[MountainLagoon]

Hello,

I found a few complete torque value charts in this forum (and my service manual), but I wanted one for my periodic maintenance, so below is my list of bolts to check, A few questions for the strom guru's....
Are there any more bolts anyone would suggest to check at the regular intervals on my DL650A?
Also are there any known issues with anything coming loose on this model?
Does anyone see a blatantly wrong torque value in my list?

CHASSIS BOLTS & NUTS – page 2-27, 2-28
TORQUE TABLE – page 9-42

ENGINE SUMP BOLT CRUSH WASHER - Suzuki part No 09168-12002
Size - 11.8mm ID x 16mm OD x 3.5mm thick

OIL FILTER – 2 TURNS
OIL DRAIN PLUG – 21 Nm, 15 lb-ft

SPARK PLUG – 11 Nm, 8 lb-ft - triangle mark to exhaust side.

FRONT AXLE = 12mm Hex head tool – 65 Nm, 47 lb-ft
FRONT AXLE PINCH BOLTS – 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft

REAR AXLE NUT – 100 Nm, 72 lb-ft WRONG… use 85 Nm, MAX
REAR SPROCKET BOLTS – 60 Nm, 43 ft-lbs WRONG…. use 40 Nm MAX

FRONT BRAKE CALIPER BOLTS – 39 Nm, 28 lb-ft
FRONT BRAKE BLEEDER VALVE 7.5 Nm, 5.5 lb-ft

BRAKE DISC BOLTS FRONT AND REAR – 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft
BRAKE MASTER CYL MOUNTING BOLT FRONT & REAR - 10 Nm, 7lb-ft
BRAKE HOSE UNION BOLT - 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft

REAR BRAKE CALIPER BOLTS – 22 Nm, 16 lb-ft
REAR BRAKE BLEEDER VALVE – 6 Nm, 4.3 lb-ft

EXHAUST PIPE + MUFFLER MOUNT BOLTS – 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft

STEERING STEM HEAD NUT – 90 Nm, 65 lb-ft
FORK CLAMP UPPER & LOWER BOLTS– 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft
HANDLEBAR CLAMP BOLTS – 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft

COOLANT DRAIN BOLT – 13Nm, 9.5 lb-ft

ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET BOLTS (CRASH GUARD) – 25.5 lb-ft

OIL COOLER MOUNTING BOLT – 10 Nm, 7 lb-ft
OIL COOLER HOSE UNION BOLT – 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft

REAR SHOCKER UPPER & LOWER MOUNTING NUT – 50 Nm, 36 lb-ft
CUSHION ROD & LEVER NUT – 78 Nm, 56.5 lb-ft

 

[greywolf]

ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET BOLTS (CRASH GUARD) – 25.5 lb-ft

That's an error. Somebody read the wrong line on the table. It should be 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft
It's correct in the DL1000 manual.

 

[MountainLagoon]

Thanks for taking the time to check my toolbox list Greywolf.

I checked the engine mounting bracket figures in my service manual.

On page 3-11 on the "engine installation" parts diagram item "I" is 25.5 lb-ft and on page 3-12 it states this again also with a pic showing to use thread lock 1342
These 4 bolts were replaced with the longer ones to secure my SW Motech crash gaurds.

Is my manual incorrect in this case?? like the rear axle and sprocket torque values.

My DL650A is a 2010 model, E24 - Australia

My service manual is part No 99500-36135-01E

 

[Sprocket]

If you check the SW Motech instructions for installing the crash bars, I think you'll find they specify a torque close to the 16.5 lb-ft that Greywolf recommends.

Also, those bolts typically have threadlocker on them, so after you've torqued them properly when installing them, you shouldn't retorque them.

