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I bought a DL1000 a few months ago, a 2003 model with 14,000 miles. Runs great but it has a little surge or something at around 3000-3500 rpm. I decided to go ahead and follow some of the suggestions here and bought a PCFC which seems to be the same as the PCV but for the less features.

I have not received it yet but I was wondering if I could ask a question. I guess I could load the maps on this thread and try them out, but all I would like to do is to actually eliminate the stutter at mid RPM, possibly keeping a good MPG.

The bike is all stock and I only decided to get this FC unit because I really hate the hesitation/surge.

I guess I would use the one that says economy?
 

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I bought a DL1000 a few months ago, a 2003 model with 14,000 miles. Runs great but it has a little surge or something at around 3000-3500 rpm. I decided to go ahead and follow some of the suggestions here and bought a PCFC which seems to be the same as the PCV but for the less features.

I have not received it yet but I was wondering if I could ask a question. I guess I could load the maps on this thread and try them out, but all I would like to do is to actually eliminate the stutter at mid RPM, possibly keeping a good MPG.

The bike is all stock and I only decided to get this FC unit because I really hate the hesitation/surge.

I guess I would use the one that says economy?
Since the Power Commander is a piggyback unit, think of it as adding or subtracting fuel to the fuel map that already exists in OEM ECU.

If you only want to address those rev ranges you mentioned, you can simply zero out the preloaded fuel map and then add or subtract fuel in the areas that you care about.
 

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Since the Power Commander is a piggyback unit, think of it as adding or subtracting fuel to the fuel map that already exists in OEM ECU.

If you only want to address those rev ranges you mentioned, you can simply zero out the preloaded fuel map and then add or subtract fuel in the areas that you care about.
Thank you, that's what I thought... I guess usually the stutter would mean that it is a little too lean? Meaning I would have to increase the percent of fuel in the mid range?

This is kind of what I get from what I read from the different forum threads...
 

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Thank you, that's what I thought... I guess usually the stutter would mean that it is a little too lean? Meaning I would have to increase the percent of fuel in the mid range?

This is kind of what I get from what I read from the different forum threads...
I believe you are correct, although there's plenty of tuners on here that I am sure can correct me, if I am wrong.

From what I understand, the bike being lean in those rev ranges was due to making it able to pass emission regulation tests.
 

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I believe you are correct, although there's plenty of tuners on here that I am sure can correct me, if I am wrong.

From what I understand, the bike being lean in those rev ranges was due to making it able to pass emission regulation tests.
Thank you very much for the help. I will read up a little more to see how to go about this. I have a few days before the unit arrives to me...

then I will post some feedback and my experience with it.
 

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I purchased the PCV module and ran the 20-017-005 MAP with excellent results on a stock air filter and exhaust. My flat spot was a little lower in my experience at about 2700rpm, and almost dumped me on a couple of left turns. With one exception, I never noticed that flat spot again after installing the module. At start up, the bike gave off a smell of unburned fuel, which I thought was kinda cool!
 

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I purchased the PCV module and ran the 20-017-005 MAP with excellent results on a stock air filter and exhaust. My flat spot was a little lower in my experience at about 2700rpm, and almost dumped me on a couple of left turns. With one exception, I never noticed that flat spot again after installing the module. At start up, the bike gave off a smell of unburned fuel, which I thought was kinda cool!
I'm going to give this one a try too. I have never had excellent results with any of the maps.
 

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I purchased the PCV module and ran the 20-017-005 MAP with excellent results on a stock air filter and exhaust. My flat spot was a little lower in my experience at about 2700rpm, and almost dumped me on a couple of left turns. With one exception, I never noticed that flat spot again after installing the module. At start up, the bike gave off a smell of unburned fuel, which I thought was kinda cool!
Thank you for the info and that's great to know. Since the PCFC has several possible maps I think I will keep the stock on on there and load a few extra ones, then try each one and see which is best for me.

Also see if there is one that does not change anything but allows me to tweak it via the pots...

I am getting this in a few days...
 

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Thank you for the info and that's great to know. Since the PCFC has several possible maps I think I will keep the stock on on there and load a few extra ones, then try each one and see which is best for me.

