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I was tired of the H7 Halogen bulbs burning out and wanted LED replacements. I didn't want anything that required modifications to the enclosure.

I saw these on Amazon:



"H7 LED Headlight Bulbs All-in-One Conversion Kit Super Bright CSP chips 55W 12000LM 6500K,2 Pack"

They are plug and play and the same total size as stock H7's.

Since they were only $45.99 Can$ for a pair I thought I would give them a try. I installed last night and the closest to a snag was having to turn the power plug 180 degrees so they would work. They seem to work fine but I did not get a chance to try them at night (hopefully this eve.)

The beam looked like I may need to lower the aim a bit but seemed to be a relative flat cut off.

Should I be concerned these don't have an external heat sink/fan or has the technology now matured to the point where that is no longer a concern?

..Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't get a good check on it last night (it was late by the time I got to it.).

I will try and check it out properly this eve.

..Tom
 

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Not the bulb itself but the heatsink at the rear gets very warm.
And that is probably my biggest concern (assuming the pattern works out to be decent) because it doesn't have a heat sink, at least not like others do.

Their description says this:

"♥[Fanless]:Unique 6063 aviation aluminum lamp body heat sink design extends the heat dissipation surface,Adopted high thermal conductivity copper substrate, constant thermal conductivity, heat stable output."

which I take to mean the body of the unit itself is the heatsink and the design takes the heat from the LED itself to the outside of the body.

Do I risk overheating the headlight unit where the bulb attaches? Is there likely to be more heat inside the headlight unit than halogen (my thoughts ae there shouldn't be.) I am hoping to check the beam pattern tonight, perhaps I will also get out my Infrared thermometer and see if it gets hot at the back.

..Tom
 

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LED bulb development appears to be leaping ahead in bounds. Look at the size of the actual LED's! Perhaps that is part of why they generate less heat.
I would install and forget. Surely the manufacturer must have deemed that this generation does not need a large heat sink.
 

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And that is probably my biggest concern (assuming the pattern works out to be decent) because it doesn't have a heat sink, at least not like others do.



Their description says this:



"[Fanless]:Unique 6063 aviation aluminum lamp body heat sink design extends the heat dissipation surface,Adopted high thermal conductivity copper substrate, constant thermal conductivity, heat stable output."



which I take to mean the body of the unit itself is the heatsink and the design takes the heat from the LED itself to the outside of the body.



Do I risk overheating the headlight unit where the bulb attaches? Is there likely to be more heat inside the headlight unit than halogen (my thoughts ae there shouldn't be.) I am hoping to check the beam pattern tonight, perhaps I will also get out my Infrared thermometer and see if it gets hot at the back.



..Tom
I am inclined to say no. My last LED failed due to fan failure and after fan croaked it worked a few weeks before burning out. New generation fanless have built in thermal protection they will reduce output to prevent overheating.

Speaking of reduced output if you think this would happen when you get stuck in traffic on hot afternoon. Not an issue when you need light at night.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It was a busy day and eve for mw so I didn't get a lot done.

I looked at the light pattern a bit as evening set in and the cutoff wasnt as sharp as I thought. I guess the best description is btha some light was leaking above what I would think would be the cutoff I went out for a short ride as it darkened (maybe only 50 km / 30 mile) and I can't say whether it is an improvement over normal halogens or not. Nobody seemed to mind the beam. Coverage seemed okay. But I think it just wasn't as bright as I expected. My stock high beams seemed plenty bright. The led lows weren't dark. Maybe the whiter colour on the low just didn't seem to illuminate as well in twilight while bthe yellowish highs seems plenty bright.

A bit confused... I think I'll try again tomorrow night.

..Tom
 

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I'm curious on the final results Tom. I purchased some H4 LEDs bulbs for my DL650 but the heatsinks were huge and would require I cut the plastic covers. I was hoping an LED design like the ones you posted would come along. Do you have a link?

With the extended aluminum housing on the inside its' venting heat on the inside, just like a halogen .
 

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which I take to mean the body of the unit itself is the heatsink and the design takes the heat from the LED itself to the outside of the body.

Do I risk overheating the headlight unit where the bulb attaches? Is there likely to be more heat inside the headlight unit than halogen (my thoughts ae there shouldn't be.) I am hoping to check the beam pattern tonight, perhaps I will also get out my Infrared thermometer and see if it gets hot at the back.
..Tom
V-Tom, check the heat signature of the halogen bulb first to establish a baseline for the led.
The led(s) in the bulb will always be cooler than incandescents. It's the power to drive those led's to effective brightness that causes the heat.
Also, use the schnozz-o-meter installed above your upper lip tho detect hot plastic & wiring:smile2:.
 

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I'm curious on the final results Tom. I purchased some H4 LEDs bulbs for my DL650 but the heatsinks were huge and would require I cut the plastic covers. I was hoping an LED design like the ones you posted would come along. Do you have a link?

