StromTrooper banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Vendor
Joined
·
4,912 Posts
At the prompting of members here I have had discussions with Jim at Eastern Beaver and Brooks at 12 O'clock Labs about developing a plug and play running light adapter kit.

Jim passed on the project at this time, but graciously offered to provide advice. Brooks thinks he has what it takes to produce the kit, but needs some pictures of the connectors and information about the color of the wires.

I will take some pics of the connectors on my V2, but I suspect that the V2 may be different than the other Stroms.

So..... we need pictures of the last connector in line before the turn signals and the color of wires on the other Stroms .

Update: Until further notice we are discontinuing sale of the running light adapters, "plug and play" or otherwise.

I think they are a good idea and if you can work through the installation they a good thing to do for yourself and your passenger. We have attempted to make them more user friendly by teaming with other business entities, but have not been successful as of yet. I'm both sad and sorry to say that I can't recommend the current offering be purchased from anyone at this time unless you are very comfortable with cutting and splicing wires and willing to convert to LED light bulbs in the turn signal housings.

This is more work than many owners want to do. If you are really comfortable with electrical wiring and want to do the work you can ask us for them, and provide them at cost for now, but we have taken them off our website.

If you have purchased them from us or anyone else and find them to be more pain than you expected I suggest you ask for a FULL refund. Anyone having purchased them from us is welcome to a FULL refund if they want it.

Sadly, they are NOT "plug and play" for the stock turn signals and the maker has reversed his position on compatibility with the stock turn signal bulbs.

I'm still hopeful a good product can be made. On our end happiness is guaranteed. Unfortunately, I don't see how anyone could be "happy" with the current product as advertised vs. the reality of the design. Therefore, we are backing away from further sales.

I am hopeful that this will come to pass, but this first attempt was not successful. I will not offer turn signal running light adapters again until we have a fully compatible fully complete kit and easy to install kit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
Adaptors

I have the 12 Oclock Labs Running Light Adapters for front and back from SV Racing. They come with lots of M & F bullet connectors, which can be soldered or crimped on. My problem has been trying to use the K7 wiring diagram to figure out where to insert these into the wiring. In the rear, I would need to remove the rear fender to access the connectors and in the front I have not really got a clue how to do it short of cutting in or using PosiTaps. I have Labs Fixed Rate Flasher but have not determined where to insert it in to wiring. I switched to LED clusters, which are much brighter than the OEM 1156 bulb. I think Jim made the right call on this because only in the rear can you find running light power from the tail light. Anyway, the high flash rate I have now is attention getting, particularly with the 4-way flasher approaching an intersection or left turning driver.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
4,912 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It certainly is easy to imagine a plug and play solution to the rear. All the necessary elements are close together.

I don't think it will be necessary to use the same switched source for the front as the rear. There are switched sources and grounds in the front wiring connections available.

The more I look at the wiring diagrams and connectors, the more it looks do-able.

I have been able to find Wee, Glee, and Vee wiring diagrams on line with Google. These provide the wire colors and functions, but we still need pictures of the connectors showing the orientation of the wires in the connectors.

I have the Vee2 data/pictures already. It may be the first to have a plug and play kit. Hopefully someone will come along soon with pictures or video of the connectors on the other models. Maybe someone "snowed in" prepping their bike for the coming year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Hi Rick

Here are some photos.

Connector opened up.



Top left is the end from the wiring harness.

Lower and to the right is the turn signal end.

Here is the connector closed/connected



The little lever thingy on the side needs to be lifted up and away from the main connector body to unlock the bottom part to separate the connectors.

The connector is not very accessible .... had to get two hands in to pull aside the lever and separate the connectors.

Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
If you make a plug and play adapter it would be nice to have a wire that carries the original positive (on off) to feed to a turn signal buzzer. Just an ext a wire..... or better still a buzzer added to the running light adapter kit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
richlandrick

