the exhaust output when it was idling in the beginning and both were pushing the same volume of air, just one was warm and the other was cool (due to no combustion)

So to try and trace down the fuel issue, we took off the throttle body. When we removed it, we could see into the cylinders and the rear (working) cylinder above the valves was wet, the front was mostly dry. They are on the same fuel rail, so it seemed the fuel was not making it past the injector.

We then tested the electrical wiring all the way back to the ECU to confirm the injector was getting the signal- and it was good.

So that leaves me with an injector that needs to be tested/cleaned and then re-install.




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Discussion Starter #5
After cleaning the fuel injectors, I swapped their locations to test and see if the problem persisted in the front cylinder, was resolved or migrated to the rear cylinder.

The problem stayed in the front cylinder.

So now it seems like a fuel delivery issue but it is not the injector or the fuel rail.

All the wiring was tested.

Can it be a sensor? I tested the CKPS and the resistance was within spec- about 190.

I am starting to feel like Thomas Edison... at least I know one more thing that isn't the issue...


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If it was running fine before the check/adjustment, I still say the timing is off. Almost identical scenario with my buddy's 06 1000, and he said he followed the manual to a tee. He literally checked everything like you have, and the problem was still there. Dropped it off at a local dealer.......the issue was the cam timing. :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Agreed, I think that is the logical next step- go back to the beginning. Thanks Big B


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I agree with BigB.

Feeling of the exhaust means nothing on these bikes. They are not completely separate pipes from each cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I agree with BigB.



Feeling of the exhaust means nothing on these bikes. They are not completely separate pipes from each cylinder.


I should have clarified- I was touching the pipes right after they came out of the heads.


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Wanderwill, you can still have gas, poor combustion, and plugs not wet.
You can have partial combustion.
How did it run prior to your valve adjustment? It ran well, what changed?
If you have the wherewithall, run a compression test. low compression due to incorrect cam timing can give you your symptoms.If you have a basic Engine Mechanical issue--like cam timing--that has to be addressed 1st.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Big B and others- you were correct- it was valve timing! Got it running tonight.

The strange thing is hat the rear cylinder was off and the front cylinder was correct. But the rear cylinder was the only one firing and running.

Thank you for the offer! I ended up staying up til 4am yesterday and built my own last night.

I did not initially rotate the engine 360 degrees after setting the front cylinder. So they were off by 1 stroke. It was giving me all kinds of false positives in trouble shooting. The injectors were not dirty. It they are clean now ;)

Time to put everything back together tomorrow and start loading the bike for the trip

Thank you again for the insights. Hopefully this helps someone else in the future.


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