Also see if there is one that does not change anything but allows me to tweak it via the pots...

I am getting this in a few days...
Regarding the pots.

They are a very course resolution tool to quickly see if adding fuel/removing fuel has some impact/change on the problem area you have. The problem is that they apply the changes over a fairly large range of rpms and over ALL throttle inputs, and if you look at any of the custom maps out there, you will see that there can be big swings in fueling from one cell to the next (where a cell is the intersection of a throttle position and engine rpm points). In fact, many can quickly go from double digit positive, to actually being negative (taking out fuel), in just a few cells.

Before you use the pots, my advice would be to hook up your computer to the unit, open the software, start the bike, then turn the pots and watch to see the fuel trim number change. The trim values change with very little turn on the pot. Those hashmarks don't really help you without looking in the software real time to see what the trim number actually is.
 

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Thank you for the extra data and that makes sense. I also can understand that each bike is a little different from one to the other so there is no "one fits all" perfect map, surely the best should be done by an expert using proper machines, dyno, etc. But all I am trying to achieve is resolve the small hesitation. If I can achieve that without messing up the rest of the performance and MPG, I will be an happy camper... :smile2:

Regarding the pots.

They are a very course resolution tool to quickly see if adding fuel/removing fuel has some impact/change on the problem area you have. The problem is that they apply the changes over a fairly large range of rpms and over ALL throttle inputs, and if you look at any of the custom maps out there, you will see that there can be big swings in fueling from one cell to the next (where a cell is the intersection of a throttle position and engine rpm points). In fact, many can quickly go from double digit positive, to actually being negative (taking out fuel), in just a few cells.

Before you use the pots, my advice would be to hook up your computer to the unit, open the software, start the bike, then turn the pots and watch to see the fuel trim number change. The trim values change with very little turn on the pot. Those hashmarks don't really help you without looking in the software real time to see what the trim number actually is.
 

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Well I got the unit and checked it out on the computer, I also compared some of the other maps that I downloaded from the forum.

The Dynojet one has -(minus) values all over the place, while the Fuel Moto has +(plus) values all over the place...

Not sure I get why, they are supposed to be for the same bike...

I guess I have to install it and try it, I loaded 8 maps so I can switch between them while riding and testing...

unfortunately I won't be able to install it for another couple of weeks. But this is a progress report I guess.
 

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I finally had a chance to install it last night. Put on the Fuel moto map. It seems to have a little more certainty at lower RPM, the surge I felt at 3000-3500 is still there but that might not be a carburation issue, maybe it's just a vibration or something. But it surely seems a little smoother between 2000 and 4000 rpm. The idle is also a little faster, just above 1000 rpm. I did not ride much but enough to have an idea. I have a couple of more maps on the unit that I can try, will do so in the next few days and will post back. So far it seems good though.
 

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I finally had a chance to install it last night. Put on the Fuel moto map. It seems to have a little more certainty at lower RPM, the surge I felt at 3000-3500 is still there but that might not be a carburation issue, maybe it's just a vibration or something. But it surely seems a little smoother between 2000 and 4000 rpm. The idle is also a little faster, just above 1000 rpm. I did not ride much but enough to have an idea. I have a couple of more maps on the unit that I can try, will do so in the next few days and will post back. So far it seems good though.
The surge at 3-3.5k could very easily be related to adjustment of the secondaries.

Also, have you had a throttle body sync recently?

I noticed my idle going up slightly when using the PCFC as well, didn't matter which map (even the zero map). Not sure why this happens. However, your idle should be adjusted to around 1200-1300 rpm, sounds like yours is still too low. Might bump it up a bit. (Note: correct idle setting will change with temp, i.e. when it's colder I have to adjust the idle down to keep it around 1200; that same setting results in an idle too low when it warms up, so I have to adjust it upward for warmer temps).
 

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The surge at 3-3.5k could very easily be related to adjustment of the secondaries.

Also, have you had a throttle body sync recently?

