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2013 dl 650 runs good, good mpg. Has anyone experienced a gain in performance and thinks it's worth the cost?
 

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Someone gave me a PCV as a gift recently. Not planning on using the Autotune but instead I will be doing a couple maps on a Dyno. One map for MPG and one map for performance. Most likely wire it thru the flasher switch. One for highway and one for the twisties.
 

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Before you step up to the PC-V you should switch out the muffler. The stock muffler has the catalitic converter inside of it. Increasing the fuel to improve engine performance will likely overheat and melt down the converter matrix.
There is a fine line for the amount of fuel it can process and "convert". A overworked Cat. (too much unburnt fuel) can and usually does plug the exhaust. Ask any muffler shop on this one. They will show you examples from the "Shelf of Shame". You can also look on the internet for some real eye popping photos.
 

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That's a lot of money for a performance change that would be so small only a dyno would show the difference. Any difference is most likely going to only affect the wallet in initial price and at the fuel pump. I've never heard of a catalytic converted problem from a fuel map change on a V-Strom. I get the theory but it just doesn't happen.
 

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If you have money to burn and like tinkering with it, I say go for it. There is issues with the O2 optimizer I hear. Trips FI codes.

But like they said get rid of the stock muffler too. Now you are up to around $1200 spent for maybe 3-4 hp.
 

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If you have money to burn and like tinkering with it, I say go for it. There is issues with the O2 optimizer I hear. Trips FI codes..
I bought a used 2012 that came with an acropovic exhaust, k&n air filter and PCV. I am having the o2 optimizer issue. The pcv manual says that the green LED light on the o2 optimizer will blink while the o2 sensor is warming up and then turn to a solid green when the o2 optimizer is "working". Mine blinks indefinitely and always trips the FI code c44- heated o2 sensor. It is the only issue I have with my bike and it is annoying as hell. When the FI light is on, it locks out the dashboard menus so you can't cycle through trip meters, clock MPG etc. I am so sick of looking at that red FI light.

I hope I can figure this issue out soon. If anybody has any solution, please let me know. My advice to the OP is to stay away from the PCV. If my bike hadn't come with the exhaust, air filter and PCV, I would never have put money into those mods. The money is better spent on riding gear and trips in my opinion.
 

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If you read the last page of the PC5 manual it says to input 8 into the offsets into the fuel map (tuning notes). Did you try that?

I'd re check the optimizers connection inline of the Oxygen sensor, maybe it's bad or non existent? :confused:
 

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I saw the section of the manual that said to input 8s. I uploaded each of the dynojet fuel maps, including the stock map that had all 8s in the necessary sections. It didn't change anything for me.

The o2 optimizer is definitely plugged in line to the o2 sensor. I disconnected it and the only difference is when I start the bike, the FI light comes on immediately instead of appearing after a minute or two like it does when it is plugged in.

There is one more piece of information that may or may not be relevant. The bike had been sitting from September to March and I have no idea if the original owner put stabilizer in the fuel. I took the bike for a ride last weekend and the FI light was always on. At the end of my ride, I stopped for fuel and put in about 2.5 gallons of fresh gas. Interestingly enough, when I started the bike and drove 15 minutes home, the FI light never came on. After I arrived home and the bike had been sitting for about an hour, I started it again and the FI light came back on within a minute or two.

Is it possible that the old gas is causing the o2 sensor error? My plan is to ride the bike until the current full tank (50% old gas, 50% new gas) until it is nearly empty, then fill with all fresh gas. Maybe it'll resolve itself...
 

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I'd try unplugging the O2 optimizer and see if the FI code goes away. If not I'd say you have a bad O2 sensor. Heater could be open or shorted or just a bad O2 sensor.
 

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I'd try unplugging the O2 optimizer and see if the FI code goes away. If not I'd say you have a bad O2 sensor. Heater could be open or shorted or just a bad O2 sensor.
Do you mean unplug the o2 optimizer and plug the o2 sensor back into its original connector?

That is the one scenario I have not tried and wish I had while I had the side panel off... My big hands don't fit down there easily.

Forgive my ignorance...I've always had carburetted bikes until very recently.

If the o2 sensor is plugged into its original connector, will the power commander be overridden within the "closed loop"?
 

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Yes.

C44 is from:

C44/C0130
After engine is started few minutes.
(Sensor voltage ≥ 2.5 V)
Engine is cold and stopped.
(Sensor output voltage < 0.1 V)
In other than the above value, C44
(P0130) is indicated.
• HO2 sensor circuit open or shorted to ground.
• Fuel system malfunction.
• ECM malfunction.

C44/P0135
The heater can not operate so that heater
operation voltage is not supply to the
oxygen heater circuit.
• Battery voltage supply to the HO2 sensor

I wouldn't worry about the PC5 since it won't work with the C44 code anyway. The optimizer seems to be for low throttle positions where you spend most of the time. EPA had it's hand in it I'm sure.
 

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I disconnected the o2 optimizer and plugged the o2 sensor back into its original plug. It solved the problem. I rode for 40 miles without the fault indicator ever coming on. Obviously the o2 optimizer not working correctly. I'll see if dynojet will send me a replacement but in the meanwhile the bike runs fine as is.
 

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:thumbup:

Hopefully they will help you out. Sure sounds like the O2 optimizer is the problem. Not quite sure what the hell it does, they should tell you. Looks like it keeps the AF ratio at 13.6 to 1 in the lower throttle openings.
 
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