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Crisco summer map on my 05

I installed crisco summer map in my 05, remus, otherwise stock DL

When you look at the map in the compare function, is a very linear map compared to all others.

On the bike, made my bike absolutely smooth arround all rpm`s. i cant tell if its faster or not, becouse the acceleration is smooth and constant. But i find myself doing 90 or a 100 more often than with other maps i tried.

Geting arround 39.4 mpg driving it agresively and 85-90 mph is not a strange speed when possible.

For my bike, this is the one i ll probably be sticking with. Just becouse i like the constant smoothness that i feel. (or at least till i break down the 300 that my local dino wants for a custom map).

I did notice some of the numbers were higher than other maps, and makes me courious if the map goes too rich. *shrugs* it feels right tho !

it makes me smile btw


Update:

Took the secondary plats off... criscosumer map wasn`t as smooth anymore, switched dot crisco`s 7/18/07 map and runs again SUPER SMOOTH :)
 

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wow

i picked up my brand new left over 07 at the end of June. rode back and forth to work 3 times a week. i had the bike in the dealer service bay twice, because it ran like ass. stalling, idle osillation, hesitation and surging below 4000. i bought a PCIII, on recomendation of several members including Big-B, but hadn't installed it until i took the bike in for the 600. that was last weekend. i had them check the TBS while they were there and they told me that they were, in fact, in sync.

well, i installed the PCIII this weekend. i downloaded several of the maps from the other 'sticky' and decided to go with CriscoKid's. my bike is stock cans and stock air filter, but that map had made some adjustments to the FI at idle.

when i started the bike, the first think i noticed was that the idle had gone from 1100 to around 1250 or so. smooth. so i dawned my boots and grabbed my helmet and off i went.

glass smooth all the way up the rev range. i can even cruise at 3500 rpm without the bike doing the cha-cha underneath me.

so, thanks to all who posted maps, who recommended going with the PCIII, and for giving me the 3000rpm range back.

Paul.
 

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2002 DL1000 w/two bros and PCIII

I had installed the 2 bros cf on my '02 V-strom and all of a sudden had the "hiccups" between 3500-4000rpm. Bought a PCIII, downloaded a map
('02 with two bros and stock air cleaner) from the PC website. Bike runs much better now, seems to have fixed that problem. I haven't done a TBS but that will be next. It has about 14k on the odo.
 

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I just bought a '08 Vee. Exhaust note is a little anemic so am thinking of going with the Scorpion cans. I realize I'll need a remapping and am confused by whats out there. I need my fuel economy to stay over 40mpg . I do ride mostly in the mid range 3500 to 7000 rpms so don't need a big top end hit but low to mid range smooth is good. Can my stock box be adjusted or is there a set it and forget it type one that'll work for me? I'm not cheep I'm frugal, yeah that's it. I don't need the ultimate in tuneablity just want my Vee to sound better, run good and make it to the next gas station out in Eastern Oregon with some fuel to spare.
Thanks,
Mike M.
Creswell, Oregon
 

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Number/model on the ECU box for DL1000, 2004?

Hi,
Anyone that can tell the model number of the ECU box for DL1000, 2004. (My Cagiva has a DENSO 32920-02FNO (also 112100-0480, NE038) I am trying to figure out if a Power Commander for Suzuki DL 1000, 2004 can be used.

/Per
 

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Any reason I should get a PC?
I have a 2006 V-strom.
Previous owner put Leo Vince cans on it.
It runs fine, but on engine braking makes popping noises out the back.
Guess that means I'm running lean from the aftermarket cans.
The recent Dyno thread indicates that they come rich as hell (11.75:1 AFR) in stock setup, though, so maybe I'm not running lean at all.
It just doesn't really sound good.
I don't need any extra power.
Any point in getting a PCIII?
 
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Any reason I should get a PC?
I have a 2006 V-strom.
Previous owner put Leo Vince cans on it.
It runs fine, but on engine braking makes popping noises out the back.
Guess that means I'm running lean from the aftermarket cans.
The recent Dyno thread indicates that they come rich as hell (11.75:1 AFR) in stock setup, though, so maybe I'm not running lean at all.
It just doesn't really sound good.
I don't need any extra power.
Any point in getting a PCIII?
You need to look at that Dyno Map again, as there is a huge lean spot between 3700-5500 RPM...and the rest is OK.
A little rich is better than a little lean.

On your question, if you happy with the way your bike runs, don't buy a PCIII.

I'm just sayin...
BTD.
 

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You need to look at that Dyno Map again, as there is a huge lean spot between 3700-5500 RPM...and the rest is OK.
A little rich is better than a little lean.

On your question, if you happy with the way your bike runs, don't buy a PCIII.

I'm just sayin...
BTD.

While I agree that rich is better than lean, NOWHERE on that map is it running lean--it peaks at 14:1, which is still on the rich side. Actually, 14:1 is probably what I'd shoot for ideally to get a good balance of power and fuel economy.
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
Any reason I should get a PC?
I have a 2006 V-strom.
Previous owner put Leo Vince cans on it.
It runs fine, but on engine braking makes popping noises out the back.
Guess that means I'm running lean from the aftermarket cans.
The recent Dyno thread indicates that they come rich as hell (11.75:1 AFR) in stock setup, though, so maybe I'm not running lean at all.
It just doesn't really sound good.
I don't need any extra power.
Any point in getting a PCIII?
These bikes don't come rich from the factory, your bike is unique, something isn't right, or the dyno tuner is wrong.
 