I noticed my idle going up slightly when using the PCFC as well, didn't matter which map (even the zero map). Not sure why this happens. However, your idle should be adjusted to around 1200-1300 rpm, sounds like yours is still too low. Might bump it up a bit. (Note: correct idle setting will change with temp, i.e. when it's colder I have to adjust the idle down to keep it around 1200; that same setting results in an idle too low when it warms up, so I have to adjust it upward for warmer temps).
Thank you for the data. Not sure what the "secondaries" are. But I also think I have not explained well, mostly for lack of proper nomenclature I guess... I am not a mechanic or an expert.

When I got the bike I noticed that around 3000-3500 (more or less) during accelleration, there was a change in the way the engine spins/pulls. Not sure how to describe it, it does not stop or delay but it changes, the noise changes as well as the vibration from it. It seems as if it was running differently. I guess when I use the word "stutter" it was the wrong one. It kinds of changes a bit but then goes back to the regular noise and vibration.

I installed the PCFC in the hope to remedy this, installed a Fuel Moto map from this forum and set it to run with that. It actually feels better starting up from the bottom, when at a light for example and overall accellerating. The different sound/vibration is also a little less, or so it seem. But it is still there. The low RPM pull is noticeably better, stronger and linear. So overall it was positive.

The mileage went down from 46 to 43 on the freeway, riding at about 65 or so.

I know that if I brought the bike to someone to do a dyno test and tune up it will make it better, but I am short in cash and I was hoping to just resolve this myself.

In looking at the original map from Dynojet and the one from Fuel moto I see that where the Fuel moto has more + numbers the Dynojet one has - numbers. I want to try the original Dynojet one and see what happens.

Anyone has any idea as to why that would be? I mean the - values for Dynojet map compared to the + values of the Fuel Moto?
 

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If you hold the engine speed in that 3k-3.5k range while going down the road, under light load, what happens?

Secondaries are the second set of butterfly valves on Suzuki throttle bodies. They are the plates you see at the top of the intakes when you take the air box off. Underneath those are your primary throttle body plates. The secondaries are controlled by the computer via a linkage connected to a stepper motor. The primaries are controlled by your throttle. Secondaries are used to help with torque at lower engine rpms and primary throttle openings. If they are not "synced", then that can cause some surging at steady state lower rpms or lighter engine loads. I tried to sync mine earlier in the year and I think I must not have gotten it right, because now at about 4k-4.5k at steady speed under light engine load, I can feel the bike noticeably surge (like someone is lightly turning the throttle back and forth).

Lots of info here on the secondaries if you do a search.
 

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If you hold the engine speed in that 3k-3.5k range while going down the road, under light load, what happens?

Secondaries are the second set of butterfly valves on Suzuki throttle bodies. They are the plates you see at the top of the intakes when you take the air box off. Underneath those are your primary throttle body plates. The secondaries are controlled by the computer via a linkage connected to a stepper motor. The primaries are controlled by your throttle. Secondaries are used to help with torque at lower engine rpms and primary throttle openings. If they are not "synced", then that can cause some surging at steady state lower rpms or lighter engine loads. I tried to sync mine earlier in the year and I think I must not have gotten it right, because now at about 4k-4.5k at steady speed under light engine load, I can feel the bike noticeably surge (like someone is lightly turning the throttle back and forth).

Lots of info here on the secondaries if you do a search.
Thank you very much for the data. I understand more or less, I guess as much as I can without opening the engine myself. You explained very well.

It does not seem that what I am experiencing is that, what I experience is some sort of "difference" at the certain RPM but only when accellerating with the throttle opened fast.

In the first 2-3 gears this is definitely something I can feel easily, when in higher gears at the same speed, as long as I don't open the throttle wide all of a sudden, it does not really do much in terms of that. I mean it is reasonably smooth. Even cruising at those RPM it does not really chug bock and forth or hesitate, especially with the PC FC now, this even even better and pretty smooth.

i still feel that "difference" in sound and a little in the overall vibration in the first 2-3 gears but with the FC it's less noticeable.

I probably can't explain myself too well... but i can tell that the Fuel Moto setting I got from the forum works better then stock.
 
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