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Discussion Starter #1
2003 DL-1000
27k miles
Remus exhaust, stock air filter.

My bike was having issues where it would stall if I pulled the clutch in to coast to a stop. Plus I had a coolant leak and a vibration issue.

So I replaced all of the coolant hoses, the TP and STP sensors, synced the throttle bodies, and installed a Power Commander with a program for my exhaust and the V-Strom still runs the same as it did before. And what I mean by runs the same, I mean runs like shit. It still stalls when I pull the clutch in and coast to a stop.

TP and STP sensors and TB sync were adjusted per the shop manuals directions. I think, since I’m new to doing this.


Also, I’m still getting a vibration that I can feel through the pegs, seat and handlebars that becomes very noticeable at 5k rpm and up. It becomes even more noticeable when I hammer the gas.

So, please help me out here fellas, what do I need to do here?


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Couple of things there.
When you say you replaced the secondary throttle position sensor, do you mean the servo? The sensor is on the primary plates.
When were the valve clearances last checked and the spark plugs changed?
Those models are known for what's called "clutch chudder" which would explain the vibration, though these all tingle a little bit.

The other thing you need, and I mean NEED, is to go get some rider training because coasting into the lights like that is very bad riding technique.
 

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My guess is that the TBS was not done correctly. There is a stop screw that can keep the adjuster screw from doing its job. The manual says to keep a certain clearance. If you turn the adjuster screw too far and use up that clearance it is impossible to set the TBS properly. Review the manual procedure carefully.

It could also be that the TPS was set without the bike at the proper temperature. That throws the setting off.

Check also your idle speed (mine likes to be around 1200).

You likely also have a shit clutch basket. Realshelby here can help you out with that.

Above all, though, please provide us with the bike's history. How long have you had it? Did it just start doing this or has it done it the entire time you've owned it?
 

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He may well benefit from a clutch basket. But it isn't doing the things he is complaining about so we will leave that to later.

Several things jump out. But a big one is the stalling and vibration under load. I will bet power is down. You may have a cylinder not firing correctly. A likely cause is a throttle body boot out of position allowing air to bypass the throttle body blade. Would explain your symptoms.

I would carefully inspect those first.....
 

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A question Husky: Does it stall coming to a stop with the transmission in neutral and NOT pulling the clutch lever in?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
History of the bike. I bought it two years ago with 23k miles. It’s always been “vibey” since my first test ride but the vibration has gotten progressively worse.

Maintenance performed since buying it.

New spark plugs
New air filter
Both throttle body sensors have been replaced
Valves have not been checked
New chain and sprockets
I just cleaned the chain and everything inside the counter sprocket cover which was pretty goopy with chain lube
New rear wheel bearings
Tires are good
New Power Commander

I have rider training, and don’t coast to a stop. My bad for not being more clear on when it does it.

It will stall as I pull the clutch in in the last couple of feet before I stop. Sometimes it will catch itself and idle normal other times it stalls. It started doing this last summer and became a more constant issue.




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idle speed? and valves are about due for a check.
 

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What is your idle speed ?
 

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Idle speed needs to be 1300 rpm. That fixes a lot of issues on these bikes.

Lot of stuff going on. Are we fixing the vibrations or the stalling? May, or may not, be related. Valves are not likely to cause running issues. Yes, I know it can, but I will bet they are not that tight.....

Did this get worse with the power commander?

A vacuum leak will still be the first thing I would look for.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Today’s plan.

Ride bike to get up to normal operating temp.
Come home and do another TB sync
Check TP sensor adjustment
Check clutch switch
Check for vacuum leaks
Ride again and report back


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Discussion Starter #14
So I bumped the idle up a little and it’s probably at around 13-1400 rpm, I’m guessing. Took it for a short ride to get it warmed up and no stalling issues. Got home, checked the gap on the throttle set screw, it’s good, checked my TB balance and it’s dead on, checked TP sensor, it’s good and then I put about 40 miles on it. The bike stalled on me once while I was in a parking lot. So, I’m guessing my idle was a little low.

Thanks all for the help, I really appreciate it. Noww to deal with the vibration issue.


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If you set the idle too high, you will experience idle "hang". Too low and you experience the idle "stall". Somewhere in between is the happy place. But that all depends on the other stuff being set right too.

Glad it seems to have been an easy fix for at least the stalling issue.

Now figure out the vibration. The bike should be pretty smooth at 5k rpm where you say it is not.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Bike still stalls and vibrates. I’m out of time and patience so it’s in the shop. I’ll keep you all posted on what they find.


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This may not be your problem, but it might.

I recently had a problem wit the following symptoms.

Bike was hard to start. Slow to fire up and sputtered.

Ran better when warmed up, but would try to die when not in gear. The warmer the engine got the better it ran.

Figured it was water in the gas, so added half a bottle of HEET to the tank.

Ran a little better and so ran it down to a half tank and filled up again.

Now runs normal.
 

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This may not be your problem, but it might.

I recently had a problem wit the following symptoms.

Bike was hard to start. Slow to fire up and sputtered.

Ran better when warmed up, but would try to die when not in gear. The warmer the engine got the better it ran.

Figured it was water in the gas, so added half a bottle of HEET to the tank.

Ran a little better and so ran it down to a half tank and filled up again.

Now runs normal.
I was waiting to see if anyone mentioned putting an additive because even though injectors are relatively bulletproof, its good to rule them out by running some techtron or something through the system. I did that straight up when I got the bike, then after a few months used seafoam and it definitely runs better now. However I would possibly check out the spark plug wires, sometimes they can be a problem...Otherwise agree with everyone else on the potential cause
 
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