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I own a 2006 dl 1000 I have spent 1000s on trying to fix an issue I'm suffering with .when travelling long distance and on the motorway the bike is faultless .the problem starts when I slow down ..the revs starts dropping and eventually won't start unless you hold the clutch in and start it with using high throttle rpm and loads of clutch control .I'm at the end of my tether .any advice or experience would be much appreciated .as soon as you leave it to cool down she starts with no issues until after riding for 30 or 40 miles
 

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I think the place to start would be by confirming the throttle body boots are securely attached to confirm there is no air leaking into the intake around the attachment points. If you've had a backfire out the intake it can sometimes blow the boot/s partly off. As they age the rubber can become stiff so they might require more clamping force to keep them in place.

Another place to look is at all the vacuum lines to ensure they are not split and cracked or missing.

Good luck, hope you find a simple solution!
 

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Agreed, TPS was first thing I thought about.

How many miles on the DL1000?
 

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The fuel filter or crud would show up on the motorway not when he gets off.

Can you tell us what you have done so far to try and fix the issue.

If the motor is low on compression it will be fine in the higher RPM's but struggle when things slow up, have you ever done a leak down test ?
 

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I am with the TPS (throttle position switch) guys on this one.

You can place the bike in dealer mode and ride it. When it acts up, you will get real time data on the switch calibration.
 

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The bike is a 2006 model so there have been a lot of years in there to deteriorate parts. I would l start with basics, inspect inside of tank for rust or water. Then check all the rubber parts in the intake system for cracks or leaks. The TPS can be checked with a ohm or volt meter (ohm meet when its disconnected, or volt meter when the system is powered up). Don't overlook other sensors as some have lots of "range of authority" (amount they can change fueling). For example, the temperature sensor has a lot of influence over fueling.
Start with basics, verify systems. "Test, don't guess".
 

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Test, but also be aware that the throttle position sensor can test OK when cold, and yet malfunction when warmed up.

That was how it was with the worn out TPS on my 2007 DL1000. It wouldn't start acting up until it was good and hot, for example after an hour or two of riding including highway miles.
 

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The best method of testing the TPS, is to replace it. Heat can ofren cause the TPS to fail. Have a look at Stalling after long highway cruise. and Checking TPS question
Replace the TPS. Yes, there are ways to test it. Can you attach a scope to the bike and watch output from the TPS while riding? That is the only way to really test one. They fail when hot, meaning while you are riding.
Very common problem and your symptoms are on the extreme side of normal but still similar to what we have seen before. While in there, DO carefully inspect your throttle body boots for full seating and tightness. Don't waste your time on the fuel system. It would start and idle with a nearly completely plugged up fuel system. Would not run under load....
 

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Don't let this distract from the help offered above, but I have a VERY STRONG SNEAKING SUSPICION that the Fuel Injectors on these bikes can become obstructed after the fuel pumps internal filter fails. Not like a carbs jets varnishing over, but actual particulate crud making it's way into the injectors. I had similar symptoms on my 2014 Vee2 after using gas from a can that my son later said might have had water and dirt in it.

Try a coupe full throttle runs after letting the bike warmed up. Throttle wide open through the gears. If it runs better afterwards, I would suspect the above.

Then again, might not have anything to do with it.
 

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I am going to disagree with some on testing the TPS. In dealer mode you can see the tip off point on the TPS. Once hot and malfunctioning, you will see a change in the dash reading.

You can also try adjusting the TPS, instead of replacing it. I did this and the bike ran like normal and still runs like normal years later. Will this work on other bikes, who knows, but it is a free attempt. Would a new TPS have fixed my bike.....sure and was the route I was heading until I did not need to.

I offer this suggestion if you don't want to throw parts at it just yet.
 

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I am going to disagree with some on testing the TPS. In dealer mode you can see the tip off point on the TPS. Once hot and malfunctioning, you will see a change in the dash reading.

You can also try adjusting the TPS, instead of replacing it. I did this and the bike ran like normal and still runs like normal years later. Will this work on other bikes, who knows, but it is a free attempt. Would a new TPS have fixed my bike.....sure and was the route I was heading until I did not need to.

I offer this suggestion if you don't want to throw parts at it just yet.
You can do some stuff to "test". You can adjust them. No money spent. But a good bit of time and they are a bit on the aggravating side to work on.
I think fooling with them could in some cases dislodge crap inside them....allowing them to work fine. At least a while as some have experienced. These are simply a wound wire resistor with a contact slide mechanism. What happens is that they become worn/corroded/burned in one area. That is why you can shut off the bike, roll the throttle off/on several times and it will work ok for a bit.
Based on the time I have spent on them, If I have enough money saved up from collecting pop bottles I want a new one!
 

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@realshelby ...........I get it and understand where your coming from. But my labor is free and I don't mind tinkering.

As for the TPS, it can be reached from the side with a 1/4 inch drive and extensions to tweak the adjustment. Easy peasy. If you need to replace the TPS the plastic comes off.

Not to mention it might not be the TPS.......in which case you gotta go get more pop bottles ;)
 

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Test, but also be aware that the throttle position sensor can test OK when cold, and yet malfunction when warmed up.

That was how it was with the worn out TPS on my 2007 DL1000. It wouldn't start acting up until it was good and hot, for example after an hour or two of riding including highway miles.
My experience mirrors yours exactly. I had adjusted my TPS because it read it was misadjusted according to the ECU. Well I think the previous owner had purposely misadjusted it just to keep it running while he sold it.

But I didn't know that until I correctly adjusted it, it ran/idled good, until about 10-12 minutes into a ride it started hesitating real bad, then it didn't want to idle at all so I went back home. I had a snack, pulled my tools out, loosened TPS maintaining it's same position, started the bike and then it was idling fine. Well since the bike had previously been warm, about a minute later the hesitation came back and then the bike wouldn't start unless I adjusted the TPS position to C_ _ at idle. Problem disappeared as soon I replaced and adjusted the new TPS.
 

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I managed to swap my TPS without removing fairings.

It required a lot of patient effort with a low-profile ratcheting driver, but I got it done.

Your call whether you want to do it my way, or take off crash bars and plastic. My way made it much easier to go on a test ride, to verify adjustments.
 

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