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Select the proper option at the top of the if you have found loose alternator magnets


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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #41
ALSO--I didn't have a compass to check the polarity but I laid them out in the order they were in and I noticed that the ends were attracting one another but if you turned them around, they were pushing away..... Is that an accurate way to make sure you have them turned right?
That's fine.
 

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I've added my DL1000K7 to the poll!
Was riding home the other day and noticed voltage a LOT lower than it had been previously. Upon disassembly I found loose magnets. Still haven't examined the stator closely for physical damage but it test fine electrically.

I've also engaged the area Suzuki Tech rep on this (saw him at AIM Expo 10/18/14) and have compiled a list of usernames from threads on here. I've also done some preliminary research on safercar.gov - the NHTSA site and found more complaints on the SV1000S models than any other - they appear to use the same design.

I am just glad when I rode mine to Prudhoe bay and back to Tampa that it didn't have this issue - I can't imagine being stranded on the Dalton HWY with a magnet issue like this!!
 

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K6 with one loose magnet

My K6 DL1000 with 33K miles has been reading a down to 12.7V at idle after I get home from about a 1/2 hr commute. This is running a lot of electric gear, 90W jacket, 18W gloves and also grip heaters. When cold the voltmeter would read ~13.7V at idle and would run 14.1-14.2V while cruising >3K. The voltage drop at idle after fully warmed up is a new development.

I have been watching the known issue of loose magnets for a while now. I been wanting to change a leaking clutch push rod seal for a while now so today I pulled the magneto cover to check my magnets.

One magnet was loose, slid over next to adjacent magnet. I worked on that magnet for quite a while trying to figure out how to get it out of there. I could easily slide it back and forth between the two adjacent magnets but I could not get it to slide out and was afraid of breaking it.

I decided to clean things up well, slide the magnet were it belongs, and put a nice JB weld joint in the gap between all the magnets. I am hoping this is sufficient for the loose one since it seems that magnetic attraction keeps it so firmly adhered to the wall of the rotor that I could not get it out without fear of breaking.

I won't know if low voltage at idle under high loads is resolved by this but I am hoping I have forestalled a more expensive repair catching this early.

Any opinions on JB weld in the gaps is sufficiently reliable repair?
 

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Any opinions on JB weld in the gaps is sufficiently reliable repair?
There have been a few owners just fill the gaps instead of removing the magnets. So far all of those have been successful as far as I know.

In my opinion it is more important to fill these gaps to keep the spacing correct than to fret about trying to glue the magnets back in position. Maybe a bit along the outside edge also. Note that all the new model rotors (not the replacements) have the spaces between magnets filled completely.
 

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How does one set up a poll?

I am curious, how does one setup a poll? Is this only done by an administrator?

I think it would be very interesting to poll all of the forum members that have experienced the infamous fried stator to see if there are any cases where the stator has fried but the magnets have NOT been loose on the rotor.

I have a theory that the magnets coming loose and sliding up against each adjacent magnet might be the real root cause of stator failures. With the correct phase of magnetic flux interruption compromised by the offset magnets I think it might be possible that more than normal heating may be experienced by the stator unit because of higher peak voltage that would occur with the overlapped phasing.

Also the loose magnets have some opportunity to lift on the edge slightly due to the magnetic attraction to the rotor core sweeping by, it does not take very much motion for this to cause the magnet to come into contact with the rotor. I have read quite a few reports of the magnets actually being shattered.

Is this a question worthy of a poll?
Code:
Have you experienced stator failure without loose rotor magnets?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #47
Most stator failures are not accompanied by loose magnets. Creating a thread gives the opportunity to set it up as a poll. Check the appropriate box below the text. Try it in the testing grounds forum.
 

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Stators fail because the insulation around the windings fails and causes a short. The magnets are held by the rotor and if they were to "lift" they would contact the outer diameter of the stator. Which does not have wires on it. Still, not a good thing.

Speaking for the DL 1000 only, I am seeing a rather high percentage of stator failures that also include loose magnets. I can't say "most" at this time, but it is a considerable percentage.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #49
DL650s have stator failures too but loose magnets are rarer.
 

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My magnets were loose, stator burned too. I got the full Suzuki screw, pricey to fix. But, it wasn't hard to fix. I was in a hurry and just put a new rotor on, I had a trip to go on. So far so good, hopefully it will last another 30,000 miles. :)

The old rotor is sitting on my bench, I'm going to re-glue the magnets and have it for a back up if I can get the old glue to release and not break a magnet! The upgraded series regulator is nice and stable so far, I see 14.15 at idle and even with heated gear it stays around 13.5 with the cooling fan on at idle. Under normal conditions with heated jacket and gloves on I see 13.9 volts cruising at 4,000 rpm. I got the rotor puller off eBay for $20, made the removal fairly painless. After it set under pressure for a few minutes it just popped off.
 

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Stators fail because the insulation around the windings fails and causes a short. The magnets are held by the rotor and if they were to "lift" they would contact the outer diameter of the stator. Which does not have wires on it. Still, not a good thing.

Speaking for the DL 1000 only, I am seeing a rather high percentage of stator failures that also include loose magnets. I can't say "most" at this time, but it is a considerable percentage.
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Add me to the casualty list. First and last Suzuki: O5 V with 29k mi, loose magnets and bad rotor. Found 5 loose magnets, one broken, one smashed into grounds. Using about 1 qt oil / 1.5k miles, undoubtedly related. Is Homer Simoson still on.Suzi's engineering staff?

Just hoping to get this POS in salable running condition (with full disclosure) with minimal blood loss, thenshop for a Honda. Anyone with two intact magnets or a decent salvage rotor for sale? Much appreciated.
 

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As per my post on the charging problem thread:
Just found one magnet loose and shifted along with one fried pole on the stator. Changes in the on board volt meter readings helped in early detection.
 

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While I've got it on my mind and I took the photos, I'll post them here, as this seems to be where I ended up when searching this problem.

The magnet dimensions for an '07 DL1000.

60 mm end to end (not taking into account the curvature)
33 mm wide
8 mm thick







I have four loose ones available, marked with the correct side facing "out" so the polarity matches up upon re-installation.

Hope this helps someone out.
 

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Added another 2004 to the list. 4 out of 6 magnets were shifted. One coil was burned and my R/R is trash. I've also owned this bike for three weeks.
 

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I've got the same magnet problem. One shattered & another broken. The rest have moved closer together. Has anyone had any help from Suzuki? Also do I have to undo the Allen bolts on the rotor to get it off? Thanks all. [email protected]
 

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I need one magnet.

Please write me if you can help me out. viljar.raudauk(ätt)gmail.com

Last week I was planning to ride TET Latvia but my DL lost his magnet. :furious:
transeurotrail-Latvia




While I've got it on my mind and I took the photos, I'll post them here, as this seems to be where I ended up when searching this problem.

The magnet dimensions for an '07 DL1000.

60 mm end to end (not taking into account the curvature)
33 mm wide
8 mm thick



I have four loose ones available, marked with the correct side facing "out" so the polarity matches up upon re-installation.

Hope this helps someone out.
 
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