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Discussion Starter #1
The rear caliper pin hanger slotted plug won't come out, any advice on a way to remove it. Bad place for a slotted screw.

Also are the Galfer black pads better for the rear brakes? Less likely to lock up maybe?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Penetrating oil like a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is one method. Another is an anti corrosion agent like ACF50 or DeOxit. Give them time to work. On the tool end of things, an hand impact wrench is a tool everyone who does their own work should have.

 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Plan B is to use one of the liquids previously stated and allow time to let it work. Then use a ice pick or similar pointy device to create a dimple at 9 o'clock near the edge of the stuck part. Put the point in the dimple and hold the pick at about a 45 degree upward angle. Tap the pick handle lightly with a hammer until the plug breaks free.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Think I'm screwed, I started slowly and kept getting more creative and ended up with this(see photo) any way to salvage this or am I looking at a caliper $150 replacement stemming from a small slotted cap not coming off, why make this slotted:furious:

Do yourself a favor, remove and anti seize this little cap every 8 months or so to avoid this, jeez
 

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I had this happen recently and tried using a stripped screw extractor with drill but ultimately what worked was cutting a bigger slot with a dremel and using a screw driver after spraying thoroughly. Maybe the extractor would work on your situation
 

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On E-Bay there are lots of calipers(Some with master cyl.) under $50.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
2006 Wee

tried an extractor, thought it would easily back out. Just kept getting worse, hole-keep digging scenario. drill, dremel . cut off hacksaw

What if a try to back out the pin with channel locks, don't care if I damage the pin, may be able to force it through

So buying a used caliper is through ebay is good option.
 

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Does the head of the pin sit on any sort of lip inside the caliper? If it does, you're going to have a hard time unthreading it from the other side, even if most of the head is gone. If I was in your shoes, I would probably try what you're thinking of, since it looks like it might be the last thing that you can try. I would try and cut the pin so you have as much of it as possible still attached to the caliper, and I'd try and file a flat side on each side of the pin. That should give a set of vise grips a better purchase on the pin. And I would soak that thing with something like PB Blaster for about a day. If the head of the pin isn't sitting on some sort of recess in the caliper, I'd take it out from the rear of the caliper with the vise grips. If there is a lip there, then thread it into the caliper from the back side, and hopefully you can thread enough through to be able to grab the pin from the other side and unthread it the rest of the way.
 

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Remove the calliper, cut out a small section of the pin that will allow the pads to be removed or cut the pads away, file a couple of flat spots on the remaining part of the pin then use a good pair of vice grips to get things moving.

If it still feels like it may not free up consider having a bit of steel welded to the pin to use as a leaver.

oops, as he above said,
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the help.... found a solution

I was looking at the parts diagram and it came to me, if I didn't ruin the pin hanger hex head, I had room to simply insert a hex wrench. sprayed in liguid-wrench, made sure I had a solid connection and slowly turned the wrench, reversing direction and back out again, the broken cap screwed out with the pin.

I was fortunate when I initially destroyed the plug and avoided damaging the threads and purposely didn't drill in very deep.

So I only need to buy a plug. Lesson learned

What didn't work,

I first tried an awl, to pierce a hole and pry it off, then a dremel to cross cut a channel so I could try using a phillips head , then the extractor, which needs depth to work, cap too thin

What did
Drilling dead center with increasingly larger diameter bits, avoiding going deep and avoid the threads, clean out debris, lube and simmer, use hex head wrench, back slowly
 

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Just a comment, if you aren't up for the rubber plug as a fix, it's M8, buy an M8 hex head screw and cut it right down.
 

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...
I first tried an awl, to pierce a hole and pry it off, then a dremel to cross cut a channel so I could try using a phillips head , then the extractor, which needs depth to work, cap too thin...

Just to point something out:

I believe that the awl was to be used to try and turn the screw not punch a hole and pry it out. Usually you can get a buggered up screw to turn if you use something like a chisel (or awl in the is case) and turn the screw while tapping on it.

Glad you got it out though!
 

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I bought some left turning drill bits. They were fairly cheap and I would guess the quality isn't great, but for something like this plug, a bit that drills in the "un-screw" direction can sometimes help. At least it doesn't hurt. Greywolf's suggestion of an impact screw driver is excellent. When Japanese bike engines were put together with Phillips head screws the impact driver was a must have tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I knew Greywolf had the answer, just didn't get it, how can you pry off a threaded cap, ya can't

Totally missed the whole "point"of the awl, to use as a handle to turn the head...duh
 

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Totally missed the whole "point"of the awl, to use as a handle to turn the head...duh
Maybe not a handle per se but when the awl is tapped with a hammer while angled at 45 deg to the cap, it will impart a force to unscrew the cap (dimple at 9-o'clock and tap downward = lefty-loosey).

Thanks though for alerting me to the potential for that cap to seize. Mine easily unscrewed and I placed some blue threadlocker on it (coat all threads and seal from water seepage). My KLRs have no caps over the pins, so it wasn't anything I would be aware of as a potential issue.
 
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