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Check out this link, and look specifically under the AFR air to fuel ratio heading.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equivalence_ratio#Equivalence_ratio

BTD.
On the part about AFR: it says that the best power is between 12.5-13.3:1, and below that you just loose power and fuel economy. That's exactly what I've been saying, so I'm not sure what your point is.

Also, even if you were using gasoline with a whole lot of additives and octane boosters with a stoich of 14.1:1, the graph that other guy posted still does not show it running lean ANYWHERE.

On a final note, EGAs/sniffers wouldn't notice that anyway. Thay are designed to read the levels of O2 in the fuel, not the AFR - basically they only show the Lambda or Equivelence Ratio, and then they convert this into an AFR based on the 14.7 ratio usually used.

This is actually a better way of doing it, since there is a lot of variation in fuel. I had an AFR monitor I installed on my Ninja that would report the ratio as I was riding. If you were running at stoichiometric, it would show 14.7 regardless of the fuel- gasoline, methanol, ethanol, or any combination of them, even though you might actually be running at a ratio of 7:1 for alcohol fuels.
So, while the graph shows a highest AFR of 14:1 (slightly rich), and the link you posted indicated that the true stoich of modern gasolines can be 14.1:1, that doesn't mean the guy might be running at stoich--because even if his gas was one of those 14.1:1 fuels, the EGA would still report the stoichiometric ratio to be 14.7:1, since it reports any Lambda reading as 14.7.
 

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Will the PCIII solve the surges under 4,000 RPM on my 03 1K? The Dynojet site states that the PCIII EX cannot adjust the FI under 4,250 RPM...
What is the difference between the regular PCIII and the PCIII EX?
 

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Help quick

OK maybe I'm a dumbass but is there an easy way to get the electrical connector apart? I've tried pressing in on the little tabs while I pull but there are three tabs and I've only got two hands.

I finally got it and I'm getting ready to take her for a test run.
 

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Okay.....
I'm going to apologize in advance for being a huge dumbass, but I can't figure this out for the life of me.

I just got a PCIIIusb for a 2006 V-strom (which is what I have.)

I followed the instructions.
The PC3 has a 6- pin connector.
I don't have a 6-pin connector on my bike anywhere around...anything.

I tried twice. I searched every possible connection to find one that would fit, until it got dark.
The next day, when it was light again, my friend and I investigated again. We looked at the pictures in the manual. No cable connection where it should be.
We even removed the gas tank. I could not for the life of my find any connection that fit the PC3's cable.

Does anyone have any pictures of the connector? I can't believe it's this difficult. What am I missing? Help!
 

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Okay.....
I'm going to apologize in advance for being a huge dumbass, but I can't figure this out for the life of me.

I just got a PCIIIusb for a 2006 V-strom (which is what I have.)

I followed the instructions.
The PC3 has a 6- pin connector.
I don't have a 6-pin connector on my bike anywhere around...anything.

I tried twice. I searched every possible connection to find one that would fit, until it got dark.
The next day, when it was light again, my friend and I investigated again. We looked at the pictures in the manual. No cable connection where it should be.
We even removed the gas tank. I could not for the life of my find any connection that fit the PC3's cable.

Does anyone have any pictures of the connector? I can't believe it's this difficult. What am I missing? Help!
it's not an open connector. it's the connector between the ECU and the injectors. it's a white plug tucked under the gas tank. you take it apart and plug the PCIII in between.

P.
 

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I've got a setup from FuelMoto for my '06.

Akro's (run them with and without the baffles depending on who's with me)
K&N
PCIII Race (I guess there's a difference, this one has full range of adjustment available)

I've never adjusted anything, installed as it came from FuelMoto. Runs glass smooth. Sounds amazing with or without the baffles. Fuel mileage? Somewhere between 30 and 40 mpg I guess. At 200 miles I look for a gas station and the most I've ever put in the tank was 5.4 gallons (see pic).



If anyone needs, I'll download the map and upload it here.
 

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PC111 mounting location

I am completely clueless on the PC111 but there is one on the 06 I bought a while back, so I have to deal with the thing. It is in the way. I want to ziptie it to the rubber battery holddown strap and am wondering if that is a nono cause of some sort of electrical interference or something else weird. I am also thinking about sticking it under the gas tank rear in the vicinity of the rear cylinder rear plug, on top of a thin pad of some sort, and securing it there, sort of.
Well, what do you think?

Joe, still recovering from highside
06 1000 "Bruiser"
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
I am completely clueless on the PC111 but there is one on the 06 I bought a while back, so I have to deal with the thing. It is in the way. I want to ziptie it to the rubber battery holddown strap and am wondering if that is a nono cause of some sort of electrical interference or something else weird. I am also thinking about sticking it under the gas tank rear in the vicinity of the rear cylinder rear plug, on top of a thin pad of some sort, and securing it there, sort of.
Well, what do you think?

Joe, still recovering from highside
06 1000 "Bruiser"
Shouldn't be in the way at all, it is supossed to be mounted just below where the tool case is secured. Or.....you could actually move it back to where the tool case straps. Sounds like you might need a top case, tail bag, tank bag, side cases or something of the sorts. I don't keep anything below my seat, just don't see any need in it. Needs to be mounted with industrial strength velcro, wouldn't really trust doing it any other way. The PCIII is an amazing unit, once you understand it and are running the right map.....you'll love it!!!

Brian
 
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