Anything new regarding upcoming LED options??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
It feels like 12 O'clock Labs may pursue a plug and play version. I have installed a replacement Running Light Adapter for front turn signals only, which works fine but is tedious to install. Not wanting to step on commercial toes, but there are some clarifications to the wiring instructions which might become available.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
My Luddite tendencies inadvertently posted the above.
The main thing is that the red power lines can be joined, and tie into the brown wire to the left position light, which is switched. Then 4 wires on each RLA side tie into the wiring to the respective turn signal lights. I soldered in outboard of the connector for each light, meaning that the main wiring harness was not disturbed.
2013 DL650 ground is black/white, which ties to black on the RLA. So with the RLA to be mounted up on the left side, will only need to extend the 4 wires over to the right turn signal. All my connections were soldered, except that red was connected to brown with a Posi-Tap.
With left turn signal unhooked at the connector, and removed from bike, clip off connector from bulb pigtail, leaving enough to solder to. RLA white to connector black; RLA black to connector black/white. Then RLA black to pigtail b/w, and RLA blue to pigtail black.
Then add about 2 feet of wire to each of RLA other side 4 wires. Number each, and make a chart so you can keep track of each color/number. Detach right side turn signal bulb connector. Clip off the pigtail side of the connector, leaving enough solder room on the leads. Trial assemble with RLA on the left, threading right side wires in front of frame cowling over to right side to determine wire length. Be generous. Remove RLA and associated wires from bike.
Solder, outside of bike, RLA white to light green lead from connector. And RLA black to b/w connector lead. Loosely reinstall the new RLS associated harness. Solder RLA black to bulb pigtail b/w. Solder RLA blue to bulb pigtail light green. Remember to install shrink tubing before all this soldering. Apply heat gun. Connect connectors, reinstall left turn signal bracket.
Tidy up with zip ties and some split loom if you have it. Enjoy. Oddly, with all new identical incandescent bulbs, left side flash rate is a bit slower than right side, but not really a problem.
Chose not to use the bullet connectors; bulky. Left position light socket twists out, hard for me to reinstall, but I only removed the plastic around instrument cluster.
Did I mention this was tedious? YMMV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Rereading this for umpteenth time makes my head spin. I think this is correct, but no guarantees. Follow available wiring diagrams. I apologize for not knowing how to do paragraphs here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
Thanks, Anselmo

I wanted to find a way to build a connector at the flasher next to the battery where the wires for all 4 TS have to be found. But, I don't think I can do it, and all the harness wires at that point are tightly bound. I also thought about getting an EB connector for the heated grip connector aft of the radiator for switch power and then installing the RLA in front outboard of TS connectors as you have done. Your method will work fine and is not as involved as the switched harness I build for 10 W CREE lights. I have installed 48 LED clusters in each of the TS using the 1156 base-pig tail in amber light on a K7 from Motorcycle LED Light Bulbs

This link is for the 1157 cluster in red for tail/stop lights but you will get the idea. These are about 3 W each and are far, far brighter than the OEM bulbs. I think you may have smaller TS with white lenses. There is enough extra volume in mine and I had wrap the outer circum. with Scotch-Brite matting to make snug in the TS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Wildbill-
My original plan was to use the Eastern Beaver heated grip connector pigtail, but subsequently it seemed easier to save it, and to tie in to the lighting circuit.

My take on LEDs is that reflector design is as important as the bulb. Rear view vs side view needs to be considered. I have a Cyclops Adventure LED headlight in my 2012 Husqvarna TE310 which I am very happy with, but I think one is better off using integrated units, as opposed to switching in components. And the potential liability in a fatality accident for using non-DOT components is a concern, since it may raise a basis for the insurer to deny coverage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
Rereading this for umpteenth time makes my head spin. I think this is correct, but no guarantees. Follow available wiring diagrams. I apologize for not knowing how to do paragraphs here.
Well thank you though for posting your detailed instructions, we appreciate it! Might be a while before I start this project but I'm gonna give it a try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Very reasonable price. I will be interested in your opinion on whether stock incandescent bulbs will be too hot. And, my handwired set-up, with all identical bulbs, blinks faster on the right, like LEDs are in there. Left mostly blinks regular rate, but occasionally faster, for no apparent reason. The longer wires go to the right side. Everything is soldered and shrink wrapped. Except Posi-Tap into left eyebrow light power source.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
Very reasonable price. I will be interested in your opinion on whether stock incandescent bulbs will be too hot. And, my handwired set-up, with all identical bulbs, blinks faster on the right, like LEDs are in there. Left mostly blinks regular rate, but occasionally faster, for no apparent reason. The longer wires go to the right side. Everything is soldered and shrink wrapped. Except Posi-Tap into left eyebrow light power source.
You can get an LED compatible blinker relay that pops right into the V-Strom relay socket that does not change speeds based on the load.

As for stock incandescent bulbs... best to replace them as the wires in the bike are designed for intermittent load, not on all the time. With the 12 O'clock running light adapter the power comes straight from the battery so it would not be an issue.

I am replacing my turn signal bulbs with LED as I want to save on power so I can run other gadgets such as the smart jacket lighting and crash alarm I'm working on. Arduino processor and flora accelerometer chipset... piezo electric siren and LEDs. Don't want to look like a dead skunk on the road if I have a crash....
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top