With the extended aluminum housing on the inside its' venting heat on the inside, just like a halogen .
I take this back. After some reading up on the bulb I bought, I noticed a review on another website that stated the mounting H4/H7 plate, that gets locked into place by the default locking mechanism, can be separated from the bulb/heatsink for easy mounting. Once I figured that out it took less than 5 minutes to install these, even easier than installing a OEM halogen:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JLDMMJ3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Once the plate is mounted you simply run the bulb through the plastic cover and rotate/lock the bulb into the mounting plate which is already locked in place. Wish I had figured that out before the 2 hours of trying previously to mount these.

$34 for a pair of high output LEDs seems pretty reasonable, especially with big solid heatsinks. Looking forward to testing the lights tonight.

I could just be ignorant, and any LED replacement bulb has the same detachable mounting plate :grin2:
 

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Coverage seemed okay. But I think it just wasn't as bright as I expected. My stock high beams seemed plenty bright. The led lows weren't dark. Maybe the whiter colour on the low just didn't seem to illuminate as well in twilight while bthe yellowish highs seems plenty bright.

A bit confused... I think I'll try again tomorrow night.

..Tom
This is my main gripe with LED's. When you look at them they literally blind you but when you're behind the light, they just don't throw the light down the road like halogens or HID's. The exception being the LED's that cost $150+/pair and not all those are great either. At that price point all will have heatsinks so verification of fitment would be required to determine if mods are required or not.
 

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It was a busy day and eve for mw so I didn't get a lot done.



I looked at the light pattern a bit as evening set in and the cutoff wasnt as sharp as I thought. I guess the best description is btha some light was leaking above what I would think would be the cutoff I went out for a short ride as it darkened (maybe only 50 km / 30 mile) and I can't say whether it is an improvement over normal halogens or not. Nobody seemed to mind the beam. Coverage seemed okay. But I think it just wasn't as bright as I expected. My stock high beams seemed plenty bright. The led lows weren't dark. Maybe the whiter colour on the low just didn't seem to illuminate as well in twilight while bthe yellowish highs seems plenty bright.



A bit confused... I think I'll try again tomorrow night.



..Tom
FWIW you want some leakage as long as it is not obnoxious. In the past I had HID fitted to projectors in cage and very sharp cutoff with very little leakage made it hard to use you couldn't read the sign without switch to high beam.

IIRC SAE specifies 5% leakage and perhaps you perceive more leakage because you are getting more light? The standard halogens are cupped at 1400lm and LED will give you something like 1800-2500lm.

BTW the 10000lm you see on packaging is misnomer; it usually means 2 bulbs with double filament so on low you are getting 1/4 = 2500lm at best. Still x2 of conventional bulb.
 

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On my '04 650 I got a pair of cheap-o LED's from China. About $25. Install was easy, the rubber boot fit around the fan housing OK. I shoulda marked down the date of installation.
I am carrying the original H4 bulbs in the tail box in case the LED's crap out.
I don't get much night riding in so i have no idea if they are in the face of oncoming traffic but I do dip the lights when riding at night.
I do have the Eastern Beaver set up with a lamp cut out so maybe I'm only half blinding?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Tom, this is the light I would recommend after installing the H4 version on my glee:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07GKRKN5B/ref=twister_B07GKD4JTX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That will give you a spare if you ever burn one out. They are quite powerful and the throw on low beam is excellent and adjustable. High beams are silly.. too much light :p
Those look like a great choice although I already got the ones I mentioned in the first post. I have at my desk right now a set of h9's to try out on the high beam.

..Tom
 

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Tom'

I would keep a close eye on the fanless ones. if as stated the aluminum body is the heatsink i would worry about them melting the plastic housing where they mount. give the mounting surfaces a feel when you stop for petrol on your way down and make dam sure they aren't getting too hot. Bring your halogens just in case. I like Webfors choice and want a true riders report from both of y'all at the rally... LOL

See ya there my canuckian brothers

JG
 

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Thanks for posting that.

As far as heat goes incandescents have to dump more heat into the surround than LED's. Think about it and it's obvious why. (Hint, total power in, efficiency and anything that doesn't come out as light comes out as heat)

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pair-Philips-H7-12000LM-LED-Headlight-KIT-White-Beam-Replace-Xenon-Halogen-Globe/392132442098?epid=14028935367&hash=item5b4cea37f2:g:AtwAAOSwGrVckKGW

These seem to work VERY well. I did put a thin smear of silicone grease on the mount section just to remove more heat from the housing. It also has a bigger heatsink area than the original posted.

I did have to adjust the low beam down quite a bit, otherwise it fits neatly - i.e. the cap goes back on with no issues, the cutoff is razor sharp and better than the incandescent it replaced. It also throws a lot more light to the sides which is a desirable property here.

My only concern is long term durability, we have lousy weather for night riding right now so the only test has been a half hour ride through semi-rural streets.
 
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