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Discussion Starter #1
Right guys after thoughts and feedback please, my 2003 k2,went out Sunday 100 mile ride,stopping after 40miles for a brew,another 60 miles stopped at coast, after 1 hr,jumped back on bike seemed to turn over bit slower, had it optimate overnight then showing fully charged stood bike at work Monday night for 11 hours,came out,switched on turned over wouldn't fire,had to bump start it,back on optimate, tuesday and Wednesday night the same,thursday night 9hr shift it started, multimeter read 13.43 volts,straight off the charger,checked after stood at work had dropped to 12.88 volts, started it up,with lights on revved to 4k rpm multimeter was reading 14volts,can't work this out help please?
 

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Time for a new battery. Alternatively you have a power draw somewhere, but that seems unlikely.

You should fit a voltmeter to your bike. Mine shows a stable 13.9 volts with the engine running. Keep in mind that your model is notorious for having stator issues https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-2002-2012/400946-stator-magnets-jb-weld-pictures.html, but probably not in this case.
From what you say your battery is failing to hold its charge.
 

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Time for a new battery. Alternatively you have a power draw somewhere, but that seems unlikely.

You should fit a voltmeter to your bike. Mine shows a stable 13.9 volts with the engine running. Keep in mind that your model is notorious for having stator issues https://www.stromtrooper.com/dl1000-2002-2012/400946-stator-magnets-jb-weld-pictures.html, but probably not in this case.
From what you say your battery is failing to hold its charge.
I vote battery. That said, when did the stator issues start on the Vee - 2003 or 2004?

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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If you take a reading at the start of your ride, at the end for your ride and after you have parked the bike for a few hours you will know more.

If you have a charging problem it is more likely the voltage will be lower at the end of your ride than the start.

If you only get 14v at 4000rpm and considerably less at lower RPM's I would suspect you have a charging problem.

It becomes hard because a bad battery can give you a bad result when testing.

If the voltage drops while parked your battery is stuffed, a full battery is 12.8v if it falls much below that while just sitting overnight your battery is stuffed.

A good overnight test is turn on your headlight for a few minutes and burn off any extra voltage above 12.8v then let it sit. (the burn off is important)

If it maintains 12.8-12.7 overnight the battery should be OK if it continues to fall with no load look for a new battery.
 

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Install a voltmeter on the bike! This is the most important thing you can do on these bikes to keep you from getting stranded. Especially as they get older.

While this can be a battery, the fact that the battery charges up and seems to hold voltage for a while might mean other problems.

Stators can seem fine when cold but when they get hot they show a fault. Rotor magnets can move together and lower output of the stator. This also causes issues with the stator that can shorten its life.

If this were my bike, I would pull the magneto cover and inspect the magnets and stator. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!
 

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Mick,

Lots of good advice, so far, that'll keep you busy. The tests you can do on the stator and rectifier are pretty simple. Lots written up on this forum of how to do the tests. Some done with bike running, some with engine off. One test that is best done by an autoparts store (like AutoZone or Advance) is to have the battery load tested. They'll tell you quickly if the battery is worth keeping. If it is dead when you take it there, Advance will even charge it free before testing. And if you do decide to open up the side case to take a look at your magneto/stator magnets, go ahead and do the JBWeld modification even if they have not moved. Get ahead of that potential issue if you can. And by all means, do install a voltmeter on your dash. It won't cure any future charging issues, but it will alert you to potential problem so you can nip 'em in the bud.

Keep us posted on your activities and the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So far had conversation with previous owner/mechanic who guided me through text conversation on how to use multimeter to check battery and check for a drain, at same time had another conversation with a bike mechanic from where I work and also contact local bike dealer who ordered me the Suzuki recommended battery.Got a call 2hrs later to say battery had been delivered into shop,fitted new battery late last night ,bike started,connected optimate overnight, disconnected charger this morning, started,left off of the charger all day, will start later when I get home.Also new battery is bigger in size,mechanic from work checked after I sent him pictures of both batteries together and he also researched and said correct battery,the battery that was fitted was not suitable for big v-twin so touch wood the issue is hopefully now resolved. Will update you all later and thankyou all for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update on issue, got home after being out all day, bike not been on charger for about 9hrs turned igniton on fired straight off the button,turned off and done again started straight away, hopefully this has sorted issue, if ok I will reconnect the alarm next weekend,real test is bike being stood for 12hrs a day next week whilst at work .
 

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Install a voltmeter.......you will thank us.
 

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New battery has almost double the cold cranking amps of the old one 200 to 112. And a third more amp hours at 12 vs 9. It has glass mats fitted between the plates. These help protect the plates from vibration and allow an alloy with more lead to be used increasing capacity. The glass mats hold the acid in place, you never need to top up the battery and in a tip over they don't leak. All in all a much better battery for not that much more.
 

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Now you have to check that voltage reading against a reading taken at the battery and compare the two.

There will be some voltage losses between your new meter and the battery so you need to know what those losses are.

If that 13.6 is a true reading and your motor was running at the time of the photo there is a big chance your magnets have moved.

If the motor was not running at that time ignore that last advice.

If your magnets have moved your readings can fluctuate where as a good system will give steady readings, keep a close eye on that meter.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
At the time of the picture being taken the engine wasn't running as it was fairly late at night, will check the 2 readings later and post results.
 

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Popped out to local shop,checked on bike meter riding down the road was reading 13.3 volts.
Where are you taking the power from for your onboard voltmeter - tapped into the harness or directly from the battery?
 

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It must be tapped into the ignition system otherwise the volt meter would be on 24/7

The second photos is about what I would expect, a 0.9v difference is OK you just need to add 0.9 into your calculations in your head.


If you add 0.9v to the 13.3v you got on your ride your charging system is close to being perfect (allowing for inaccurate meters)

Just ensure the volts don't drop too far when the RPM's drop and all should be good.

The problem is there should also be a 0.9v difference between the first two photos as well. ????
 
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