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Select the proper option at the top of the if you have found loose alternator magnets


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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
There have been a number of reports of loose magnets on alternator rotors. This is an attempt to see how many and on what bikes. I screwed up the question in the box a bit. Just select all that apply. You can check more than one option if you had more than one occurrence.

Pharmguy didn't have a problem other than his kid playing on the computer.
 

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Thanks Greywolf!

If I had known how to do a "poll" I would have already posted one.

I'll be curious to see how this turns out.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bump. There are a lot more than two.
 

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There have been a lot of K3 model SV 1000's that have had the magnets come loose. Some have used JB weld to put them back into place.
 

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'06 1K w/three shifted magnets, and bad stator and R&R @ 61,000 miles. Rounded up a magnifying glass to check close for chips tomorrow. If the magnets are intact I'll be researching the best glue options.
 

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My wife has an 09 and I have an 08 both are Wee's. No problems with the magnets so far.I voted as one but there are two bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Some '08 and later 650s won't have magnet problems. Embedded magnets began appearing in '08 but some later models still have glued on magnets.
 

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Hate posting on a pole thread, but it does bring it back to the top again! I used JB Weld to re-install my shifted magnets because it was good for 500 degrees F and was highly resistant to acids, fuel, and other chemicals. I resisted using too much force to remove the remaining magnets for fear of breaking them; but added a coating between them.
If you ever ran a magnet through the dirt when you were a kid you can guess what I'm going to say next. When you try to add the product between the magnets it will stand up like stubble on a three-day beard! However it does settle in as it hardens: I guess as the metal particles in the epoxy become magnetized.
What this does to the epoxy structurally I have no idea. It's held together for two days now, and should it let go in the next 40,000 miles I'll bring this pole to the top again!
 

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Over the last couple of months, My '07 1000 stranded me three times with a dead battery.

The first time, I assumed it was a dead battery, since I didn't really remember how long ago I had bought it. Plus, I was itching for an excuse to try one of those lithium iron batteries.

I had ridden the bike to work. Took it for my customary hour-long joy ride at lunch, all with no indication of problem. When ready to go home, battery could not turn over the engine, nor could it even wag the instruments.

Had a guy jumpstart me, and rode it the 10 miles to home. Ordered a new battery and replaced it.

In the following weeks, the scenario repeated itself twice. It seemed very odd because once someone boost started me, I could just ride the bike home, let it sit for a week or longer, and it would still start up fine and strong. Then I could ride it to town, park it no longer than 10 minutes, come back to it and...dead again.

So I bought one of those portable boosters to carry with me in the top case while I read forum posts about similar problems. Figured the booster would at least get me home until I figured out what was going on. Had one opportunity to use it.

Took the magneto cover off yesterday and, sure enough, the six magnets were all abutted next to each other. None are broken. One is still attached.

So I will be adhering them back on today, using JB Weld. There's a quick-setting version which I think I will try. I made some little rubber spacers to ensure uniform spacing from the one that is still attached. I will clean everything spotless with laquer thinner and/or acetone. Then intend to glue them back in the original order and orientation one at a time.

I'm going to try to leave a "thick film" of the epoxy between them. Based on past experience with JB Weld, I'm pretty confident that should suffice to prevent their shifting.

Looking closely, on mine it seems that the original adhesive was fully spread on the mating surfaces of the magnets, and a single uniform bead about a quarter inch wide was run around the middle of the inside of the rotor to serve as a hedge against their shifting (which, obviously, didn't work).

I bought the bike from its original owner with about 8K miles on it. It now has less than 24K miles on it. I know it has never been run hot since I've had it, and very seriously doubt it ever was by the original owner. I don't abuse it at all; if anything, my riding style babies it.

I did, however, change to full synthetic oil at last oil change, just a little while prior to the first manifesation of the charging problem. That could, of course, be mere annecdotal coincidence. After the rework is fully set, I'll be refilling it with Mobile 1 synthetic; seriously doubt that JB Weld would be affected by it.

Am feeling pretty confident the fix will work and will last. Thankfully none of the magnets in my instance seem to be damaged at all. We'll see.

All of the magnets show a full thin coating of the original adhesive on their entire mating surfaces with no gaps or voids. All of the five loose ones came cleanly loose from the inner surface of the rotor. That suggests to me possibly inadequate cleaning of the rotor before adhesion of the magnets at the factory.

James
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Use the regular JB-Weld. The quick stuff has a much lower temperature tolerance.
 

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James, I agree with Greywolf on using the standard slow cure JB Weld. I researched it very carefully when looking for an adhesive to hold the magnet in place on the Final Drive Minders I make for Beemers. The magnet company actually recommends it for this and the specs from JB Weld give it well over 400 degrees of temperature rating. It is rated for the oil bath environment as well.

If I were doing mine I think I might scuff the rotor surface with some 400-600 grit paper and clean very well with solvent. It appeared on mine that the adhesive the factory used came loose from the rotor surface, I think scuffing the surface may help keep that from happening again.
 

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You left out a box for " no issues or problems"
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You left out a box for " no issues or problems"
I tried that with other issues. It doesn't work. The numbers of "no issue" people checking are so under-represented the info is useless.
 

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I think it is expected that people with no applicable issues just won't answer, leaving one less category to deal with from a statistical point of view. I suppose that could have been make a little clearer in the original post, though.

G26
 

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James, I agree with Greywolf on using the standard slow cure JB Weld.
Well, dang. I shoulda checked back here before proceeding.

Anyway, too late now. I did the repair Sunday evening. Took my time, adhering one magnet at a time. Made a fairly tidy job of it. Just buttoned it all up again yesterday.

Am reading 13.4-ish across the battery terminals at idle; it increases to about 13.8 at around 4000 RPM.

James
 

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Is there any kind of noise from the stator and rotor when this condition is present? Like a rattle or tappety noise?
 

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No noise that I heard. I suppose that those that had a magnet hit the stator might have had a bit of noise from that. But submerged behind all that metal and with oil on it there may not have been much that could have been heard.

Anyone running a Vee with any miles or some age needs to be running a voltage meter that they can easily see!
 

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Can someone post pics of good versus bad/wobbly magnets? I am a crayola sort of dude and hi resolution pictures help me out quite a bit.

Thank you.
 

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Typical "loose" magnets as they were found:



This is a brand new rotor for comparison:
 
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