 

[greywolf]

On page 3-11 on the "engine installation" parts diagram item "I" is 25.5 lb-ft and on page 3-12 it states this again also with a pic showing to use thread lock 1342

The other changes from the manual you have listed are the result of experience people have had with the parts involved. The 25.5lb-ft rating on 3-11 and other places is just plain wrong. 25.5lb-ft is the rating for 10mm bolts and those are 8mm. The DL1000 uses the same bolts and they are correctly listed at 16.5lb-ft. There have been a few posts of people using that too high rating creating aluminum (aluminium in the Queen's English) "springs" as they smoothed the holes in the frame.

 

[MountainLagoon]

Thanks, I must have got lucky with my install.
I will have to leave them as they are now, and hope they can be removed when necessary.
Appreciate the advice and your keen eye picking up my incorrect value.
Now going to get a red pen and my service manual !

 

[honest bob]

Something you might consider if you are concerned about fasteners coming loose is just marking them with an indelible sharpie. A vertical line drawn on the end/head of each fastener, that concerns you, from center to top, will give you a quick reference mark that you can check as often you see fit. I have done this on many critical fasteners for years and it has saved a ton of time and it has increased confidence. The only drawback is you must erase the mark when you disturb the fastener for some reason.
I don't agree with Sprocket entirely that you can't check a locktited fastener. If a fastener is torqued with locktite it can be checked with a torque wrench set at the correct torque because the wrench will not break the locktite and will not move the fastener as long as it has held it's place. If it moves the fastener, the locktite must have failed.

 

[BruceP]

I am not sure how you intend to "check" the torque on the fasteners.

I hope you do not expect to simply hit each fastener with a torque-wrench. This would be checking STATIC friction which is not the intended measurement in your above list.

To properly torque a fastener, you need to LOOSEN it.... then bring it into torque-specification by tightening it (in correct order as applicable.)

If said fastener has locktite (or simular), then you need to REMOVE it, clean it, prepare the surfaces, re-apply the locktite and finally reinstall to proper torque.

If said fastener is a TTY (Torque To Yield) type of fastener, then once it is removed, it MUST be be discarded and replaced with another TTY fastener.

I guess I am saying... It is a lot of tedious work to loosen and re-torque everything to specification... even if they are simple fasteners without special needs.

Properly-designed and specified fasteners should never NEED to be revisited. If a fastener has a tendency to loosen, then locktite blue should be specified in the 1st place. (Are you going to open-up your engine and check the bearing-cap bolts?... of course not!)

 

[MountainLagoon]

Cheers for the torque tips, I will "dot" the bolts with white out after checking torque.

My toolbox list is additional to the 6000km muffler and chassis bolt tightening as recommended in my service manual.

My list is a quick referance for tasks like oil and spark plug change, front and rear tyre/rim removal, brake bleedeing/pad/fluid change, fork position change, coolant change etc. Hopefully someone else can find it usefull now that that the engine mounting bracket bolt torque is correct (thanks Greywolf). I feel confident with these tasks after doing them on various bikes over the years. So my manual only comes out for "other" repairs/mods.

Since installing my swmotech crashgaurds removing the cowling is a PITA.. is is it bad wrench practice to remove the crash gaurds and therefore the bolts (one side at a time to ensure engine position) at the 6000km service intervals???
With the bolts cleaned and the correct torque I can not think of any reason not too? and it will stop more scratches apperaing on my cowlings!

 

[dtalk]

ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET BOLTS (CRASH GUARD) – 25.5 lb-ft

That's an error. Somebody read the wrong line on the table. It should be 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft
It's correct in the DL1000 manual.

I actually didn't know about this until after I installed my crash bars. Luckily, my arm overrode my brain; I refused to apply force beyond the point where it "felt" right. Maybe I benefited from inexperience: if I was confident that I knew what I was doing, I might have believed the wrench and spun those suckers right off. :beatnik:

 

[MountainLagoon]

Luckily my install went OK too,

I will make sure the chassis is warm from a long ride to help break the locticte when I remove the bolts and as mentioned by BruceP to properly clean and prep them before the re-install at the correct torque (next 6000km service)

thankfully the accumulated knowledge and helpfulness of the people on this forum has saved me from stripped threads in the future.